Hate putting air in rear tire.....Hate it.

[gkamer]

I took mine to work the other day and was checking the air in the tires and filled the fronts .. went to the rear and could not even find the valve stem. Shrugged and drove it anyway. Will probably have to locate it sooner or later.

I dabbed a little bit of yellow paint in the wheel (rim) right next to the valve stem. So I just roll my RT till the yellow dot is in the right position. A lot easier for my tired old eyes to spot the yellow dot then the black valve stem.

 

[gkamer]

all i can ''now'' say on this subject is my knees and back thank me for FOBO.

now life is easy,,,, real easy, just open the app

This is if you can get FOBO and air pressure gauge to agree on the same psi.

 

[Isopedella]

Try 90, hurts worse than that.

Totally awesome. 90 and still going at it. :clap: :bowdown:

I will make a point of recalling that next time I cant get into a comfortable position when wrenching and stuff.
Ha I considered removing the Frunk lid yesterday when I replaced that battery..Heavy little puppies at arms length these-days.

 

[2dogs]

This is if you can get FOBO and air pressure gauge to agree on the same psi.

Ha! If you think that's tuff just try and get two people here to agree on the same PSI.:roflblack:

 

[Adventurer]

This is if you can get FOBO and air pressure gauge to agree on the same psi.

Guess I'm lucky. Just added air to my two front tires last week and FOBO and my gauge were within two tenths of a pound with each other...I can live with that. I have the type of gauge that I can overfill and bleed down to my desired pressure. Some or all of the .2 difference may be from air loss when disconnecting the chuck and reinstalling the FOBO.

 

[Peteoz]

Guess I'm lucky. Just added air to my two front tires last week and FOBO and my gauge were within two tenths of a pound with each other...I can live with that. I have the type of gauge that I can overfill and bleed down to my desired pressure. Some or all of the .2 difference may be from air loss when disconnecting the chuck and reinstalling the FOBO.

Yep, I preset my pump to 18psi, then pop on the FOBO cap (I have learnt how to do it only losing a minute amount of air), and FOBO shows within .2, same as you, Adventurer. That’s certainly close enough for me:2thumbs:

Pete

 

[SLICE]

This is if you can get FOBO and air pressure gauge to agree on the same psi.

Funny you should mention that as I have to check my PSI between 3-4am, Once the sun comes up and starts to warm the car port tire PSI can be off by 2.5 pounds between L-R tires. The rear stays pretty consistent and as I drive in the Florida heat the tires are up to normal PSI within 5 miles.

 

[2dogs]

I'm making a three line octopus to fill/adjust all three tires' PSI simultaneously. I don't have to get down on my hands and knees. A plastic bucket to sit on is as close to the ground as I get. A dual tire air extension is what I use on the rear tire. It has the perfect angle to it for that dam rear valve stem. I run 17/18 PSI all the way around. If I lose a 1/2 or 1 PSI when I disconnect and then connect the FOBO I don't care, because the spyder doesn't care. Ambient temps change the PSI more than that anyway.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Funny you should mention that as I have to check my PSI between 3-4am, Once the sun comes up and starts to warm the car port tire PSI can be off by 2.5 pounds between L-R tires. The rear stays pretty consistent and as I drive in the Florida heat the tires are up to normal PSI within 5 miles.

Even with the dodgy OEM Kendas, unless you're already up & about that early & really want to roll around on the ground checking your tire pressures then, you really don't need to worry that much! :lecturef_smilie:

If it's only that 2-2.5 psi sort of difference & it's clearly the sun warmed side that's the higher pressure, you don't really need to worry about it too much cos you'll ride it out in about 5 mins or so, & if they were even in pressure when you parked it last night, then there's a pretty good chance they'll be even again, once they get up to temp.... and if they aren't, then there's a very good chance you'll notice that one tire has probably struck a leak as you ride off slowly/carefully!! :shocked:

Besides, you probably should be being riding juuust a little carefully for about 5 mins or so after starting off from cold anyway, just to make sure that your tires are at least getting up a bit in temp from their o/night 'cold' pressure and are warming to be a little closer to their optimum operating temp. :thumbup:

 

[K80Shooter]

I'm making a three line octopus to fill/adjust all three tires' PSI simultaneously. I don't have to get down on my hands and knees. A plastic bucket to sit on is as close to the ground as I get. A dual tire air extension is what I use on the rear tire. It has the perfect angle to it for that dam rear valve stem. I run 17/18 PSI all the way around. If I lose a 1/2 or 1 PSI when I disconnect and then connect the FOBO I don't care, because the spyder doesn't care. Ambient temps change the PSI more than that anyway.

You might want to look at something like this, https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-3-Way-1-4-Air-Manifold-with-Quick-Connect-Couplers/348745610 and replace the inlet nipple with a valve stem, then gets the hose's that you need and have at it.
Be forewarned that once you hook up the hose's to all of the tires, you will need to let the pressure equalize before making adjustments.

I didn't use this manifold but a straight one. I also added a tee to the inlet side and a air gauge along with the valve stem. Mine turned into a 4 hose octopus to use with all of my vehicles.

 

[2dogs]

You might want to look at something like this, https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-3-Way-1-4-Air-Manifold-with-Quick-Connect-Couplers/348745610 and replace the inlet nipple with a valve stem, then gets the hose's that you need and have at it.
Be forewarned that once you hook up the hose's to all of the tires, you will need to let the pressure equalize before making adjustments.

I didn't use this manifold but a straight one. I also added a tee to the inlet side and a air gauge along with the valve stem. Mine turned into a 4 hose octopus to use with all of my vehicles.

Hey, great post. Thanks for the info. With minimal research it's just about a push with the cost of all the other fittings needed to complete the build. A two way octopus is fairly simple but going to a three or four way gets a bit more costly and complicated. I'm using all small brass fittings but I'm definitely saving your link in case my plan goes south on me.

 

[Isopedella]

WELL STAND BY ...

AS......

HERE IS THE ANSWER.......


FIT ONE OF THESE.



:clap:

Thinking remove the mount and double side Velcro the screen somewhere out of the weather.

 

[Peteoz]

Yeah, that’s certainly MY answer, ISO:thumbup:. I had to put some air in my rear tyre today (for the first time in 2.5 months) as FOBO showed the tyre has moved from 18psi down to 17psi. (My low pressure alarm is set to 16psi). That’s the first time I have had to physically access the tyre valve in that time……now if only I could somehow attach a miniature pump to each FOBO reader to get them to automatically add air when the pressure drops.hyea:

Pete

 

[SLICE]

Even with the dodgy OEM Kendas, unless you're already up & about that early & really want to roll around on the ground checking your tire pressures then, you really don't need to worry that much! :lecturef_smilie:

If it's only that 2-2.5 psi sort of difference & it's clearly the sun warmed side that's the higher pressure, you don't really need to worry about it too much cos you'll ride it out in about 5 mins or so, & if they were even in pressure when you parked it last night, then there's a pretty good chance they'll be even again, once they get up to temp.... and if they aren't, then there's a very good chance you'll notice that one tire has probably struck a leak as you ride off slowly/carefully!! :shocked:

Besides, you probably should be being riding juuust a little carefully for about 5 mins or so after starting off from cold anyway, just to make sure that your tires are at least getting up a bit in temp from their o/night 'cold' pressure and are warming to be a little closer to their optimum operating temp. :thumbup:

As for me being awake and up and about, I don't sleep much 2.5-3 hours max.

As a child 2- 10 years old mom would catch me looking out the window at all hours of the night/morning. I get tired of sleeping so I just get up and get my day started.

But yeah I don't worry about 2-2.5 pounds as the the tires quickly heat up and i have normal pressures in a few miles.

 

[Baveux]

Oh yeah, the knee thing. I wear knee pads, have the wife watch as I move machine until the valve is in the proper position, then get it done. It's all about adapting to the situation. I find there's very little change from one month to the next, so it is not a big problem, just an irritation, but the world is full of irritations. :>)

What is the proper position for the valve on an RT?

 

[Peter Aawen]

What is the proper position for the valve on an RT?

Anywhere you can see it & reach it! :thumbup:

For most, that's often when the tire adjacent the valve is just starting to come up off the ground as you gently roll your Spyder forward; so the valve isn't obscured by the lower part of belt as it leads back to the rear pulley from the front pulley, and it's not yet high enough off the ground to become obscured by the tupperware &/or panniers. :2thumbs:

The valve needs to be about mid-Way up in that rear/lower quarter of the wheel; and if it's obscured by/hidden behind one of the radial shafts on your drive sprocket rather than just the circumferential teeth/cogs of the drive sprocket, then, there's a good chance that someone's put that sprocket back on the wheel dialed incorrectly after removing it for a tire change! :lecturef_smilie: Easy enough to do, just impossible to fix without removing the rear wheel again and dialing it & the cush drive rubber wedges in properly! :banghead:

 

[Baveux]

Anywhere you can see it & reach it! :thumbup:

For most, that's often when the tire adjacent the valve is just starting to come up off the ground as you gently roll your Spyder forward; so the valve isn't obscured by the lower part of belt as it leads back to the rear pulley from the front pulley, and it's not yet high enough off the ground to become obscured by the tupperware &/or panniers. :2thumbs:

The valve needs to be about mid-Way up in that rear/lower quarter of the wheel; and if it's obscured by/hidden behind one of the radial shafts on your drive sprocket rather than just the circumferential teeth/cogs of the drive sprocket, then, there's a good chance that someone's put that sprocket back on the wheel dialed incorrectly after removing it for a tire change! :lecturef_smilie: Easy enough to do, just impossible to fix without removing the rear wheel again and dialing it & the cush drive rubber wedges in properly! :banghead:

Thanks Ill take a look later on today ....I love engineers ...

 

[stillriding]

What is the proper position for the valve on an RT?

The four-o-clock position works for me.

 

[Baveux]

Believe me or not... the valve is right there - at 4 O'clock!!! What a driver I am!!

 

[Allen42]

I do not find that my pressure changes that much, not enough to check it every time I ride!!:dontknow: I look at them every ride, but check when I change oil!

Same. I have the FOBO system, and my tire pressure has not changed more than .5 since I bought the bike several months ago. (Well technically since I changed the back tire)