Hate putting air in rear tire.....Hate it.

[newbert]

Hey Motogordo,

I installed this: https://www.lamonstergarage.com/fobo-bike-2-for-trikes-set-of-3-lamonster/ on my 2021 RT Limited and it's great. I can see my tire pressures anytime I want. It has alerts built in to warn me if any of the tires get low. I'm super happy with it.

Best of luck!!

1+ on the Jaco, here's a link, money well spent, should have purchased one years ago.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C25C4CQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Al in Kazoo

From my experience the FOBO system is great ...... when it works, which is unfortunately sporadically. Great idea, but not worth the headache in my opinion. I just put new batteries in my 2 year old sensors and the sensors are "undetectable"....I give up!

I think that I'll try the Jaco with a 90 degree extender for the rear tire. Are those extenders available at BICYCLE shops or at MOTORCYCLE shops? (What was meant by "Bike" shops?)

 

[Briorick]

1+ on the Jaco, here's a link, money well spent, should have purchased one years ago.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C25C4CQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Al in Kazoo

:agree: Received mine in the mail today. So out to the garage I went. Checked the Spyder, the Riding Mower and the 2 wheel bikes. Love this item. Makes airing that rear tire a breeze now, other than getting down on the floor. :roflblack: You're right, I should have bought one of these years ago. Thanks for the link!

 

[cruisinTX]

From my experience the FOBO system is great ...... when it works, which is unfortunately sporadically. Great idea, but not worth the headache in my opinion. I just put new batteries in my 2 year old sensors and the sensors are "undetectable"....I give up!

I think that I'll try the Jaco with a 90 degree extender for the rear tire. Are those extenders available at BICYCLE shops or at MOTORCYCLE shops? (What was meant by "Bike" shops?)

90° extension. most good bicycle shops carry them. I used a wrap of Teflon plumbing tape to make sure there would be minimal leakage through the threads. Has worked fine since installation.

. . . . .

 

[Motogordo]

I thought about doing that also. I had two sets of ramps and sold both of them figuring I wasn't going to buy another cycle. Surprise....LOL

 

[cruisinTX]

I thought about doing that also. I had two sets of ramps and sold both of them figuring I wasn't going to buy another cycle. Surprise....LOL

. . . . . . :hun:

 

[DaniBoy]

Agree, getting to that rear tire valve is a bear no matter what tire inflation device you use. BRP sure wasn't thinking of the 'senior' rider on this one. Would a 90 degree valve stem have been helpful, of course, wonder why those m/c tire 'engineers' didn't think of that? It is what it is, so we adapt, much like many other situations in our society that's difficult and shouldn't be.

You mean like this?

ILOVA 90 Degree Tyre Valve Extension Adaptor for Car Motorcycle Bike Scooter 2 Pack Universal Extenders https://a.co/d/5w0p7FX

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

You mean like this?

ILOVA 90 Degree Tyre Valve Extension Adaptor for Car Motorcycle Bike Scooter 2 Pack Universal Extenders https://a.co/d/5w0p7FX

I have looked at those and others ( from Kurvey girl ) ..... I honestly don't see how adding this to REAR wheel OEM valve stem solves the access issue. ..... Back in 2010 at my first rear tire change on my GS, ( to a car tire ) I decided to Improve the rear valve access. .... So after dis-mounting the rear tire I Drilled a new whole in the center of the rear wheel and put in one from Kurvey Girl....( an 87 degree motorcycle valve ) .... I positioned the stem towards the Disc side of the wheel ..... This is improved access tremendously ..... Yes you have to be careful of a Hot tailpipe, but it's not Rocket science ..... JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[gkamer]

I have poor contrast vision. Which means it's hard for me to pick out a dark object from an equally dark background. So it's sometimes difficult for me to spot where/when the rear tire valve stem is in the right position to get to. So I used some yellow paint and painted a thin line on the inside of the wheel directly in line with the valve stem. It's much easier for me to see the bright yellow against the dark background. At least it works for me.

As a side note I also ordered the JACO Air Pro digital pressure. I just wish there was some way to connect it directly to a portable air compressor so I could check, add and bleed air as needed all in one step.

 

[gkamer]

I was going to add a better set of pictures to my previous post, but the page said I didn't have permission to do that. So, here is a collage of two shots. One from sort of behind and above as you might see as you approach from behind to check pressure. The other from almost directly above the stem. There is about a half inch clearance between the stem and the drive pulley. I've had it this way for about 3.5 years and 7500 miles. It loses maybe 1 or 2psi per month mostly in the winter, so pretty similar to all of my cars and bikes.

I ordered some of these off Amazon. I think they are a good solution to the problem.

 

[Peteoz]

I have poor contrast vision. Which means it's hard for me to pick out a dark object from an equally dark background. So it's sometimes difficult for me to spot where/when the rear tire valve stem is in the right position to get to. So I used some yellow paint and painted a thin line on the inside of the wheel directly in line with the valve stem. It's much easier for me to see the bright yellow against the dark background. At least it works for me.

As a side note I also ordered the JACO Air Pro digital pressure. I just wish there was some way to connect it directly to a portable air compressor so I could check, add and bleed air as needed all in one step.

I have eliminated some of the issues with FOBO and a battery operated preset pump, Greg. Doesn’t solve “contrast vision”, but you have addressed that anyway.

FOBO means I only have to get at the valve when the pressure is showing as being down, and the preset PSI means I only have to remove FOBO, which I can do from a stool, fasten pump, press go, remove pump, reinstall KOBO. Getting the valve stem to 4 0’clock or so is still the most time consuming part of the process. Sure FOBO may not be super accurate, but I can live with being out one psi or so (that is the max difference that has shown when some mates have tested with their digital gauges).

Pete

 

[2dogs]

This has been posted many times but I'll put it up once more. This is the proper air chuck that has the correct angle to inflate the rear tire of the difficult to access rear tire valve stem.

https://www.acehardware.com/departm...VhAh9Ch1LNQcqEAQYISABEgLmnvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

There are many brands of this chuck available for purchase. You can purchase it as a stand alone item or with a gauge, whichever you choose. ALL gauges vary in pressure reading by 2,3 and as much as 5 psi. Obviously the more you pay for a gauge the more accurate and reliable it should be. But, that is not always the case. Together the wear pattern of your tire's tread and the tire's performance will give you an indication of the proper psi you should be using. Adjusting for driver/passenger weight and desired performance the general consensus, using car tires, is around 17 to 20 psi, whichever you choose. As far as I know, the problem of standing on your head in order to air up your rear tire can only be solved with a very expensive motorcycle lift. Here's wishing you good luck with that dam difficult valve stem.

 

[SLICE]

For what it's worth, I find checking the pressure on the rear tire of my RT to be a breeze compared to the RoadGlide I used to own. Between saddlebags, fender, shocks, exhaust pipes and the position of the tire valve in the wheel, nothing about it was easy. Always ended up on the floor to actually reach the valve, and many times had to roll the bike around just to find the valve stem.

i use to put my RoadGlide on the lift to check tire pressure, as you said it was a PITA

 

[Gwolf]

I have 2 other large air compressors in my shop, but hardly ever use them to air up tires. Got a small 115 volt compressor that has the air gauge right there on the top of the compressor. Weighs maybe 5 pounds and has a carrying handle on top. I put a short hose on it, with a clip on connector for the valve stem. On the Spyder, I can just roll up side of it with one of the shop stools, clip the hose on, the use the switch on the small compressor to stop it when the air pressure is correct. Un-clip the hose and no need to do any checking with unreliable air gauges. Since getting the small compressor, I have started using it to air up the mower tires, truck tires, and tires on anything that comes up to the shop. Easiest job ever with the right equipment. No putting in air and then losing some trying to check how much you got. Clip it on, pump it up,by the gauge, and cut the compressor off. Best of all there is no dragging 50 feet of coiled up air hose out. All I need is a short extension cord to get the air to the job.

 

[UtahPete]

I haven't found any compressors with built-in gauges that are accurate enough in the low pressure range for airing up Spyder tires.

That includes pancake compressors and battery-powered Ryobis.

 

[2dogs]

The only ones I know of are the small battery powered ones the size of a handheld drill, and their psi readings can vary a little to a lot. I found a small angled digital gauge that reads out at .5 psi increments. This is my go to tire pressure gauge for my spyder. Just how precisely accurate it is, hell I don't exactly know. But, it's close and easy to use. I start by overfilling first and then let out air until everything is evenly pressured.

 

[K80Shooter]

Honestly, I don't have any problem checking/adding air in my rear tire, but I can still get up and down pretty easy.

 

[Peteoz]

Honestly, I don't have any problem checking/adding air in my rear tire, but I can still get up and down pretty easy.

Yes, it’s those last 10 words that make the difference, K80. I had no real issues accessing the rear valve when I first moved to Spyders in 2016, but as the knees degenerate, it becomes a right pain.:gaah:

Pere

 

[2dogs]

Yes, it’s those last 10 words that make the difference, K80. I had no real issues accessing the rear valve when I first moved to Spyders in 2016, but as the knees degenerate, it becomes a right pain.:gaah:

Pere

I must admit Pere, I know exactly what you mean. I preset objects in my work area which makes crawling around and getting up off the floor much less troublesome. I start out with a plush throw rug and then to work my way upright I use a small stool and so on that will make the process easier. Also, a warm cup of coffee and a clean warm place to work helps a lot. I make sure all the tools and parts I need are placed on the floor and accessible. The hell of it is that I always forget something and I still have to get up and down a half dozen times more than I'd planned on. Good luck down under.

 

[Peteoz]

I must admit Pere, I know exactly what you mean. I preset objects in my work area which makes crawling around and getting up off the floor much less troublesome. I start out with a plush throw rug and then to work my way upright I use a small stool and so on that will make the process easier. Also, a warm cup of coffee and a clean warm place to work helps a lot. I make sure all the tools and parts I need are placed on the floor and accessible. The hell of it is that I always forget something and I still have to get up and down a half dozen times more than I'd planned on. Good luck down under.

Thanks 2dogs……yep, that’s nearly exactly my routine too…….and just like you, I get the knee pad, stool and chair ready, along with all the tools down on the ground where I’m working…….except for the ones I invariably forget about.:2thumbs: …….. aaaaaargh.

I might have a go at rear wheel removal myself soon (did it on the 16 F3-L) as I can’t find anyone to remove the wheel and replace the tyre with aftermarket, and I really don’t like having the stock Kenda on there. However, I will make sure I am doing it while my official “forgotten tool” fetcher is at home:yes: ….. having said that though, I may decide it is simply too hard these days, and get my trusted Spyder tech to replace the Kenda with a Kenda Kanine, which are certainly better than stock.

Pete

 

[2dogs]

I have my new rear tire sitting right next to my RT. I think I'll take my ride to the dealership and have them replace the rear tire. If I know myself, I'd do something stupid and put myself out of commission for several months. It just ain't worth it these days.