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There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Guess What Caused thiis Shifting Malfunction?
- Thread starter ulflyer
- Start date
2 Cruysyn
New member
2 Cruysyn: you sent me a link but I can't get it to read. If you will, please resend it.
Thanks
I pulled my post because the more I looked the more I convinced myself I may have been barking up the wrong tree. Here's the illustration and the photo. If you're going to pull the plastic you may as well check all the vacuum lines while you're in there.
If you mess with the MAPS lines the replacements should be the same lengths as the lines you remove. They are 85mm long according to the Service Manual. Also "Tube length is calibrated and should not be tampered with. If otherwise, the engine may be improperly calibrated."
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ulflyer
Active member
No wonder I couldn't find it on my svc CD....thought it would be down around the transmission somewhere.
I've made a copy of the pic and will confirm with the mechanic next time i go to the shop, but it looks like what he replaced. Thanks a lot for the pic.
ulflyer
Active member
Wheres the "other" vacuum line/s?
Pulled the left side plastic and the left side black cover underneath (2 screws) to get at the offending vac line shown in the above picture kindly supplied by 2 Cruysyn . That line is exactly 8.5mm long (about 3 1/2 in) and mine was flexible with no signs of cracking.
Other threads have referred to two or more vac lines but I couldnt find any in that same general area.
Can someone point me to the "other/s" while I still have the plactic off?
Pulled the left side plastic and the left side black cover underneath (2 screws) to get at the offending vac line shown in the above picture kindly supplied by 2 Cruysyn . That line is exactly 8.5mm long (about 3 1/2 in) and mine was flexible with no signs of cracking.
Other threads have referred to two or more vac lines but I couldnt find any in that same general area.
Can someone point me to the "other/s" while I still have the plactic off?
2 Cruysyn
New member
The other line I would think should be in a similar location on the other (forward) throttle, for lack of a better word. They should both be attached to the MAPS so find the other one and trace it back, or forward in this case.
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ulflyer
Active member
Once again you're right on the money; gotta pull some of the wiring and stuff to the side just a bit and with a light you can barely see the forward hose. Theres just enuf room to squeeze the hand around in front and you can feel it. Mine was still good so I left it alone but put the NAPA spares in the tool kit in case.
The NAPA appears to be about the same ID but the OD is smaller. Personally, I'd feel better, given a choice, with a hose that is a bit larger OD. FWIW, I asked NAPA about the silicone hose and it only comes in a 6 ft roll for about $12. Their rubber hose cost $.52 tax incl. per foot.
For those who haven't checked theirs yet, you need to pull the left RW mirrow, deflector underneath, both outter plastic panels and a black panel that covers the top end of the motor where the vac hoses are located. Really not as bad as it sounds.
Marker
New member
Moral of the story...
"Always carry a roll of duct-tape with you".
It has been known to bring a trio of astronauts home...
Never go on a trip with out it. It helped us out numerous times when we snowmobiled:thumbup:
MikeinGA
New member
I had problem like this and it was caused by a bad map sensor. It showed up when the tech hookup my 2011 RS-S to BUDS computer. After installing a new sensor it ran like new.
Mike
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