Woodenfish
Member
That post wasn't having a go at you Cirhere, just responding to Ron's post above it.
But there is a lot of discussion about the inherently inaccurate gas gauges here on the Forum, some with diagrams and pics of the odd tank shape that contributes so much to the issue, AND ALSO that makes it so bloody hard to properly fill your tank! :gaah:
But as rjinaz mentions above, as with many fuel injected engines these days, the fuel pump (& sender) are immersed in the gas tank, and both the pump and the entire fuel injection system use the gas remaining in the tank as both coolant and lubricant for their extremely fine tolerance components, so you MUST leave enough gas in the tank to keep it all lubricated AND to sufficiently disperse the heat these high speed/high pressure fine tolerance & often PLASTIC components run at!! If you don't, you WILL be damaging those very important components! The bits that make them work & keep your engine running as powerfully and as economically as they can are often running so close together that even just a single molecule of water between them can be too big for them to handle without damage; but luckily that won't cause instant destruction &/or stoppage, or probably more correctly, UNluckily, cos if you try to compress tiny molecules of water under high pressure when there's enough heat around, they'll instantly flash to superheated steam that'll instantly melt any high quality steel the superheated steam comes into contact with, so you can imagine the damage that'll do to plastic!! And while that damage might not cause instant stoppage cos it's microscopic to start with, every time that tiny bit of damage rotates past its opposite component, usually in a marginally different place to the last time it went round, where it'll create even more damage, damage that only grows and ultimately destroys these very critical parts of your bike! :yikes:
So there's really no solution that anyone but BRP/Can-Am could apply to this issue, but even if they did, it wouldn't ever be back-dated even if it was applicable to the earlier models; and the only safe 'fix' is to NEVER RELY on your gas gauge, cos it's inherently inaccurate & unreliable due to the shape of the tank and the design of the fuel pump & sender! :gaah:
Bugga! There's ANOTHER 'never'!! :banghead:
The “lubricity” of gasoline is practically nil. There is no barrier film protection provided by the gasoline to protect against any mechanical wear. Gasoline as a coolant for the pump is a rather dubious statement. When the engine depletes the fuel it and the pump shut off. The operating temperature of the in tank fuel pump is very low and insignificant to create any meltdown of any part. If true, the motorcycle would explode.
I have never seen one of these Spyder fuel tanks, it’s pump or the sending unit to make an accurate statement about its design and limitations. Filling the gas tank with the station pump nozzle is a difficult task with the design of the filler neck and its safety device used in my local area. The fuel gauge seems to read accurately after filling it up in my experience. The distance to empty is a scientific wild ass guess factored by a scientist who evidently got a D in class. Based on my own usage the gauge is at best a suggestion if making repeated regular short trips. I have not had the opportunity yet to make a trip long enough that I needed to stop and refill from total depletion so I don’t know how the fuel gauge performs on a lengthy trip compared to regular commuting. My best advice is for each to learn over time what to expect as it may differ from others use.
