FZ-1 Fuse Block

[ChazChuk24]

I have read a lot of threads on here about installing an auxiliary fuse block and maybe I have overlooked it.....but where do you pull the main power for the aux. fuse block from. I'm assuming that the power comes from a wire ran all the way back to the battery or am I way off base?
Thanks,
Chuck

 

[Kmort44]

Have one myself

I have read a lot of threads on here about installing an auxiliary fuse block and maybe I have overlooked it.....but where do you pull the main power for the aux. fuse block from. I'm assuming that the power comes from a wire ran all the way back to the battery or am I way off base?
Thanks,
Chuck

You are absolutely correct! Don't forget to use a inline fuse placed as close to the battery as possible in case of a short. Also remember if you mount it up front when running the wire back to the battery its best to use some plenum split loom to protect the wire from high temps. Good luck it sure makes wiring accessories easier in the future.

 

[ChazChuk24]

Thanks for the replays guys I appreciate the quick response...and the info provided will be very useful. Is it safe to assume that the FZ-1 fuse block is the best block that can be purchased for this application? Also what size wire should be used between the fuse block and the battery? Is the wire sized based on the amperage of the battery?
Thanks in advance,
Chuck

 

[eddieshep999]

I have fitted the fz1 fuse block to my 2010 RT SE5 and it is excellent see this link

My post is at #22

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...u-identify-these-brackets&p=366988#post366988

If you go to their website they do have a Q and A Section which should answer most of your questions see this link also

http://www.fuzeblocks.com/

Hope these help you

 

[NancysToy]

The FZ-1 also has a built in relay that can activate any of the circuits that are switched on by the key.
You choose either constant on or key on by placement of the fuse.
Finding a wire to control this relay can be a bit challenging.

On 2011 and later RT the Spyder doesn't power down the Load Shedding Relay for about 40 minutes so if you use a wire from that circuit your accessory plug will be hot for that long.

If you want to locate the FZ-1 in the front you can use the light power at the gauge pod (Orange/Red)

For back locations you can use the Gray/Green wire at the heated grips.

Both of these wires are fused and the low current draw of the relay doesn't affect their primary operation.

The above info pertains to the RT.
View attachment 65820

The load-shedding relay powers down in about 15 seconds. You must be thinking about the throttle body being held closed for 40 minutes after shutdown. Not related.

 

[NancysToy]

Well Scotty I recently installed the FZ-1 on Mrfat's Spyder.
I took the the power for the key off from F8 with a piggyback.
The power remained on for 40 minutes.

Yours must be different than mine both have been...or else the latest update, which I haven't had installed yet, changed things. Mine, with an Eastern Beaver 3CS, shuts off after about 15 seconds...the lights go off and the display goes dark in 15 seconds too. Are you sure there isn't an additional off-delay relay on the fuse block?

 

[mrfats]

No Scotty I'm not sure about that and that's a good point.
Mrfats Spyder is a 2011.
I made up the wiring harness and piggyback and tried it on my 2010 and checked the power coming off the piggy back. It switched off in sync with the key.

When I put it on the 2011 the power remained on.
I can't check this out until we go to Spyderfest, but the info about taking the key on/key off from the gauges remains accurate.

You experts can definitely check it out in a little over 2 weeks!!