• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

FOR A 2017 SPYDER RT SE6, COLD WEATHER STARTING BELOW 40 DEGREES F

I am surprised you're having trouble. 30 degrees isn't all that cold.
Me too.
It might mean that your battery is weak, meaning it isn't taking a full charge.

BUT....what exactly are you doing to start it ?
You should NOT open the throttle at all.
You should let it crank for 5 to 10 seconds before pausing.

If it sounds like the engine is turning over really slow, you definitely should have the battery tested.
The dealer could have neglected your battery for up to a year before you bought it.

You don't have any additives in the gas, do you ??

I know some people will find this "blasphemy" but regular grade gas might start better than premium in the cold.

Edit: Now that I have read ALL of the posts.................

The starter cranks over, then it cuts out. It does this over and over and over,

Definitely a case of: "loose" connection on one of the battery cables OR bad battery.
You don't have any extra electrical accessories that come on BEFORE the engine starts, do you ??

P.S. The battery is NOT a warranty item......unless you have a really good dealer.
 
Last edited:
Thank you Easy Rider. The only accessory that is plugged in is the Garmin for that bike. I could try disconnecting the Garmin, to see what happens. It seems to crank over well enough, but cuts out. I am not sure of how long it cranks, but probably not more than 10 seconds. Also, I am sure the terminals are secure, as I recently added another lead to heat my lady friend's jacket. The 2 leads just sit there with no draw on them. I snugged the leads on the battery sufficiently, as I had been an aircraft & engine mechanic, for over 30 years, plus working on cars and my bikes. Like I said, if nothing else seems to help the situation, it will be going back to the dealer. I just had the dealer change the oil, etc., & had them check the bike out, but it was warmer then.
Thank you again:
StevenQ
 
I could try disconnecting the Garmin, to see what happens. It seems to crank over well enough, but cuts out. I am not sure of how long it cranks, but probably not more than 10 seconds.

No, almost impossible that the Garmin would have anything to do with this problem. It doesn't draw enough power.


BUT.....the cranking time is kind of important. 10 seconds is a LONG time for a modern engine to crank without firing.
Maybe there is a built-in timed cutoff to keep from burning out the starter.

I think you need a shop visit......at a time when it is still COLD out.

Do you NOT have a voltmeter ? If not, you probably should get one.
A perfectly adequate one can be had for $20 or less.
Even the little red ones from Harbor Freight are good enough.
 
Yesterday I took the leads off the battery, cleaned the terminals & the lead connectors. They all looked good, but I cleaned them anyway. I was able to get the bike started, but it was almost 40 degrees. Reconnected my battery tender junior before leaving the bike (in garage). This morning it was just below 30 degrees. With the brake turned off & the fog lights turned off, I took Bob Denman's suggestion & did brief starts, - not long enough for the starter to cut out. After about 4 or 5 stabs, the bike came to life. That was a very nice sound, even with a stock muffler. Now I feel more confident about being able to ride as the weather gets colder.
Riding in the cold was never a problem, it was just getting the bike to start. For years I have used the "Hot Wired" jacket liner & the heated gloves, from Cycle Gear. They have kept me nice & warm, even down to 10 degrees. For those of you that don't put their bike away until spring, happy riding.
 
I took Bob Denman's suggestion & did brief starts, - not long enough for the starter to cut out. After about 4 or 5 stabs, the bike came to life.

Now you have a false sense of security.

That kind of procedure should NOT be necessary.......and it is likely that it will fail on you sometime soon.

It sounds like the "coolant temperature sensor" is not working right to richen the mixture like a choke did with a carb.

I think it was mentioned before that you need to test your battery and the charging voltage on your tender too.

You have applied a band aid to a gun shot wound.
It will start to bleed again eventually.
 
2016 RT-S SE6, I try to ride all year, rode last friday to work, my 1 hour loop to mystic and back on Saturday. Rode to work again this morning. I put the bike on the tender the night before and have no issues. I try to keep my garage at 50 degrees. I dress for winter riding. Wants the snow melts on the ride I ride. Patrick Kane
 
I suspect your battery is not up to snuff. In case you aren't aware of this, contrary to most all, at least all older bikes, the Spyder will not start if the battery voltage drops below 10.5. Starting, of course, sucks up a lot of current, so if the battery is weak it'll drop down below 10.5 pretty easily. Does your cluster screen go black when the starter quits cranking? If so, then you definitely have a severe voltage drop.
 
Back
Top