F3 trailer loading issues

[Pat Clark]

I've had this problem with both the toyhauler than I just sold and now with the utility trailer I bought to pull behind the Class A.
Biggest issue is with the switch on the left by the transmission shaft. It's angled down and catches on the gate when unloading. I don't see a way to adjust it upward to clear. If I get off the bike and use the clutch as a brake I have enough clearance but.. that's a pain.
Anyone else have this problem and what was your solution? I hate to have to carry ramps to raise the gate or jack up the the trailer tongue but that may be my only solution.
Pat

 

[CA Railwhale]

Replace the tailgate on the trailer with a six foot one. That solved the clearance problems for my f3

 

[Daddyray]

I borrowed my brothers utility trailer and I couldn't load my RTL on it. I released the locking on the ball to the truck and put the wheel down on the front of the trailer. Then I put a small 4x4 under the back of the trailer on each side so the trailer was even when it tilted up in the front and in my case pushed my RTl on to the ramp and trailer and the weight pulled the trailer down and back little and I was able to slide right on to the trailer and as I did the trailer came back down in the front nice and easy. Yes it took 3 of use to push it up one being my wife. Then I just rehooked the trailer to the truck. I also used a pair of chocks for the tires so the trailer wouldn't slide into the truck. I know this is long winded and sounds like a pain but it only took me about 2 minutes to get it ready and that was it.

 

[PrairieSpyder]

I borrowed my brothers utility trailer and I couldn't load my RTL on it. I released the locking on the ball to the truck and put the wheel down on the front of the trailer. Then I put a small 4x4 under the back of the trailer on each side so the trailer was even when it tilted up in the front and in my case pushed my RTl on to the ramp and trailer and the weight pulled the trailer down and back little and I was able to slide right on to the trailer and as I did the trailer came back down in the front nice and easy. Yes it took 3 of use to push it up one being my wife. Then I just rehooked the trailer to the truck. I also used a pair of chocks for the tires so the trailer wouldn't slide into the truck. I know this is long winded and sounds like a pain but it only took me about 2 minutes to get it ready and that was it.

If the trailer came off the hitch ball while loading, it wasn't locked down like it should have been. Better to have it occur during loading than on the road.

 

[Daddyray]

If the trailer came off the hitch ball while loading, it wasn't locked down like it should have been. Better to have it occur during loading than on the road.

I said I released it from the truck so it would come up making loading easier. "I released the locking on the ball to the truck and put the wheel down on the front of the trailer."

 

[ChicagoSpyder]

If your ramp angle is too steep use a 2x6 or 2x8 and place it at the mid-point of the ramp in a position where one of the front tires can ride up on it, this will allow enough lift for your machine to have a clean ride onto the trailer.

 

[Rattlebars]

I just use the jack on the tongue to raise the front of the trailer while it's still hooked on the ball. Yes, it does raise the rear of the towing vehicle but I can get enough elevation so it will load my lawn mower on which the deck would catch on the ramp. My F3 has no problem.

>CLICK ME<

 

[RPMF3L]

I use 2- 2"x8"x2' placed on ramp to get front tires up on ramp no problems after that.

 

[Gwolf]

I put my shorter tractor loading ramps in the centre and put the lawnmower loading ramps, which are maybe a foot longer on the outside. The front tires started up the longer ramps and did not come near hitting the center ramp nor the edge of the trailer. The F3 loaded right up, no problem. It unloaded just as easy. The bed of my equipment trailer is not more than 18 inches off the ground. I unloaded it right where it is sitting in the picture.

 

[Eviltwin]

I have/had a problem with the ramp on my alumina trailer being a bit short which can cause the nose of the bike to scrape a bit getting on the ramp and grind the underside going over the middle with the rear still on the ramp. I tried using the trailer jack when the trailer was on the car and that worked fine to pick up the front some and lessen the angle.

But that aint gonna work when the trailer is on the back of the motorhome which weighs about 14,000 lbs. For that, I got an adjustable hitch and set it so it was about 2-3" higher and between that and a 2x6 under the back of the ramp, the angle is flat enough so it doesnt scrape either way.

 

[pauly1]

another option is to enter the ramp with the Spyder at an angle: 5 to 10 degrees is enough. One front wheel will be on the ramp first, lifting the nose while the second wheel transitions to the ramp. Once on the ramp, straighten the handlebars to align the bike with the trailer. Unloading is the reverse: back straight down until the rear wheel is on the ground and then begin to turn the handlebar to allow the front wheels to reach the ground, one at a time. Angle from the left or right works. I've successfully used this technique to load two F3's into an enclosed trailer, backing the first one in and then riding the second one in nose-to-nose.

 

[PMK]

Does your Spyder have rear suspension air ride installed, if so, increase the ride height to maximum.

 

[ATC]

You can back the rear of the tow vehicle onto ramps or blocks of wood to raise the tongue of the trailer.

You can build and install "humps" on the trailer, at the correct location for the front tires to ride up and over to lift the belly of the machine from the tailgate's pivot point as you drive on.

 

[ChicagoSpyder]

I have/had a problem with the ramp on my alumina trailer being a bit short which can cause the nose of the bike to scrape a bit getting on the ramp and grind the underside going over the middle with the rear still on the ramp. I tried using the trailer jack when the trailer was on the car and that worked fine to pick up the front some and lessen the angle.

But that aint gonna work when the trailer is on the back of the motorhome which weighs about 14,000 lbs. For that, I got an adjustable hitch and set it so it was about 2-3" higher and between that and a 2x6 under the back of the ramp, the angle is flat enough so it doesnt scrape either way.

I have a 2x8 that is about 5' long and I place that up about 3/4 of the way up the ramp for my Aluma trailer and I drive the right tire on it and it gives me the clearance while loading and unloading, I'll post a picture later.

 

[jbim]

My trailer has a four feet gate. I bought a 2X10 X 8 feet, cut it into three pieces of 32 inches each, added two 3-inch screws to each, spaced just enough to clear the tubing up and down, the screws keep the pieces of wood from slipping down or up. Works just fine. I took the idea from another OP on another thread.

 

[ChicagoSpyder]

I actually don't need to use this with my new trailer, but this is what worked on my old trailer, it's just the 2x6 I use as the dividing bar in the bed of the truck.