Lew L
Well-known member
I may just have to do that at the next oil change-------
I also opened up the 2 drain holes in the "skid plates" with a Dremel tool. Sooo much easier and less messy on a 2014 and later RT
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Doing 1st oil change (Spyder RT) I have a few questions (((Pics)))
- Thread starter shakin_jake
- Start date
I may just have to do that at the next oil change-------
I also opened up the 2 drain holes in the "skid plates" with a Dremel tool. Sooo much easier and less messy on a 2014 and later RT
shakin_jake
Member
Pliers I tried using last night, along with the hemostats I’m using today. That said, once i get the hemostats to grip the tubing, I pull and the hemostats slips off the tubing. Made 1/2 dozen attempts (at least), no luck removing the 1/4” tubing. I’m beginning to think when the assembler at the factory put the tubing in, he or she added a few drops of super glue to the tubing. When I step in it, I really step in it<LOL>
Is the pair of hemostats you used shooter, are they shorter in length vs. the pair I’m using? I’m wondering if the jaws are too long and not getting enough grip at the tip? FWIW I measured the length of the hemostats, 10” bow to stern
Best,
Jake
Reddick Fla.
It’s never too late to have a happy childhood
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
Sorry I forgot you have a 21 RT :yikes: ..... But even if I had remembered It's hard to keep track of every change BRP has made so far :roflblack: ............ Mike :thumbup:
K80Shooter
New member
Pliers I tried using last night, along with the hemostats I’m using today. That said, once i get the hemostats to grip the tubing, I pull and the hemostats slips off the tubing. Made 1/2 dozen attempts (at least), no luck removing the 1/4” tubing. I’m beginning to think when the assembler at the factory put the tubing in, he or she added a few drops of super glue to the tubing. When I step in it, I really step in it<LOL>
Is the pair of hemostats you used shooter, are they shorter in length vs. the pair I’m using? I’m wondering if the jaws are too long and not getting enough grip at the tip? FWIW I measured the length of the hemostats, 10” bow to stern
Best,
Jake
Reddick Fla.
It’s never too late to have a happy childhood
Mine are shorter than yours. See if maybe you can take something and push from the opposite side while you pull with the hemostat. Also try moving the tubing back (toward the frame) before pulling.
I also just left mine out, I just did a 500 mile trip and it never moved.
PW2013STL
Active member
One thing you could try is take a stiff wire (wire coat hanger) and file a point on one end then bent it up so that you can slide it into the tube then press it up/down to pierce the tube and pull it out.
I stopped putting that tube back and I have 38,000 miles on my 2020 without any issues with the reservoir coming loose.
I stopped putting that tube back and I have 38,000 miles on my 2020 without any issues with the reservoir coming loose.
redrazor
Member
bikerbillone
Well-known member
Believe it's under the right panel, easy to pull off then the oil stick appears. Good info in this thread, I drove up on the ramps and got it done, but backing up on thr ramps is a good tip. That 6mm drain is directly under the right brake spring, a little difficult to get to. Be sure and give the 6mm a tap to set it securely so you don't strip out the head. I used my iPhone light to get a good view up under there.
shakin_jake
Member
~~~a little difficult to get to?
~~~more than a little difficult to get to as this bolt and nut is right beside it so unless you have an extended 6mm Allen, you wont get a good perpendicular drive onto that drain with a standard length socket
~~~here’s the rest of what’s in the way, at getting a straight drive on the trans drain bolt on my 2021 RT Limited. It’s the brake stay arm mount for the brake pedal. I decided to remove the nut and bolt so the rest of the brake stay was out of the way (so to speak). Doing it that way i found unleashed another problem though
~~~at the other end of the brake stay is the brake light switch, and when I reassembled and walked around the back of my Spyder, I saw that the brake lights were now on, without depressing the brake pedal. Easy enough fix. All that needs to be done is to back off both of the lock nuts you see in the pic above and rotate the switch to get the correct distance thereby eliminating the tension that was activating the brake lights
~~~yet you can avoid all that drama by using an extended length 6mm Allen, they are available. The Park Tool Company T handle you see here has a ball drive on the end so I decided not to use it as it would surely strip out the drain plug. I also decided against cutting the ball end off eliminating the ball , only because of the amount of torque required to extract the drain plug. The factory assembler put too much torque (IMO) on this drain plug, to be successful using the T handle pictured here
~~~as it were, fortunately for me there actually was a bright light in last night’s festivities (wrenching on Cretin Girl). I stopped by my local Home Depot and picked up an 8” long nose pair of pliers and was able to remove the errant airline tubing, on the first attempt no less
Best,
Jake
Reddick Fla.
Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while
bikerbillone
Well-known member
Jake, maybe 'a little' was an understatement. 
shakin_jake
Member
You riding that thing yet????opcorn:
~~~51 out of 52 weeks a year
Best,
Jake
Reddick Fla.
It’s never too late to have a happy childhood
WilcoJunoHotel
New member
Might be a bit late on this thread but hang on to those OEM o rings and use them as a reference whenever you change the filter again - measure the new o rings against the old ones to make sure you are not only putting the right o ring where it is supposed to go but also that the new o ring is the same exact size as the OEM one.
Friend of mine bought from a site vendor and it came with the wrong size large o ring. He had oil leaking everywhere upon startup. He couldn't figure out what the problem was until I brought my OEM set over and we compared the size and realized it wasn't the right one.
Friend of mine bought from a site vendor and it came with the wrong size large o ring. He had oil leaking everywhere upon startup. He couldn't figure out what the problem was until I brought my OEM set over and we compared the size and realized it wasn't the right one.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
Changing " O " rings or washers can be a good thing as long as you get it right ..... however my 14 RT has the same ones for the past 66,000 + miles and no leaks...... I could just be lucky .....:clap: ..... Mike :thumbup:
bikerbillone
Well-known member
I've read some riders are not changing those O rings every oil change, maybe even two or three, like you said Mike.
K80Shooter
New member
I did not change the O-Rings on my 1st oil change. I have a set just in case they were needed. We'll see how it goes at the next oil change.
Filter is behind the right service cover but you need to remove the side panel (two (I think) plastic clips and two or three (old brain) 5mm hex bolts. Glad you got the drain bolt out OK, I had one that they used extra LockTite on and I had to use a hammer and chisel to get the engine drain out. Now has two new Gold plugs (check them out....)
shakin_jake
Member
~~~sorry i missed your post McRuss. Im just seeing it now. Not sure what you mean when you said “Now has two new Gold plugs”. Please explain. Thanking you in advance
Best,
Jake
Reddick Fla.
arkyleo
Member
I just changed oil on my 2021 RTL (second oil change) at 5800 miles from the first change---WOW the difference in shifting and clutch operation was really noticeable. I know Can-Am says 9300 miles, but thats too long. I used the LaMonster kit and it took 5.3 qts to put the level slightly above the halfway mark on the stick. A little tip: After removing both drain plugs, leave them open with a wide pan (or 2) while you remove the oil filter--because that causes more dirty oil to come out. Replaced the drain plugs with LaMonster's gold hex heads.
Another tip: On the right side (clutch), it's easy to get a straight shot at the drain by just unhooking the brake spring,taking the nut thats in the way off the fulcrum lever and pushing the bolt just far enough through to get a straight square shot at the drain. Cheers!
Another tip: On the right side (clutch), it's easy to get a straight shot at the drain by just unhooking the brake spring,taking the nut thats in the way off the fulcrum lever and pushing the bolt just far enough through to get a straight square shot at the drain. Cheers!
bikerbillone
Well-known member
Only thinking out loud here, and not another oil thread, maybe the blend is better for the engine and shifting than full synthetic. BRP must have had a reason.....I'm rethinking my full synthetic, and trying not 'over think' it.
