:clap:Wow 120K!! :congrats: I defer to your veteran experience on this one.After 120K miles, 6 front sprockets, 2 rear hubs, 4 complete sets rear bearings, 2 rear swing arms, 2 belts...your problem is rear sprocket being out of alignment. nojoke
In time will destroy the bearings, seals and belt. The rear tire should have excessive wear.Have a good mechanic remove the rear wheel, inspect the hub, seals and bearings and re-install and align the sprocket/wheel/belt correctly.Doc, can I ask you a question. If it is indeed the sprocket, would putting wax on the belt temporary resolve the issue. Before, it made the noise all the time, not just now and again. But after waxing the belt, it stopped immediately.Dee
After 120K miles, 6 front sprockets, 2 rear hubs, 4 complete sets rear bearings, 2 rear swing arms, 2 belts...your problem is rear sprocket being out of alignment. nojoke
Hey Slybird, I have found that these forums are so full of knowledgeable folks. :bowdown:
I have another 300 miles before I should have it serviced and I am wondering it that will be okay or just bite the bullet and make two trips. It may take a little time for the candle wax to come off enough for the sound to come back:yikes:
I hope you will post again when you hear from your dealer.
Dee
Belt alignment is done with the rear sprocket (i.e. rear wheel). Follow the procedure in the manual. The sprocket iteself cannot be adjusted.I have the same issue with 300 miles on a brand new 2011 RT-S SE5. I have looked in the manual and cant find where the sprocket alignment procedure is. I can only see the alignment procedure for the belt. Anyone know where I can look and find it? I know its a sprocket issue because on the rear sprocket I can see an uneven gap around the sprocket where belt is even touching the inside lip of the sprocket.
Belt alignment is done with the rear sprocket (i.e. rear wheel). Follow the procedure in the manual. The sprocket iteself cannot be adjusted.
I had the dealer adjust my belt tension when I heard about BRP changing the tension spec and got BRP to cover it since mine with only 1000 miles at the time was double the new spec.Thanks Scotty,
I understand now. I was wondering how someone could adjust the sprocket. I was looking at the maual for the tension on the belt and it has some electronic contraption to use. Is there any other way to adjust the tension by using hand tools or a simpler way of doing this?
The best way to adjust the belt is with the sonic gauge, with the Spyder jacked up, as described in the manual. You can do a pretty good check with the Krikit belt gauge by NAPA. I believe the part number is KR2. Gates has a similar gauge. There is no straight comparison to the sonic gauge readings, though, so the best bet is to get a baseline reading with the Kriket after a dealer adjusts the belt. Most folks find that a reading of about 150-180 on the Krikit, with the Spyder sitting on the ground, compares favorably. Readings should be taken in the center of the belt run, with the tire rotated and an average of three readings in different places used. I have found that the old standard of twisting the belt with your finger and thumb seems to apply. A 90 degree twist (with difficulty)at the center of the run seems to correspond to the correct tension. BTW, aligning and tensioning the belt is a standard part of the 600 mile service.
:hun: 1/4 turn is 90 degrees (not 90 percent). 360 degrees divided by four = 90 when I went to school.Nancy Toy, Are you sure about that 90% twisting of belt? I have used your suggested twist of a 1/4 turn to check belt and it seems perfect.90% seems that would be 2/3 of a twist or more.