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Dealer brake fluid change
- Thread starter Morturf
- Start date
I use an HF vacuum pump. I'm in agreement with BajaRon. I've changed my pads a couple of times using his pads. Each time I sucked out some fluid at the caliper end as well as the reservoir end and it's all been clear and clean. I don't think it needs changing as often as BRP says unless it is dark colored, has bubbles or water contamination. It would have to be a very long and fast twisty steep down run 2up towing a loaded trailer to get the fluid to boil, if even that would do it.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Here is the information I received from Speed Bleeder Products. They have been very responsive and informative as to application. They also offer a stainless steel version, which is quite interesting.
Let me know if it is too small for you to read and I will send you the file.
Let me know if it is too small for you to read and I will send you the file.
oldgoat
New member
I contacted them yesterday for my 2008 GS. Same as all the others , SB8125L.
I ordered 3.
BajaRon
Well-known member
I have been asked how a Speed Bleeder works and why it is a good idea to replace the OEM bleeders with this upgrade.
A Speed Bleeder uses a Spring Loaded Ball Valve assembly. It does what you do when you open a bleeder with pressure on the fluid, bleed and close. The differences are. A Speed Bleeder opens and closes automatically and reliably. 1 person can bleed a system with a speed bleeder, whereas it usually takes 2 people to do it with a standard bleeding process. When you do this manually, you can easily get air in the system. Not good! With a Speed Bleeder, air cannot get into the system. So, bleeding is much faster, easier, and less problem prone when you use Speed Bleeders.
Picture A below shows air in the system with the ball valve closed. Picture B shows how the Speed Bleeder opens automatically when enough hydraulic pressure is applied to overcomes the ball valve, which then allows the fluid and trapped air to escape. Picture C represents the ball valve closing and sealing the system automatically as the hydraulic pressure decreases. Fluid/Air can only go out, they cannot get in. It is a 1-way system. Simple and effective.
This does not take into consideration the other bleeding alternatives like a pressurized bottle apparatus. But of all the methods I've tried. This method is reliable and the easiest, quickest, and least messy way I've found.
A Speed Bleeder uses a Spring Loaded Ball Valve assembly. It does what you do when you open a bleeder with pressure on the fluid, bleed and close. The differences are. A Speed Bleeder opens and closes automatically and reliably. 1 person can bleed a system with a speed bleeder, whereas it usually takes 2 people to do it with a standard bleeding process. When you do this manually, you can easily get air in the system. Not good! With a Speed Bleeder, air cannot get into the system. So, bleeding is much faster, easier, and less problem prone when you use Speed Bleeders.
Picture A below shows air in the system with the ball valve closed. Picture B shows how the Speed Bleeder opens automatically when enough hydraulic pressure is applied to overcomes the ball valve, which then allows the fluid and trapped air to escape. Picture C represents the ball valve closing and sealing the system automatically as the hydraulic pressure decreases. Fluid/Air can only go out, they cannot get in. It is a 1-way system. Simple and effective.
This does not take into consideration the other bleeding alternatives like a pressurized bottle apparatus. But of all the methods I've tried. This method is reliable and the easiest, quickest, and least messy way I've found.
Last edited:
PMK
Active member
On the race bikes, most times we use a longer hose and tie a loose knot in the hose. This works well to keep air from reentering the system.
Pretty much though, the Spyder is an easy bleed if you know how to bleed brakes. The final step I use after vacuum bleeding is pump and release to remove the final slightest bit of entrapped air. But yes, that step takes two people a few minutes to do.
BajaRon
Well-known member
I have never experienced leakage by the threads. But I have heard others talk about it. This is especially annoying because it is not a good idea to use any thread sealers on bleeders. The chance of contaminating/blocking something in the system is real. And you're right. At least the quality Speed Bleeders have addressed this possibility.
Dennis in Lodi
Member
anyone know where the brake resivor is located on a 2016 F3L? Don't want to take off more covers than needed.
Thanks
Dennis
Thanks
Dennis
h0gr1der
New member
Does it require BUDS to get fluid out of the ABS bleeder? Trying to decide if I should get that bleeder also.
As my addition to this topic, I just went and checked my Brembo calipers and they were non-magnetic. I'm guessing aluminum? Anyway, installing any kind of stainless into an aluminum piece creates a galvanic cell in the presence of an electrolyte such as water or worse water with salt. Regular steel does the same, just much less aggressively. The stainless becomes the cathode, and the aluminum becomes the anode and gets eroded. I think I'll stick with the regular steel ones.
As my addition to this topic, I just went and checked my Brembo calipers and they were non-magnetic. I'm guessing aluminum? Anyway, installing any kind of stainless into an aluminum piece creates a galvanic cell in the presence of an electrolyte such as water or worse water with salt. Regular steel does the same, just much less aggressively. The stainless becomes the cathode, and the aluminum becomes the anode and gets eroded. I think I'll stick with the regular steel ones.
I was watching a YouTube about bleeding Spyder brakes. The guy said the front calipers must be removed first so the bleeder valve is at the top. He also said the rear muffler needs to be removed to access the bleeder. Is this true?
I’ve never blead brakes before, but I thought I’d just have to remove the front wheels.
I had the fluid flushed on my 2016 last year at the dealer, and it was very expensive. I’d like to do it myself next time.
....brian.
I’ve never blead brakes before, but I thought I’d just have to remove the front wheels.
I had the fluid flushed on my 2016 last year at the dealer, and it was very expensive. I’d like to do it myself next time.
....brian.
RICZ
New member
I have an F3L, so I'm gonna guess the bleeding procedure is the same on an RT. The front wheels do need to be removed to access the bleeders,but not the rear wheel. Bleed the left front first, then the right front, then the rear. The rear bleeder is at the top of the caliper facing front. It's accessed from the right side of the bike.
Helpful hint: Get a set of Speed Bleeders to make the job stupid easy. No additional tools or equipment needed, just a hose, a container for the spent fluid and a wrench that fits. All you do is open the Speed Bleeder 1/8 turn, pump the brake pedal until you see fresh fluid then close the valve. Of course you will be keeping an eye on the reservoir so you don't drain the chamber.
Helpful hint: Get a set of Speed Bleeders to make the job stupid easy. No additional tools or equipment needed, just a hose, a container for the spent fluid and a wrench that fits. All you do is open the Speed Bleeder 1/8 turn, pump the brake pedal until you see fresh fluid then close the valve. Of course you will be keeping an eye on the reservoir so you don't drain the chamber.
PMK
Active member
Previous posts have mentioned the task.
The calipers should not require being removed. The front wheels will need to be removed. So in that regard, you will need a proper torque wrench for reinstalling the wheels.
Focused on bleeding the brakes, there are 4 bleeders that require access. I assume you are accomplishing a flush and bleed. With that, to save time, start by removing all existing fluid from the two reservoir segments.
Refill the reservoir with correct new fluid. Typically, the sequence is left front, right front, rear, then ABS module. Each is bled until new fluid is seen in the catch cup for old fluid. I have found it best to accomplish the flush where the first pass removes essentially all old fluid. The second pass ensures clean fluid on account of the catch cup has been emptied.
As you have read, some folks install aftermarket Speedbleeders. Others, myself included have not yet bothered to do so.
The calipers should not require being removed. The front wheels will need to be removed. So in that regard, you will need a proper torque wrench for reinstalling the wheels.
Focused on bleeding the brakes, there are 4 bleeders that require access. I assume you are accomplishing a flush and bleed. With that, to save time, start by removing all existing fluid from the two reservoir segments.
Refill the reservoir with correct new fluid. Typically, the sequence is left front, right front, rear, then ABS module. Each is bled until new fluid is seen in the catch cup for old fluid. I have found it best to accomplish the flush where the first pass removes essentially all old fluid. The second pass ensures clean fluid on account of the catch cup has been emptied.
As you have read, some folks install aftermarket Speedbleeders. Others, myself included have not yet bothered to do so.
If I remove all the old fluid from the reservoir, won’t that let air into the system, which would mean I’d need buds to flush the abs? I was hoping to just flush and not let air into the lines.
Also, when installing the speedbleeders, is much air allowed in?
Than you for your expertise everyone!....brian
Also, when installing the speedbleeders, is much air allowed in?
Than you for your expertise everyone!....brian
