Cracked engine oil bolt

[capt.jim]

On my 83 mitsubishi turbo diesel P/U i had a neat spring loaded drain plug with a little arm you slid to the side, worked great for 250,000 miles, don't think i would trust it on my spyder though. I rigged boats for a while, we called anti-seize, "always seize", didn't work well with dissimular metals, alum./ stain, stainless/ mild steel, and the salt didn't help either. When i reuse the copper washers i put them on a flat peice of 100 grit and move them around with my thumb and rough them up a little, they snug down a little smoother.

 

[Arthur---Mexico]

Removing a broken headless bolt

This is a touchy situation. The way I have removed headless bolts or broke off studs using a left handed threaded extractor is the following: First you have to remember that the bolt you are removing has a right hand thread so you have to use a left hand fluted drill of the correct size in a electric hand drill capable of operating in a counter clockwise direction with the correct size drill bit chucked in it. This bit size will be indicated on the extractor. This is because the the RH drill bit can screw the broken off plug into the oil pan/carter on the engine and its removal will require the disassembly of the engine. The left LH bit will have a tendency to unscrew the plug rather than screw the plug in more so that it gets trapped in the oil pan. Then there's the problem that when you do drill the guide hole through the oil broken off plug the oil in the oil pan will begin to run out throught the drilled hole. This can be a real mess. Then the extractor tool has to be driven into the pilot/guide hole that you drilled in the broken off plug. The plug's extraction should then be very easy. Applying any sort of liquid with the idea that this will loosen the broken off bolt is a fallacy. I have a lot of experience in machining operations and consequently using broken off bolt removers. The drilled hole has to be very well centered in the part to be unscrewed. By Arthur S. Cohen

 

[jrbloise]

Drain Plugs Ordered...

These look good. I just may go for these myself! :thumbup:

I just ordered the MP01 and MP02 plugs. I also ordered extra washers. I hope the washers are like BRP's crush washers. If not, I hope the BRP crush washers will fit.

John

 

[Rando]

I also ordered extra washers. I hope the washers are like BRP's crush washers. If not, I hope the BRP crush washers will fit.John

Found on their FAQ.

Should I order extra washers for future replacements?

We suggest replacing your drain plug washer at every oil change. The washer is meant to crush with every use to seal from oil leaks. Replacing your washer every time is cheap insurance. All drain plugs come with one washer.

 

[jrbloise]

Rando....

Found on their FAQ.

Should I order extra washers for future replacements?

We suggest replacing your drain plug washer at every oil change. The washer is meant to crush with every use to seal from oil leaks. Replacing your washer every time is cheap insurance. All drain plugs come with one washer.

Many thanks for that bit of information. Glad I ordered extra washers from them.

John

 

[bruceofthebronx]

Goldplugs

on order with extra washers. Thanks folks.:2thumbs:

 

[BajaRon]

Found on their FAQ.

Should I order extra washers for future replacements?

We suggest replacing your drain plug washer at every oil change. The washer is meant to crush with every use to seal from oil leaks. Replacing your washer every time is cheap insurance. All drain plugs come with one washer.

I just changed my oil today, 17,000 miles and several oil changes.

This is the first time I put new washers and filter O-Ring on (if you don't count the new case washer I put on after Lamont changed my oil and left the case washer off and I rode a few thousand miles with no washer at all and not a drop of oil leaked out).

Lamont has run many more miles and many more oil changes without changing out any of his copper washers or O-Ring. All with no problems.

All I'm saying is the O-Ring and copper washers will last several oil changes, no problem. The copper washers are NOT Crush Washers!

Crush washers are designed to deform (crush) like the washer on a spark plug. They are good only one time. But the copper washers we use are solid metal and do not 'Crush' or deform so they can be used several times without a problem unless they are damaged.

It is a good idea to have spare washers and a filter O-Ring so that if you find one of them damaged you can complete your oil change without waiting for parts.

 

[MarkZ28]

I have been using antiseize on all kinds of cars, bikes, trucks with aluminum heads on the sparkplugs. If you dont the plugs will seize up and tear the htrwads up the next time you remove them. I have never had any dissimilar metals corrode from any anti seize compound at all. Most owners manulas and workshop manuals even state to use it on aluminum parts using ferrous bolts. About the only place its not recomended is on wheel lug nuts/bolts or other bolts that get vibrated a lot or have a chance of backing out.