bruceofthebronx
New member
Changed my oil today and did the unthinkable. Even though I used a torque wrench, set @ 15 lb/ft, the bolt cracked off at the head. Any input on extraction ideas or tools would be appreciated. Thanks.:gaah:
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Cracked engine oil bolt
- Thread starter bruceofthebronx
- Start date
Raptor
New member
My gosh, I am hearing about this more and more! These drain plugs appear to be real crap bolts. Was this the crank case drain or the oil tank drain?
BTW, here is an interesting link that may be helpful... http://www.ehow.com/how_5127433_use-easy-outs.html Good luck!
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Sorry about your troubles. I would support the bike up on jack stands. Get a drill bit and left hand thread tap, 1/4"-20 maybe. Drill hole (I think its a 7/64" for 1/4"-20) into whats left of bolt and tap out. Install left hand thread bolt and tighten until oil plug comes loose. I had my own troubles today while changing oil on the Spyder. While reinstalling lower front body panel, I installed the front bolt where the upper panel clip goes. When I tried to retract the bolt I stripped it out and had a hell of a time trying to get it out of the clip.:gaah: Good luck.
BajaRon
Well-known member
There is absolutely no head left on the bolt at all? Is there anything sticking out at all or is it broken off flush with the case?
If there is anything sticking out you can try tapping it around with a flat blade screwdriver.
If there is nothing to tap against you might try a punch. If you use a small drill to make an indentation near the edge of the bolt threads (be carefull not to slip over into the case). Then you can use a punch to tap the bolt and see if it will turn.
Without a head on the bolt there should be little if any friction to hold the bolt threads in. Once you get it turned out a little ways you can probably turn it with pliers.
You haven't damaged anything yet so just be careful and take your time. It will come out.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Yes, an 'Easy Out' (which they usually aren't by the way) will work too. I guess my method is more the poor mans approach.
Raptor
New member
Good advice, Baja. Has anyone that you know of found a good replacement for these weak bolts? Hate the allen key aspect of them as well...
BajaRon
Well-known member
There are some posts on this in the Shop Talk forum. I have not looked into it myself. Every time I change the oil it reminds me how I really do not like the Allen head bolts but when I'm done I forget about it. I will probably change mine one of these times.
The stock bolts really do suck.
This is what I got off the Shop Talk forum. The crankcase drain plug is a 12mm with 1.5 pitch. The oil reservoir bolt is a 14mm with 1.5 pitch
Armed with this information these should not be hard to come by at a good auto parts store. I usually JB Weld a small magnet on the end. That really helps. First, it takes at least the ferrous metal shavings out of circulation. But it's great to see how much (or lack of) metal shavings your getting. Can really tell you a lot about how good your oil is and the condition of your engine.
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bruceofthebronx
New member
Thanks to all of you,
your time and input is deeply appreciated. Have a great day, we know what I'll be doing :cus:.
Ride safe.
your time and input is deeply appreciated. Have a great day, we know what I'll be doing :cus:.
Ride safe.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
I would never recommend using anti-seize on anything that is threaded into aluminum, like the Spyder crankcase. It is very corrosive, and will eat out the aluminum in time. It is made for metal to metal contact on ferrous metals.
Biggest reasons for breaking or damaging drain plugs are:
1. Plug cracked due to flaw or over-torqueing.
2. Plug not properly torqued (tightened by hand or to wrong spec).
3. Failure to replace the crush washer. New washers compress, old ones don't, and eventually , after several uses, there is no give, so plug sticks hard.
4. Failure to use a crush washer.
Roger
New member
AAAAH! i forgot it was aluminum good catch thank you so do not use this stuff their people. :gaah:
Rando
New member
Crankcase: MP-01
http://www.goldplug.com/Motorcycle_Drain_Plugs/MP01.html
Oil reservoir: MP-02
http://www.goldplug.com/Motorcycle_Drain_Plugs/MP02.html
http://www.goldplug.com/Motorcycle_Drain_Plugs/MP01.html
Oil reservoir: MP-02
http://www.goldplug.com/Motorcycle_Drain_Plugs/MP02.html
jrbloise
New member
Rando...
Rando,
Curious, have you ordered these plugs and are you using them on your Spyder?
John
Rando,
Curious, have you ordered these plugs and are you using them on your Spyder?
John
bruceofthebronx
New member
Removal done.
Thanks all, used easy outs and I think it took about 2 minutes. All your input is deeply appreciated.
Be well,
Bruce:2thumbs:
Thanks all, used easy outs and I think it took about 2 minutes. All your input is deeply appreciated.
Be well,
Bruce:2thumbs:
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
Just got to get the right stuff.
http://www.antiseize.com/32000.htm
From what I've been reading anti-seize prevent electrolysis.
bruceofthebronx
New member
Firefly
Active member
Since the head is off and there's no pressure holding the plug in--- I would get a left-handed drill bit--- then run your drill in reverse and try to drill a hole in the plug. Good chance ones the left-hand bit takes hold that it will unscrew the plug.
Otherwise use an easy-out. They fixed mine in Cuba--- easy job when you have the right tools. I now carry extra drain plugs as they're only like $10 each.
If you use a different plug for the crankcase-- make sure it's magnetic.
Good luck!
Otherwise use an easy-out. They fixed mine in Cuba--- easy job when you have the right tools. I now carry extra drain plugs as they're only like $10 each.
If you use a different plug for the crankcase-- make sure it's magnetic.
Good luck!
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
This one might work. Its aluminum/graphite composition seem promising. I am a fossil, and I am used to using old-fashioned Never-Seize. Dissimilar metals always want to start electrolysis, and the moisture and molybdenum from the typical anti-seize compounds speed it up and magnify it when aluminum or magnesium is involved...in my experience. I have seen some parts that were eaten out so badly as to be unusable. I always found it odd that while anti-seize compounds help prevent corrosion with like metals, they would sometimes accelerate deterioration when multiple metals were involved. Glad to see some companies seem to be addressing the issue. Now to make the good stuff a houshold word...like Xerox! Unfortunately, Never-Seize is the name many people think of first.
I wouldn't use anti-seize on a drain plug, anyway. I would be afraid it could vibrate loose more easily.
Rando
New member
I ordered them last week but haven't received them yet. I plan on switching to them during my next oil change.
Raptor
New member
These look good. I just may go for these myself! :thumbup:
