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Changing your own oil....

threefingers2

New member
When we get our 2014 RT Limited it will only have 550 miles on it. Do i need to start fresh or wait until the first oil change is required ? If i do my own Change do i need the computer set up to clear things out of the system if so where do i get the hook ups nessesary for a ipad? Thanks you guys for helping a newbie to the Spyder world. Craig & Lori
 
OIL CHANGE

Hi Craig, the first change depends on how long you plan to keep it ( imho )......The first oil change is where you will find 95% of the metallic particles that are present in all(?) new engines.......so imho the sooner you get them out the better. Oil is fairly in-expensive ( Valvoline 10w/40 full Synthetic $ 36.00 for a six-pack on-line at Walmart ), as is the filter $ 13 (?) from BAJARON ( a vendor here )...........and if you do it yourself - just some time........No you don't need BUDS........Mike :thumbup:
 
Let's see....

With that low mileage you should be fine till your scheduled oil change. There is no need to hook up to the buds system for oil changes. If you want to have the diagnostics your dealer will be the place. Congrats on your new ryde...:2thumbs:
 
If i do my own Change do i need the computer set up to clear things out of the system

Nope, what you need is a lot of time, and the directions in the manual. Took me most of a day to do it. I used to do my own changes on my 2 wheeler, took 30 minutes max. It's all the Tupperware that has to be removed that takes so much time. I think it's a lot easier/quicker if you can get the
:f_spider: (Spyder) off the ground.

Have fun!

~Sandee~
 
If its a 2014 and never had an oil change it is VERY OVERDUE already. Requires annual change regardless of mileage unless the engine is never started....

It should have had its initial change long ago. So yes, you need to change it now.

Its a good idea to have the dealer do the initial change and update the software etc. Document for warranty. After that its just basic service and you can do your own.
 
Not necessarily overdue. I bought a used 2014 RT in November from the original owner who bought it new in Feb. 2015. It is just now a year old with 2000 miles on it. I'll have 3000 on it after Daytona and the dealer said it was fine to wait until I get back to do the first service.

QUOTE=jcthorne;1090809]If its a 2014 and never had an oil change it is VERY OVERDUE already. Requires annual change regardless of mileage unless the engine is never started....

It should have had its initial change long ago. So yes, you need to change it now.

Its a good idea to have the dealer do the initial change and update the software etc. Document for warranty. After that its just basic service and you can do your own.[/QUOTE]
 
Not necessarily overdue. I bought a used 2014 RT in November from the original owner who bought it new in Feb. 2015. It is just now a year old with 2000 miles on it. I'll have 3000 on it after Daytona and the dealer said it was fine to wait until I get back to do the first service.

QUOTE=jcthorne;1090809]If its a 2014 and never had an oil change it is VERY OVERDUE already. Requires annual change regardless of mileage unless the engine is never started....

It should have had its initial change long ago. So yes, you need to change it now.

Its a good idea to have the dealer do the initial change and update the software etc. Document for warranty. After that its just basic service and you can do your own.
[/QUOTE]


My point was that the clock starts ticking when the engine is first started coming out of the crate, not on the day you pick it up. Most folks will not ride a Spyder far enough to use the mileage limits for oil changes. Plan on annual service for most. The OP is purchasing used, not new out of the crate. To be really sure, he would need the original in service date. I would change it now and start off right. I also like to get break in oil out of the engine sooner than BRP does.
 
Question on oil change

Here is what was explained to me on the initial breakin as an FYI. As mike said above, there are tiny pieces of metal that by design will be in the first oil change. However changing that oil before the recommended interval can actually have a negative effect on the longevity and performance of the motor. Those tiny pieces of metal actually perform the final polishing of the inner cylinder walls as they flow through the motor. Changing the oil early doesn't give the cylinders time to be fine polished which results in poor seals and thus bad performance from the motor.
 
Its a $30k machine that is going on 2 years old with the original oil. Seriously, change the oil.
Some of you are so friggin' CHEAP when it comes to maintenance!

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
Here is what was explained to me on the initial breakin as an FYI. As mike said above, there are tiny pieces of metal that by design will be in the first oil change. However changing that oil before the recommended interval can actually have a negative effect on the longevity and performance of the motor. Those tiny pieces of metal actually perform the final polishing of the inner cylinder walls as they flow through the motor. Changing the oil early doesn't give the cylinders time to be fine polished which results in poor seals and thus bad performance from the motor.
I would run away from any tech who ever tried to feed me a line of crap like this. You cannot change your oil to often. The only thing it does is make your wallet a bit lighter

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
BREAK-IN OIL

My point was that the clock starts ticking when the engine is first started coming out of the crate, not on the day you pick it up. Most folks will not ride a Spyder far enough to use the mileage limits for oil changes. Plan on annual service for most. The OP is purchasing used, not new out of the crate. To be really sure, he would need the original in service date. I would change it now and start off right. I also like to get break in oil out of the engine sooner than BRP does.[/QUOTE]
...............................................................How do you know BRP is using " break-in oil ", and recommending you leave it in for 3000 miles...............I doubt it's different from what BRP normally uses....................jmho.........Mike :thumbup:
 
OIL CHANGE

I would run away from any tech who ever tried to feed me a line of crap like this. You cannot change your oil to often. The only thing it does is make your wallet a bit lighter

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
:agree::agree::agree::agree::agree:...........................PLUS do you think BRP is using " BREAK-IN OIL " ? ? ?, ......Mike :thumbup:
 
Also, if you're going to do you own oil changes get a set of Dimple magnetic oil drain plugs. The OEM ones are soft and difficult to work with.
 
Here is what was explained to me on the initial breakin as an FYI. As mike said above, there are tiny pieces of metal that by design will be in the first oil change. However changing that oil before the recommended interval can actually have a negative effect on the longevity and performance of the motor. Those tiny pieces of metal actually perform the final polishing of the inner cylinder walls as they flow through the motor. Changing the oil early doesn't give the cylinders time to be fine polished which results in poor seals and thus bad performance from the motor.


By 2500 miles that is long over and its just excess wear and low quality oil in the sump.
 
My point was that the clock starts ticking when the engine is first started coming out of the crate, not on the day you pick it up. Most folks will not ride a Spyder far enough to use the mileage limits for oil changes. Plan on annual service for most. The OP is purchasing used, not new out of the crate. To be really sure, he would need the original in service date. I would change it now and start off right. I also like to get break in oil out of the engine sooner than BRP does.
...............................................................How do you know BRP is using " break-in oil ", and recommending you leave it in for 3000 miles...............I doubt it's different from what BRP normally uses....................jmho.........Mike :thumbup:[/QUOTE]


Did not mean to imply that the original fill was any different than the low quality fluid sold in the bottles. Its 'break in oil' because it is the oil in the engine during its break in, not because its a different type of oil. Special break in oils are rarely used today. No manufacture that I know of still uses them.
 
HOW you break in a motor is WAY more important than the brand of oil used during break in IMHO.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
DIMPLE VS. GOLD PLUG BRAND

Also, if you're going to do you own oil changes get a set of Dimple magnetic oil drain plugs. The OEM ones are soft and difficult to work with.
.....Both are stainless steel and both have powerful magnets .................HOWEVER - Gold Plug is about 40 % less expensive....Mike :thumbup:
 
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