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Changed the oil & both filters, now it's got Shifting Issues! Ideas?
- Thread starter cjr00
- Start date
Little Blue
SpyderLovers Ambassador
:chat:....Just a thought on your oil change.
How many miles are on your Spyder?
Any issues doing this service?
I hope you used the Correct Specs on oil.
Any chance of o-ring damage?
More information would be greatly appreciated.
I have changed my oil and filter and not had any problems.
Over to you. ....:thumbup:
How many miles are on your Spyder?
Any issues doing this service?
I hope you used the Correct Specs on oil.
Any chance of o-ring damage?
More information would be greatly appreciated.
I have changed my oil and filter and not had any problems.
Over to you. ....:thumbup:
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BajaRon
Well-known member
You do not need BUDS for an HCM filter change. We've done hundreds (and we have BUDS). You do need to let the bike idle for a minute or so without revving the engine, shifting gears, etc., to allow the system to fill and not force air into components. But this is a good idea anytime you change oil in any vehicle. Assuming that you used a compatible lubricant, how many miles have you ridden since the oil change?
We've also had customers insert the oil filter backwards. This will give the bike fits.
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Purchased the oil and filter (this filter fits either way, doesn't it?) from a dealership; HCM filter from Lamonster (pretty sure it will only go on one way); bikes got 25,000 miles on it; less than 100 miles since oil change; I've done the engine oil and filter before no problem, and everything went smoothly this time also...
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BajaRon
Well-known member
You're right. The 1330 filters cannot be installed wrong. I hope you can get this worked out.
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Little Blue
SpyderLovers Ambassador
You say that the Spyder has 25,000 miles on it now. So is this the first transmission filter service? There are o-rings on the transmission filter. I can't recall if an o-ring maybe able to fall off or something else.
So a key to this puzzle is checking out the installation of the transmission filter.
If you're not able to check this out, maybe a call to your local dealer might be a help.
Or someone on the Spyder Forum.
So a key to this puzzle is checking out the installation of the transmission filter.
If you're not able to check this out, maybe a call to your local dealer might be a help.
Or someone on the Spyder Forum.
TheMariner
Active member
OK, crazy idea time.
Did you lift your Spyder under its balance point to do the oil change using one of those ATV lifts? Don't suppose you accidentally placed the lift too far back and bent the cover over the gear shifting mechanism on the LHS?
Did you lift your Spyder under its balance point to do the oil change using one of those ATV lifts? Don't suppose you accidentally placed the lift too far back and bent the cover over the gear shifting mechanism on the LHS?
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No, I don't lift it at all for the oil change... Thanks for the thought.
Guess I'll just wait for the recall on the main shaft to be done. I imagine they'll be changing the oil and filters as part of it. See how it behaves then...
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CloverHill
Member
Did you let the engine run for about 30-60 minutes after changing both filters to let it purge? If you did not do this, it may be causing your issues.
You have to purge it for at least 30 minutes before you can ride after a HCM filter change.
You have to purge it for at least 30 minutes before you can ride after a HCM filter change.
acdcking12
Member
Never heard of such a thing. Literally let it idle for 30 minutes before riding? I did my own HCM filter change, and let it idle for a few minutes and then went on my way without issues.
CloverHill
Member
Yea, you are supposed to let it idle for about 30 minutes to make sure all of the air is purged if you do not have buds to assist with the purge, since things get dirty during the change I just let it run while I was washing and drying and it came up to a little under 60 minutes, not required but it was enough to ensure it was purged.
BajaRon
Well-known member
That is what we do at the shop. Do it all day long. Never had an issue. Long idle times are very hard on an engine. I've got a feeling that this issue may turn out to be something else. Or, we may never know. It may just fix itself. Interesting though.
PW2013STL
Active member
I haven't timed it, but since you need to bring the oil up to operating temperature to check the level. I let it idle until the fans come on then turn it off and check. Never had an issue.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Your coolant is at operating temperature, but your oil will not be anywhere close unless you ride it. The combustion process at the top of the cylinder is all that is creating heat at idle. That heats the coolant, but not the oil. Riding the machine creates heat in the lower end of the engine and transmission. This is what heats the oil. It also acts to fill all the cavities and mechanisms (like the SE shifting components). This is really the only way to get an accurate engine oil level reading.
A dry sump lubricating system is quite forgiving for underfilling, though it is not ideal to do so. But it is quite unforgiving for overfilling. Somewhat opposite for a wet sump as long as you don't overfill to the point where the crank splashes into the oil.
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