Can I use Mobil1 10W/40 Synthetic oil (Not MC) in my Spyder?

[troop]

Look at your API Service symbol on your bottle. This example is from a 5w20 oil. If the lower bar shows energy conserving, do not use in your wet clutch m/c. I doubt your M1 10w40 oil has energy conserving on it. ALL oils have friction modifiers of some sort. Not all are bad. M/C specific oils tend to have higher levels of zinc and phosphorous. They're also formulated to shear less quickly due to being used in motor/clutch/tranny. Will the M1 10w40 work in your Spyder? Sure. Will it be the best oil to use? No

 

[Possible]

:agree: and I have bought it on sale for about $ 5.55 per quart ...... Mike :thumbup:

You betcha, I just picked up a gallon of T6 a couple weeks ago for Peggy's Spyder and it was $22. Quite a few people run this oil
in their bikes, not just Spyders.

 

[Possible]

My apology, I did not realize you were talking about a '13 STS SM5 and not your RT. Had I known I would have left off the last two sentences. That said, IMO, following the operator's guide is still the wisest practice concerning the recommended API service codes and I agree with voting with one's wallet as one chooses.

No problems, I probably wasn't as clear as I should have been. Happens to me sometimes.

 

[ulflyer]

Sandylolee: I think most of us use a synthetic oil that is Jaso Ma/Ma2 rated. You can find these at Walmart: Mobil1 and Valvoline in 10-40 or Rotella T6 5-40. There is an Amsoil distributor near Kernersville that I know of. Or you might want to order a change kit from BajaRon that will include the Amsoil and filters.

FWIW, I recently came across are report on BITOG where a guy with a '16 F3L, 29K miles on it, changed his Amsoil with 9,600 miles on it; the Blackstone oil report showed it still good and recommended he try 12K next change. I know some folks can run their 1330's that long but I get in a dither if it gets to 5K. LOL

 

[RICZ]

Before my Spyder, I had a Victory with the 106" engine. Once, I had inadvertently skipped an oil change and had about 8K+ miles on that Rotella T6. Curious if I had gone past that oil's use by date, I sent a sample into Blackstone for analysis. The report came back stating there were no anomalies and it was good for another 2500+ miles.
One thing I like about T6 is its base viscosity is 5W. That provides for faster circulation cold and quicker filling of the hydraulic lifters. With the viscosity that Victory recommends, the lifters would clatter for a bit until filled.

 

[Possible]

Base viscosity is 5W? I'm not an expert, but I don't think so. I'm not sure what you mean by base viscosity, as
I'm pretty sure the "out of the bottle" viscosity will be much more than 5W. But I've been wrong before.

And perhaps we are thinking of different things. That's happened before.

 

[RICZ]

Base viscosity is 5W? I'm not an expert, but I don't think so. I'm not sure what you mean by base viscosity, as I'm pretty sure the "out of the bottle" viscosity will be much more than 5W. But I've been wrong before.

I was referring to what's on the label - 5W-40 it sez.

 

[Possible]

I see. The 5W means the oil will perform like a 5 weight oil at low temperatures, i.e. flow better than an oil with a higher number
before the W. But will perform like a 40 weight oil at normal operating temperatures, offering "better" protection that an oil with a
lower number after the W.

Consider that 3-In-One oil is considered to be a 20 weight oil, so a 5 weight oil would be really, really "thin".

 

[RICZ]

Consider that 3-In-One oil is considered to be a 20 weight oil, so a 5 weight oil would be really, really "thin".

Not thin for long. As soon as it begins to warm, it gets more thick.

 

[sandylolee]

Thanks for the info. I changed mine with the reg change kit at 3500. When I change next time I thing I’ll use mobile 1.

 

[RICZ]

When I change next time I thing I’ll use mobile 1.

Which Mobil 1? Car or Motorcycle?

 

[Navydad]

You betcha, I just picked up a gallon of T6 a couple weeks ago for Peggy's Spyder and it was $22. Quite a few people run this oil
in their bikes, not just Spyders.

Rebate going on until the end of October. I have $34 in the two and a half gallon jug after rebate.

 

[Possible]

Oh my, that is a good deal. I need to check out that rebate. Maybe get some more for the next oil change.

Thank you for the heads up.

 

[sandylolee]

They do have a motorcycle oil I have used it in my vtx. It cost more then the car grade and I couldn’t tell any difference.

 

[sandylolee]

RICZ that is the question I was asking. I have used the car 10w40 non energy conserving in my vtx over 30,000 miles with no problems. So can I use the same in the spyder?

 

[sandylolee]

Look at your API Service symbol on your bottle. This example is from a 5w20 oil. If the lower bar shows energy conserving, do not use in your wet clutch m/c. I doubt your M1 10w40 oil has energy conserving on it. ALL oils have friction modifiers of some sort. Not all are bad. M/C specific oils tend to have higher levels of zinc and phosphorous. They're also formulated to shear less quickly due to being used in motor/clutch/tranny. Will the M1 10w40 work in your Spyder? Sure. Will it be the best oil to use? No

What would be your choice for oil?

 

[ButterSmooth]

What would be your choice for oil?

I use Rotella T6, Ma2 rated for wet clutches, full synthetic. ~$20 a gallon at Walmart. I use it in everthing...
I also send my change samples to Blackstone Labs and have never seen a reason to use anything else. And I thought I'd NEVER respond to an oil thread... SMN

On a further note, if you want to know about things like 'base number', go to 'Bob is the oil guy' and learn about oil. Conventional (dinosaur) oils and synthetic oils are different in this (base number) respect. Multigrade dino oils have a base number reflected in the first (low) number and use polymeric chains to thicken the oil as it heats up. Synthetic oils use the higher (second) number as the base and perform at lower temperatures as the lower (first) indicates, as formulated when they are created. The polymeric chains are subject to shear and the oil gets thinner (break down) with use. Synthetic also loses viscosity with use, but not as severely as dino oil. If you choose to use dino oil (or a blend) change it more frequently than synthetic and avoid the cold.

 

[RICZ]

SANDYLOLEE....It was said before, it's your bike and your choice to make for what oil you put in your Spyder. The differences between car oil and oil that is rated for MCs is significant - the additive packages differ. The reason I began using Rotella T6 is it is not only JASO MA2 rated, it is blended for use in Diesel engines with a compression ratio of 22:1, putting extreme demands on an oil. My theory is, if it stands up to Diesels, it will stand taller in an engine with half the compression ratio. I can not state this any better.
Good luck with whatever you use.

 

[sandylolee]

Thanks to all for the info.

 

[troop]

What would be your choice for oil?

I'm currently using M1 10w40 4T motorcycle oil. Can't go wrong with Amsoil 10w40 m/c oil either. If you opt for Shell Rotella T6, I'd go for the 15w40 version over the 5w40 version. The 5w40 is notorious for shearing down in grade. Not the best choice IMHO. Since BRP recommends 5w40, I'd stick with 10w40 full synthetic.
This is a great price on (6) quarts of 10w50 oil. I wouldn't hesitate to use it.
https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-Powe...pY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
Want to stick to OEM recommended 5w40 ? Here ...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MISDII/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza