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Bought a Primo 6x12 trailer today.

I used the the E-tracks and the same straps that you ordered. But I also use E-chocks as well.
 

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It's all looking pretty good! :ohyea:

Just a word of caution tho - be a little wary of putting too much weight forward of the trailer axle &/or on the drawbar, cos that WILL increase the download on the tow tongue/hitch, possibly beyond what is good for safe towing when the trailer is loaded (10-15% tongue weight MAX is what's recommended by many) - besides, there will very likely be times you need to tow the trailer empty, so all that extra weight on the drawbar transfers directly onto the hitch, making the tongue weight exceed the towed weight in a way that could well make towing downright dangerous!! :shocked:

So just sayin' - keep that Maximum tongue weight in mind while you're planning on increasing the drawbar load/ static weight in front of the trailer axle! :thumbup:

I will load the spyder and measure tongue weight with empty boxes as a starting point. The 2020 Ford Edge ST will have mostly cloths, it is rated to tow 3500 pounds and 350 pounds tongue weight. I will most likely be in the 2000-2200 lbs range. The primary use will be to take stuff and the Spyder between Arizona and Washington State. The load should be the same most of the time. The second box will be for tie downs etc. I have RC airplane radios, flight box, batteries, riding gear, Honda EU2000i and such to take back and forth. Chris
 
OK, the diamond plate box(60 x 24 x 21/5) arrived today and I got it installed. I put a 1/4" blue exercise mat between the trailer bed and the box. I have 10' front the box to the ramp. I am going to try to position the spyder so the frunk can be opened. Front wheel strap downs got delayed from Lowes until next Friday. Good price with military vet discount. May work on another box on the tongue in the mean time. Little tricky bolting things down without help, will recruit help for the trike tie downs. Chris

Opens to front of trailer:
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Hold down bolts
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Underside:
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Beer time:
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I removed the front OEM tie downs and will be installing them somewhere else on the trailer bed, most likely behind the box somewhere for friends that want to move their golf carts between Show Low and Gold Canyon, spring and fall. Insurance on the trailer is a rider on the Spyder's policy.

Note: Because of the bed framing layout I was unable to create the bolt down location of the box as symmetrical, so the box could easily be turned around the other direction.
 
OK, had to take the spare tire off via the mount and haul it to the dealer. The guy putting it together yesterday used an impact driver tightening the spare lug nuts onto the SS bolts. SS is a soft medal and galls easily. All third were toast, and they replaced them and coated them with anti-seize.

So with the mount they provide for the spare, it was only 5.5" about the ground, so I spent most to the rest of the day raising the tire higher. I found a 5/8" x 10" x10" aluminum plate at a recycle yard for 10 bucks. I cut it in half and drill the mounting holes for 1/2" SS bolts. Cut the left over half down to be a plate on the other side of the 3"x3" frame rail. Drill the four matching holes in the up end of the first plate to bolt the mount to. One of the bolts galled on be, so I will have to get another tomorrow. I have not measured it in the new location, it was raised 4+" and has lots of clearance to the ground now. Chris

Spare tire clearance to ground now with the trailer level.

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Next project, I picked up a small diamond plate box for the tongue yesterday. I will use this box for tie down straps, tools, hydraulic jack etc. Had some spacers to clear the jack mount. I think I will drill and tap threaded holes in the aluminum frame to bolt it down for inside the box.

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I have an Aluma and set it up to haul the RT among other things. I had 2 stainless chocks made at a local shop for less than 100 and bolted them down once I figured out the position for best tongue weight. The ones you have selected will work, but I like these since it is pretty easy to drive into them and they do most of the work holding the bike on the trailer. I use some straps through the front A arms to tie downs and one strap on the rear wheel to keep the bike from lifting up in a panic stop.

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Which Aluma trailer is that?
 
Loaded up the spyder to mark location of the E-track rear and E-track wheel stops front. The trailer has 180 lbs of tongue weight(right at 10%) as pictured and will be more when I fill the big box. There will be a couple hundred pounds stuff that will go in the boxes. So I am going to leave it back far enough to be able to open the frunk.

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OK, I reinstall the front tie downs behind the big box 24" in from the trailer sides. I strapped the rear tire down to ramp hinges(which are much more robust than the trailer bed tie downs), and double up on the front from my eyelets of the lower shock bolts and took it for a test spin up to 70 MPH to make sure it towed OK. I could see the rear suspension on the Spyder working on bumpy sections of road. Overall I am a happy trucker! The 2020 Ford Edge ST Twin Turbo 2.7L seemed to handle it fine. The ST is a Ford Performance product with a much stiffer suspension then the other 4 cylinder SE, SEL and Titanium models. I thing I have a winner. With 380 lb ft of torque and 335 hp it should get the job done. Chris

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Snoking can I make one recommendation to add to your trailer? It is a beautiful setup! Since your top door on the large metal chest opens from the front, never trust those latches. I’d take a round 36 inch soft bungee and “while driving” hook the bungee around the front rail over the top of the box and into one of the tie down rings on the bed. Just in case it was to unlatch and the wind wipes the door open, the bungee would keep it from folding back onto your hood of the spyder. Just a safety thought. I’ve seen it happen on a bumper pull RV trailer . It cracked the fiberglass nose all up.
 
Snoking can I make one recommendation to add to your trailer? It is a beautiful setup! Since your top door on the large metal chest opens from the front, never trust those latches. I’d take a round 36 inch soft bungee and “while driving” hook the bungee around the front rail over the top of the box and into one of the tie down rings on the bed. Just in case it was to unlatch and the wind wipes the door open, the bungee would keep it from folding back onto your hood of the spyder. Just a safety thought. I’ve seen it happen on a bumper pull RV trailer . It cracked the fiberglass nose all up.

Thanks for the suggestion. I will do that, or maybe better a ratchet strap or two, less give! I did a lot of think about which way to position the box. This way offers better walk up access. Thanks Chris
 
There’s no problem how you did it. Agree fast access. If you use a ratchet get the some knee high length soccer socks. Cut the toe off and run the strap through that sock to not scratch that new shiny box. In 2 years it will begin to oxidize from sun and rain. then don’t worry about the sock at that point. It’s so pretty right now don’t scuff it up.
 
Latest update: Check pin weight and did a test tow yesterday. Today I checked hitch weight again and then put the 48.8 lb generator in the box. The pin weight went from 191 to 221. So 61% of the generator weight went on the hitch. So I could still load about 210 lbs of stuff in the box and be within the Edge 350 lb hitch weight limit.

I install the first set of front chocks also. Chris

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Your method for attaching brackets using L shaped aluminum is exactly how I did it too. Makes for a good, strong installation. I have just one wheel chock (front) for my Goldwing trike. It is a ride-into that cradles the front tire both front and back. My trike did not move one bit on an 1,800 mile trip. And I-10 east of El Paso has got to be the pot hole capitol of the world. And, I do not have a parking brake. The trike was in neutral. I think you can have a lot of confidence in your trailer set up..... :2thumbs: Jim
 
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Your method for attaching brackets using L shaped aluminum is exactly how I did it too. Makes for a good, strong installation. I have just one wheel chock (front) for my Goldwing trike. It is a ride-into that cradles the front tire both front and back. My trike did not move one bit on an 1,800 mile trip. And I-10 east of El Paso has got to be the pot hole capitol of the world. And, I do not have a parking brake. The trike was in neutral. I think you can have a lot of confidence in your trailer set up..... :2thumbs: Jim

The L shaped aluminum came about via your suggestion. Down to the rear E-track. I did not like the cheapy I bought so reorder another one, which should be here tomorrow. Chris

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I set up my Aluma MC210 this way and it worked like a dream - until I tried to back off! Rear wheel just spun. It took two of us to rock my F3-T so it would climb over the back chocks! I took the back chocks off and bolted down etrack instead. Now it really works great! Depending on the traction of the trailer deck you might not need to do this. It would be a good idea to order more etrack just in case.
 
I set up my Aluma MC210 this way and it worked like a dream - until I tried to back off! Rear wheel just spun. It took two of us to rock my F3-T so it would climb over the back chocks! I took the back chocks off and bolted down etrack instead. Now it really works great! Depending on the traction of the trailer deck you might not need to do this. It would be a good idea to order more etrack just in case.

I will put my 222 pounds in the back seat for traction!!!! I was told not the use these chocks on the rear wheel for that reason. RU saying it would not pull the front wheels over the humps? The rear is getting just an 24" E-track and strap.

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I only had the chocks on the front wheels and I couldn’t get backed out. I’m 6’3” and 225!
 
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