It's all looking pretty good!hyea:
Just a word of caution tho - be a little wary of putting too much weight forward of the trailer axle &/or on the drawbar, cos that WILL increase the download on the tow tongue/hitch, possibly beyond what is good for safe towing when the trailer is loaded (10-15% tongue weight MAX is what's recommended by many) - besides, there will very likely be times you need to tow the trailer empty, so all that extra weight on the drawbar transfers directly onto the hitch, making the tongue weight exceed the towed weight in a way that could well make towing downright dangerous!! :shocked:
So just sayin' - keep that Maximum tongue weight in mind while you're planning on increasing the drawbar load/ static weight in front of the trailer axle! :thumbup:
OK, the diamond plate box(60 x 24 x 21/5) arrived today and I got it installed. I put a 1/4" blue exercise mat between the trailer bed and the box. I have 10' front the box to the ramp. I am going to try to position the spyder so the frunk can be opened. Front wheel strap downs got delayed from Lowes until next Friday. Good price with military vet discount. May work on another box on the tongue in the mean time. Little tricky bolting things down without help, will recruit help for the trike tie downs. Chris
Opens to front of trailer:
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Hold down bolts
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Underside:
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Beer time:
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OK, had to take the spare tire off via the mount and haul it to the dealer. The guy putting it together yesterday used an impact driver tightening the spare lug nuts onto the SS bolts. SS is a soft medal and galls easily. All third were toast, and they replaced them and coated them with anti-seize.
So with the mount they provide for the spare, it was only 5.5" about the ground, so I spent most to the rest of the day raising the tire higher. I found a 5/8" x 10" x10" aluminum plate at a recycle yard for 10 bucks. I cut it in half and drill the mounting holes for 1/2" SS bolts. Cut the left over half down to be a plate on the other side of the 3"x3" frame rail. Drill the four matching holes in the up end of the first plate to bolt the mount to. One of the bolts galled on be, so I will have to get another tomorrow. I have not measured it in the new location, it was raised 4+" and has lots of clearance to the ground now. Chris
I have an Aluma and set it up to haul the RT among other things. I had 2 stainless chocks made at a local shop for less than 100 and bolted them down once I figured out the position for best tongue weight. The ones you have selected will work, but I like these since it is pretty easy to drive into them and they do most of the work holding the bike on the trailer. I use some straps through the front A arms to tie downs and one strap on the rear wheel to keep the bike from lifting up in a panic stop.
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Looks great Chris.....
Snoking can I make one recommendation to add to your trailer? It is a beautiful setup! Since your top door on the large metal chest opens from the front, never trust those latches. I’d take a round 36 inch soft bungee and “while driving” hook the bungee around the front rail over the top of the box and into one of the tie down rings on the bed. Just in case it was to unlatch and the wind wipes the door open, the bungee would keep it from folding back onto your hood of the spyder. Just a safety thought. I’ve seen it happen on a bumper pull RV trailer . It cracked the fiberglass nose all up.
Your method for attaching brackets using L shaped aluminum is exactly how I did it too. Makes for a good, strong installation. I have just one wheel chock (front) for my Goldwing trike. It is a ride-into that cradles the front tire both front and back. My trike did not move one bit on an 1,800 mile trip. And I-10 east of El Paso has got to be the pot hole capitol of the world. And, I do not have a parking brake. The trike was in neutral. I think you can have a lot of confidence in your trailer set up..... :2thumbs: Jim
I set up my Aluma MC210 this way and it worked like a dream - until I tried to back off! Rear wheel just spun. It took two of us to rock my F3-T so it would climb over the back chocks! I took the back chocks off and bolted down etrack instead. Now it really works great! Depending on the traction of the trailer deck you might not need to do this. It would be a good idea to order more etrack just in case.