BLEED BRAKES

[SpyderJerry]

Bleed Brakes

You need to also bleed the VCM, just as you do the calipers. More than likley reason for mushy brakes. Only other reason would be a sticky caliper, slides or piston.

 

[SPYD3R]

WHAT

You need to also bleed the VCM, just as you do the calipers. More than likley reason for mushy brakes. Only other reason would be a sticky caliper, slides or piston.

JERRY;
WHAT IS THE 'VCM'....?
WHERE IS THE 'VCM'....?
Dan P
SPYD3R

 

[JKMSPYDER]

vehicle control module

Dan, VCM stands for Vehicle Control Module but I don't know where it is. As Billy Bovine said, you don't need BUDS to bleed the brakes but if you do it yourself there will still be a little bit of old fluid left in the system. If the dealer does it with BUDS, all of the old fluid will be flushed out.

 

[SpyderJerry]

Bleed Brakes

The VCN (Vehicle Control Module) is located to the left of the steering box. There is a full explination in the service manual in the maintenance and chassisi, vehicle stability section. When I rebuilt my 2013 rt, that was a crashed unit. I had to do a complete frame replacement. When bleeding the brakes at all four bleeders, it cleaned up fast and had full firm pedal. I did not need Buds hooked up to do this. Also made sure key was off and never depredded pedal completely.

 

[SPYD3R]

THANX

The VCN (Vehicle Control Module) is located to the left of the steering box. There is a full explination in the service manual in the maintenance and chassisi, vehicle stability section. When I rebuilt my 2013 rt, that was a crashed unit. I had to do a complete frame replacement. When bleeding the brakes at all four bleeders, it cleaned up fast and had full firm pedal. I did not need Buds hooked up to do this. Also made sure key was off and never depredded pedal completely.

THANX Jerry.... u da man....
Dan

 

[JayBros]

The VCN (Vehicle Control Module) is located to the left of the steering box. There is a full explination in the service manual in the maintenance and chassisi, vehicle stability section...

Thanks for the location of the VCM information, Jerry. It's a busy piece of equipment.

 

[SpyderConvert]

Bleeding Brakes

I am a firm believer in changing out the brake fluid every 2 years and bleeding the brakes is vital to the procedure. Almost all of my motorcycles have had the brake lines changed over to the stainless steel-wrapped lines because, over time, the pressure in those "rubber" OEM lines will stretch/deform and make brakes feel mushy as they stretch under the pressure in the lines. Am I wrong in this??

 

[Navydad]

Nope you're not wrong on that. The rubber lines also have a liner on the inside that can break down with time and old fluid. When this happens the liner can impede the flow of the fluid and can cause all sorts of goofy things to happen. Usually applying the brakes won't be an issue but when you release the brakes the fluid can't retreat because of the blockage and you have brakes not releasing fully. As the rubber lines age they slowly break down and become porous enough to allow moisture into the system. Moisture will cause mushy brakes and if you are riding and braking hard this moisture will heat at a lower temp than brake fluid and then expand and cause goofy things to happen. This is more of a problem on two wheelers at race track speeds and braking, but I have seen it on street bikes with badly neglected brake systems. I was on Deals Gap last year on my old Honda and a guy rolled up on a full dress HD. The bike would barely roll as the brakes were almost locked and VERY hot. I did about all I could do in the parking lot and loosened the bleeders enough to release some pressure and told him to let it cool a bit. Stuff that came out looked like pancake syrup. I asked him when the brake fluid was last changed. He looked at me like I had three eyes, man didn't have a clue what I was talking about. He had big $$$ in chrome and lights plus all the new leather hanging on his back and his first question was "what would that cost me?" "Uh, maybe your life?" All kinds of neat info out there to make your bike go faster, but not so much info on how to make it stop better. I think the two kind of go together don't you?

 

[JayBros]

IMO, the best justification for changing brake fluid every two years is because it's hygroscopic. In addition to some of the rubber components breaking down with their constant exposure to brake fluid, who wants water in the system?

 

[SPYD3R]

DONE

OK, tomorrow i bleed the brake system on my 2015 F3 for the 1st time....I'm of the opinion that the sequence for bleeding is: rear, left front and lastly the right front caliper.... am i correct...?anyone have any additional tips....thanx in advance....Dan PSPYD3R

OK, so i didn't do it the next day.... sorry...but i did do it today, 2 Jan. 2018....got a vacuum pump kit from HF, which worked excellently.... a new bottle of DOT4 Brake Fluid... half hour of labor (us old guys take longer, since the floor is so far away)... after buttoning up & cleaning up, i saddled up and went for a short ride (in 20F temps) to make sure all was well..... results were a 100% TOTAL success... giddy up.....Dan PSPYD3R

 

[lebon]

bleed the VCM?

curious if you bled the VCM as well?

 

[SPYD3R]

NO

curious if you bled the VCM as well?

NO.....
i purged no less than 20 oz. of fluid thru the system without tapping into the VCM... took her for a ride, and NO CODES or any other ill effects... and i'm here to tell you that the fluid that came out, was as clear as that that went in... yes, i know the old fluid absorbs moisture, but it was still clear....
Dan P
SPYD3R

 

[lebon]

Cool, glad it worked out. I want to do my 2013 ST. Have the shop manual to help along the way and when I saw it talking about having to do the VCM and also hook up to the BUDS I got all... oh no! But it sounds like other folk like yourself have done it without much hiccups. :clap:

 

[oldgoat]

NO.....
i purged no less than 20 oz. of fluid thru the system without tapping into the VCM... took her for a ride, and NO CODES or any other ill effects... and i'm here to tell you that the fluid that came out, was as clear as that that went in... yes, i know the old fluid absorbs moisture, but it was still clear....
Dan P
SPYD3R

I bleed my 3 calipers every winter. The fluid has always been clear & just about colorless like the new stuff going in.
Have never done a complete fluid exchange.
The Spyder is an '08 GS SM5. I also change out the clutch fluid at the same time & that is always clear & almost colorless as well.

I wonder what has been going on in the braking & clutch systems of those who report dirty, dark fluid coming out?

 

[pauly1]

I bled the ABS system on my 2016 2-wheeler with a vacuum system as Dan used. There are two discs on the front and one on the back. Bled the longest line first (front left disc), followed by the front right and finished with the rear. Only a moderate discoloration was noted in the brake fluid. The hydraulic clutch was a different story: it was a dark gray color with sediment in the fluid reservoir.

The brake purge sequence using the BUDS causes the valves to shift which bleeding the system, providing clean fluid to the valves. The manual states:
1. manual bleed the front left, front right, rear, then manual bleed of the VCM
2. BUDS bleed the VCM front circuit, then rear circuit
3. repeat of the sequence in step 1
4. validate system pressure

So presumably the open valve position is purge but not the block position or pressure build circuit. But then the calipers don't get bled, do they?

Wayne

 

[Grayfox]

THANX Jerry.... u da man....
Dan

My dealer want's at least 300.00 to bleed the brakes on my 2012 rt. Sounds high to me. My dealer is Honda of Winston Salem N. C.

 

[JKMSPYDER]

FLUSH BRAKES

Wow! My dealer in Greenville, SC only charged me $95 to bleed and refill the brake system on my F3-S.

 

[Wildrice]

OK, tomorrow i bleed the brake system on my 2015 F3 for the 1st time....
I'm of the opinion that the sequence for bleeding is: rear, left front and lastly the right front caliper.... am i correct...?
anyone have any additional tips....
thanx in advance....
Dan P
SPYD3R

There are several pieces of equipment from pressure to vacuum bleeder of you doing this by yourself. If you have a friend that can depress the brake pedal while you open the bleeder valve you will be just fine. Like someone else said..Start from the farthest wheel to the brake master cylinder & work forward--etc. Might be a good idea to completely replace all the brake fluid & eliminate moisture. Same procedure--just make sure the master cylinder doesn't go empty while bleeding. suck the existing dirty fluid out of the master cycl & replace it with new brake fluid before you start the bleeding process---you will notice a color change when the old dirty fluid starts looking clean on each wheel. We never did one on a Spyder but we did a several hundred on all model cars & trucks--it's all the same.
Darrell

 

[Ryan12]

Brake bleed

Does that mean the VCM has a bleeder port? I would think the little fluid that is left would dilute into the fresh new fluid.

 

[SpyderConvert]

I've seen one-way valves that attach to the bleeder port on calipers, has anyone tried them??