Belt tension

[GearHd]

Correct. Go in small turns, 1/8-1/4 turn at a time. Those adjusters being that loose probably didn't help your tension changing when you tightened the axle. Any time you have to loosen an adjuster I'd tap the axle forward.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Thanks. I will try this! I could get the tension spot in but as soon as I tightened that axel it was all she wrote!

Just to make sure I understand this. If I need to loosen the tension it's turning the left hand bolt anti clockwise and then I should also have to turn the right belt bolt anti clockwise? Also, should I get my tension correct first before messing with the belt bolt?

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I fought the exact same problem as you're having. Go here to see what I finally ended up doing to get the tracking to stay, and why the belt wants to move when you tighten the nuts. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...nt-Problem-amp-Question&highlight=flange+belt

 

[BajaRon]

Correct. Go in small turns, 1/8-1/4 turn at a time. Those adjusters being that loose probably didn't help your tension changing when you tightened the axle. Any time you have to loosen an adjuster I'd tap the axle forward.

I use a large dead blow hammer on the tire. Same objective. But whatever you do. You must take all slack out of the adjusters or your adjustment will be destroyed when you tighten the axle nut. Not only is this frustrating but the stress will cause your hair to fall out. :gaah:

What I like to do is set the axle nut loose enough so when I beat on my tire the axle will move. But snug enough so it doesn't move easily. I will back off the adjusters about 1/4 turn past where I think they need to be. Then I beat on my tire with the dead blow hammer taking the slack out. (I enjoy this part for some reason!) You can tell if you've gotten all the slack out of the adjusters by attempting to turn them counter-clockwise with your fingers. If you can turn them you need to beat on the tire more (or whatever method you're using), or loosen your axle nut just a bit. Then I can set tension by tightening the adjusters instead of loosening them. This process removes as much slop from the components as possible which eliminates as much change to the adjustment as possible when you tighten the axle.

 

[manman007]

Ugh what am I doing wrong here? My belt always ends up like this.

and it seems the belt alignment piece is loose

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look like on the right side need reverse screw for a little bit make both side are even

 

[Brogers57]

Thank you all for this. It will help me in a few hours hopefully!


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[Brogers57]

Welp 180 on the ground. The trick was tightening the axel and hitting the wheel forward. Thank you all for helping!

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[GearHd]

I thought you checked tension with the wheel in the air?

 

[Brogers57]

It was about 145-150 ish in the air which I believe the new BRP tst calls for 141 in the air. With a rider on the bike it checks in around 200ish.


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[claychaser]

2013 ST BELT TENSION

These are the numbers I've gone by that BajaRon had posted.

THANKS for all the good discussion.
I am changing out my rear tire tomorrow on my 2013 ST. All the discussion has been for earlier models.
So...my in air belt tension should be between 202 and 236 it sounds like.
HAS anything changed with BRP or users since all this good info has been posted?
THANKS!
ANDY

 

[GearHd]

From what I've seen recently the numbers have been drastically reduced to something like 140-180.

 

[Roadster Renovations]

Also, when tightening the axle, only tighten the nut. That will help to keep the setting in place. Ride in increasing distances after adjustment to make sure it tracks correct. Do not back up and check it, as this will not give an accurate read. Good Luck!

 

[Richardv]

Latest update..... tech sheet...

THANKS for all the good discussion.
I am changing out my rear tire tomorrow on my 2013 ST. All the discussion has been for earlier models.
So...my in air belt tension should be between 202 and 236 it sounds like.
HAS anything changed with BRP or users since all this good info has been posted?
THANKS!
ANDY

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

From what I've seen recently the numbers have been drastically reduced to something like 140-180.

Based on the technical service bulletin the range is about 140 to 236, whatever works to keep the vibration at a level and speed range that makes you happy.

 

[claychaser]

Belt Tension follow up.

Based on the technical service bulletin the range is about 140 to 236, whatever works to keep the vibration at a level and speed range that makes you happy.

Is that measured with the rear wheel off the ground?

Thanks
Andy

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Is that measured with the rear wheel off the ground?

Thanks
Andy

Yes. Off the ground with the swing arm hanging at max shock extension is the only way to know for certain you are in a consistently repeatable physical configuration, particularly bike to bike which is what the service manual has to address. The tension changes with swing arm movement so measuring it with the wheel on the ground can give varying readings depending on air pressure in the shock. I suppose if you released all the air out of the shock every time you measured the tension with the wheel on the ground you could get somewhat repeatable readings. Determine the method and tension that works for you and stick with it.

 

[BigGuy66]

I read about the SmoothSpyder in this thread. Is that a recommended install regardless of vibration issues? Where do I get one? (I am a Newbie Ryder). 2010 RT SM5


Ryde, eat, sleep... Repeat

 

[AeroPilot]

Ryde, eat, sleep... Repeat

Never felt the vibration with our 2011 SM5 RT. I wouldn't worry unless I just FELT the need to change something. Even with the 2015's we only have a minor "to us" vibe around the 75-78 mph range.

I concur... Ryde, eat, sleep...Repeat.

 

[irvin48]

just got my kricket. belt tension is about 220#. wheel off the ground. irv

 

[claychaser]

Belt tension coming togeter

Yes. Off the ground with the swing arm hanging at max shock extension is the only way to know for certain you are in a consistently repeatable physical configuration, particularly bike to bike which is what the service manual has to address. The tension changes with swing arm movement so measuring it with the wheel on the ground can give varying readings depending on air pressure in the shock. I suppose if you released all the air out of the shock every time you measured the tension with the wheel on the ground you could get somewhat repeatable readings. Determine the method and tension that works for you and stick with it.

Greetings!

Thanks again for all the solid advice. I do not have an adjustable shock, so extending the shock to the end point will be a good reference point.

Changed out the rear tire and am waiting for the dealer to get in the o ring in.

Thanks again! Andy

 

[Gordy]

To convert newtons to psi multiply by .2243