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Belt tension question, maybe clarity

Warlock

Warlock

New member
I have read just about all the post on checking belt tension. My question is, what is the magic number on the kritie (sp) gauge? Is this number with the wheel on the ground or jacked up? Seems a lot of good info but none stating this is a good guide line to go by. I have heard anywhere from 140 to 180. So just wondering.
Thanks, David
 
Belt tension is correctly checked with a sonic gauge, with the Spyder jacked up, taking an average of three readings at approximately equal distances on the belt. The Krikit readings have no direct correlation, and a Krikit baseline is best done by taking readings after the belt has been properly adjusted by a dealer.

Those weasel words aside, most owners check the Krikit reading on the ground (tension is higher). Readings on the ground are typically in the range you mention, although some prefer slightly higher readings to reduce vibration. For my Spyders, the correlation to the sonic gauge has actually been at 140 or lower. You should still take an average of three readings. If you jack the Spyder up, your readings would be lower. For an RTS or RT-LTD, the ACS sensor link should be disconnected before you do that to prevent you from damaging the link. (Correction: this does not have to be done if the shock isn't disconnected.) If you have an aftermarket belt tensioner, it should be backed off the belt before taking readings. The belt should only be rotated in a forward direction between the readings.
 
Last edited:
NancysToy said:
Belt tension is correctly checked with a sonic gauge, with the Spyder jacked up, taking an average of three readings at approximately equal distances on the belt. The Krikit readings have no direct correlation, and a Krikit baseline is best done by taking readings after the belt has been properly adjusted by a dealer.

Those weasel words aside, most owners check the Krikit reading on the ground (tension is higher). Readings on the ground are typically in the range you mention, although some prefer slightly higher readings to reduce vibration. For my Spyders, the correlation to the sonic gauge has actually been at 140 or lower. You should still take an average of three readings. If you jack the Spyder up, your readings would be lower. For an RTS or RT-LTD, the ACS sensor link should be disconnected before you do that to prevent you from damaging the link. If you have an aftermarket belt tensioner, it should be backed off the belt before taking readings. The belt should only be rotated in a forward direction between the readings.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply. I have noticed some vibration on my wife RTS. Planning on adding the belt tension-er sold here by one of the members.
David
 
Your wife's RTS is probably properly tensioned (or a bit low). I'd use that to get a baseline reading for the Krikit.
 
Captain Jim

Warlock said:
Thanks for the reply. I have noticed some vibration on my wife RTS. Planning on adding the belt tension-er sold here by one of the members.
David
Click to expand...

I have one of Captain Jim's belt tensioners and have been very happy with the product. There is a slight sound like a turbo that comes from the device that is a plus. Reminds me of the days of driving a big rig. Love that turbo!
 
NancysToy said:
Your wife's RTS is probably properly tensioned (or a bit low). I'd use that to get a baseline reading for the Krikit.
Click to expand...

The only problem I have here Scotty is the Spyder Community is filled with post of technicians not being competent or properly trained. TRUST is the real question. Do you trust your dealer and their mechanics?



-Mike
<Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk>
 
Quote: "If you jack the Spyder up, your readings would be lower. For an RTS or RT-LTD, the ACS sensor link should be disconnected before you do that to prevent you from damaging the link."

Quote: "The ACS sensor link does not have to be disconnected to do the tension check. The only time you disconnect it is if you are going to remove the rear shock or just removing the bottom bolt of the shock."


Is it best to disconnect it, just to be safe? If so, where is it?
 
Doc - Riverside said:
Checking or adjusting the belt tension on the RT does not require one to remove any plastic panels. What is required on all SPYDER's is to lift the rear wheel just off the ground by jacking it up by the frame just forward of the rear bottom shock mount.



If you for any reason need to remove the bolts from the rear shock you must disconnect the ACS linkage. Failing to do this prior to jacking it up will result in damaging the ACS sensor or breaking the linkage. To get to the ACS linkage you have to remove the left side panel. Pictures are a 2010RTS. I believe they changed something in the design on the 11/12's.



View attachment 60860View attachment 60861.
Click to expand...
You can get at it without removing the panel, with the right tools and the right cuss words. It's no fun, though.
 
bertmc said:
Quote: "If you jack the Spyder up, your readings would be lower. For an RTS or RT-LTD, the ACS sensor link should be disconnected before you do that to prevent you from damaging the link."

Quote: "The ACS sensor link does not have to be disconnected to do the tension check. The only time you disconnect it is if you are going to remove the rear shock or just removing the bottom bolt of the shock."


Is it best to disconnect it, just to be safe? If so, where is it?
Click to expand...


The Maintenance Manual does not require the ACS sensor to be removed on a RT. Use caution when jacking to ensure you are jacking at the frame member and not the on the lower shock.



-Mike
<Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk>
 
NancysToy said:
You can get at it without removing the panel, with the right tools and the right cuss words. It's no fun, though.
Click to expand...


Thanks. I don't plan to mess with it now, so I won't ask about the right tools. And I know you can't share the cuss words here. If I do, maybe you can PM me with the right words.
 
bertmc said:
Thanks. I don't plan to mess with it now, so I won't ask about the right tools. And I know you can't share the cuss words here. If I do, maybe you can PM me with the right words.
Click to expand...
It's more fun to make them up as you go along. :roflblack:
 
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