Is this Krikit Belt Tension still too tight?

[Gwolf]

I have run 120 - 140 via the Krikit with the vehicle loaded/sitting on the ground for over 10 years. Especially when the engine mounted drive sprockets were failing and some transmission shafts, prior to a solution from BRP. The swing arm geometry increases belt tension as it is compressed. That's why many people recommend removing the rear shock bolt to drop the swing arm while changing a tire (vs slacking off the belt tensioners). Prove it to yourself: check tension with rear wheel in the air and with the machine on the ground: the Krikit value will increase 20-30 lbs.

It is not about the belt tension. It is about the consistency of the readings.

The Can Am guidelines say to go by the manual to determine if the rear wheel should be hanging from the suspension or if it should be sitting on the floor. The belt tension numbers in the manual will depend on that.

Can Am has been wrong before and changed the numbers and other things. I guess all you can do is read the manual and then decide for yourself. That information should be in the Service And Repair Manual for your model and year. It is not likely to be the same for all Spyders because of the different belts used.

 

[Gwolf]

Well, that about reading the manual didn't help much. The manual says to use some kind of sonic Belt Tension Meter P/N 529 036 115.
When I looked up this magical device it costs over a hundred dollars as opposed to the krikit at about $25. Not only that, but BRP has none in stock and no date for back orders.

Sonic Tool

I put the zip code in to check local availability. My zip code according to their website says I am in some little town 50 or 60 miles away and my local dealer is another 50 miles up into Valdosta, Georgia, which is all wrong. It doesn't matter anyway, because they don't have the tool either.

Just another wild goose chase. I got a krikit in the toolbox. The manual is useless if you can't get the tool to do it like manual says.

Do it like you been doing it. BRP needs to get their in a row, except that ducks are currently out of stock and not sure when more will be available.

The manual does say to measure it with the rear wheel lifted off the ground, but off was miss-spelled in the manual too.

 

[2dogs]

Thank you very much Gwolf. I just made an order.

 

[pauly1]

Well, that about reading the manual didn't help much. The manual says to use some kind of sonic Belt Tension Meter P/N 529 036 115.
When I looked up this magical device it costs over a hundred dollars as opposed to the krikit at about $25. Not only that, but BRP has none in stock and no date for back orders.

Sonic Tool

I put the zip code in to check local availability. My zip code according to their website says I am in some little town 50 or 60 miles away and my local dealer is another 50 miles up into Valdosta, Georgia, which is all wrong. It doesn't matter anyway, because they don't have the tool either.

Just another wild goose chase. I got a krikit in the toolbox. The manual is useless if you can't get the tool to do it like manual says.

Do it like you been doing it. BRP needs to get their in a row, except that ducks are currently out of stock and not sure when more will be available.

The manual does say to measure it with the rear wheel lifted off the ground, but off was miss-spelled in the manual too.

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Thank you for the detailed explanations (multiple) that you have given! The sonic tool would depend on mass of the belt and tension, while looking for a frequency response. Like tuning a stringed instrument. The Krikit is a direct indication of tension, my preference; that stated, there is error in the measurement technique. In any case, 200# on the Krikit, with the rear wheel in the air, is way too tight.

Repeatability vs consistency: it is normal for the belt tension to vary as the components (sprockets and belt) move. Easily 10-20# on the Krikit can be observed: to me, that is consistency. Repeatability is the ability to get the same number when measurements are taken, e.g., with the rear wheel off the ground: but it can be repeatably too tight using the high number. (In my quality group, we regularly did studies on "Gage R&R" to ensure we understood our measurement technique and methods.)

Ps: Harley has had belt final drives for 40 years. On my Harley, we would check belt tension by twisting on the belt: 1/2 twist was good, more was too loose, less was too tight. Whether we had belt vibration/harmonics was hard to determine as the machines had/have inherent engine vibration.

 

[Gwolf]

Thank you for the detailed explanations (multiple) that you have given! The sonic tool would depend on mass of the belt and tension, while looking for a frequency response. Like tuning a stringed instrument. The Krikit is a direct indication of tension, my preference; that stated, there is error in the measurement technique. In any case, 200# on the Krikit, with the rear wheel in the air, is way too tight.

Repeatability vs consistency: it is normal for the belt tension to vary as the components (sprockets and belt) move. Easily 10-20# on the Krikit can be observed: to me, that is consistency. Repeatability is the ability to get the same number when measurements are taken, e.g., with the rear wheel off the ground: but it can be repeatably too tight using the high number. (In my quality group, we regularly did studies on "Gage R&R" to ensure we understood our measurement technique and methods.)

Ps: Harley has had belt final drives for 40 years. On my Harley, we would check belt tension by twisting on the belt: 1/2 twist was good, more was too loose, less was too tight. Whether we had belt vibration/harmonics was hard to determine as the machines had/have inherent engine vibration.

I rode Harleys and worked on them for over 30 years. Built several of them from the ground up from older Carbed models (1990s to 2001s). Belt tension on Harley belts measured with a tool to depress the belt between the pulleys with 10 pounds of force and then measure the belt deflection. Still got the tool and still got two old Harleys in a shed. Later on Harley used about the same krickit device as Can Am. Twisting the belts would not even get it close. Got between 50,000 and 100,000 miles out of most of the Harley final drive belts. All together I rode Harley Sportsters close to 400,000 miles all across the country. I really don't see any way the Harley engine vibrations could have anything to do with the readings of a harmonic measuring device, since the engine is not and cannot be running while taking the measurements. With the engine shut down the Harley engine could have no affect on harmonic readings.

My original Harley Sportster Custom Trike build is still featured on the Frankenstein Trikes Website on page 2 of the Sportster Album. It was one of the first to use the shortened 9 inch Ford differential converted to belt drive. Ran 15 inch light truck tires on the rear.
Frankenstein Trikes Website: https://www.frankensteintrikes.com/photos_sportster_graywolf01.html

My custom built 1200 Harley Sportster Trike that was in American Iron Magazine article featuring home built customs.
Picture is from my younger days 15 or 20 years ago, when I was in my prime.

 

[TerryTheSpyderRyder]

I have run 120 - 140 via the Krikit with the vehicle loaded/sitting on the ground for over 10 years. Especially when the engine mounted drive sprockets were failing and some transmission shafts, prior to a solution from BRP. The swing arm geometry increases belt tension as it is compressed. That's why many people recommend removing the rear shock bolt to drop the swing arm while changing a tire (vs slacking off the belt tensioners). Prove it to yourself: check tension with rear wheel in the air and with the machine on the ground: the Krikit value will increase 20-30 lbs.

Are there any symptoms if the belt is too tight? Mine is set to about 180 now with the wheel on the ground, and the trike seems to ride smoothly and quietly.

 

[Mikey]

Are there any symptoms if the belt is too tight? Mine is set to about 180 now with the wheel on the ground, and the trike seems to ride smoothly and quietly.

Don't over think this, you're fine!!

 

[Gwolf]

I still don't see anything here like what the guy who did a U-Tube Video was talking about. Most all the belt settings here fall into the F3 range that is listed in the manual. The guy who did the video was talking about using the harmonic tester to determine the belt tension and he said there are different belts to go on the heavier touring Spyders that have the easy chair seats and all the storage options stock from the factory. The belts for those are larger, and more sturdy and according to the video, those belts require a significantly tighter setting than the F3 series lighter weight Spyders. The setting for the heavier Spyders is in the Service and Repair Manual and is way on past what is listed in the manual for the F3 series. The video is found here:
U-Tube Video about Belt Tension Settings

I was going to look up some of the touring Spyders in the parts manual to see if the belt had the same part number as the F3 belts, but I had to go pick up some fertilizer in town and then I got distracted by this BBQ place where the waitresses all wear t-shirts and hot pants, and I forgot about looking up the part numbers. I only go to that BBQ place because the food tastes so good. It has nothing to do with how the waitresses dress.

 

[bcpsqd]

I've set the belt tension with the wheels on the ground, to 200 with the Krikit II. Is this too tight? The trike is a 2017 F3-S, and it seems to ride nicely.

I read about the specs and recommendations and set mine at 190 on the ground - 2015 RT SM6

 

[Gwolf]

Looked up several of the models belt numbers and found this.

The 2025 F3-S belt part number is 705502157

The RT S2S Special Edition belt part number is 705501304

The Red Rock Canyon belt part number is 705501304 - same as the RT S2S

Went back and looked up the F3 Limited to see if the F3's all had the same belt. It is part number 705501304, same as the other heavier models, but not the same as the F3 Sport models.

There are two different belts and the heavier gross weight Spyders all use one belt part number, while the F3-S sport model of lighter gross weights use the other belt part number.

It would make sense that the two different belts could have different tension settings.

All the belts I looked up were for the North American Models, so the part numbers could be consistent as to region.

 

[troop]

Looked up several of the models belt numbers and found this.

The 2025 F3-S belt part number is 705502157

The RT S2S Special Edition belt part number is 705501304

The Red Rock Canyon belt part number is 705501304 - same as the RT S2S

Went back and looked up the F3 Limited to see if the F3's all had the same belt. It is part number 705501304, same as the other heavier models, but not the same as the F3 Sport models.

There are two different belts and the heavier gross weight Spyders all use one belt part number, while the F3-S sport model of lighter gross weights use the other belt part number.

It would make sense that the two different belts could have different tension settings.

All the belts I looked up were for the North American Models, so the part numbers could be consistent as to region.

Also remember that the F3S belt would be shorter due to the 89t rear pulley.

 

[Gwolf]

Also remember that the F3S belt would be shorter due to the 89t rear pulley.

They are not all the same. Beginning in 2019 the F3-S came standard with the 79 tooth rear pulley.
The F3-S Special Series came with the 89 tooth rear pulley.

On other models the North American model had the 89 tooth while the models for sale in most other regions had the 79 tooth.

Too many different models and versions... it is confusing. I think it would be safe to say there are different length belts with at least two different ones.

Not only the model, but also the year, and the region they are sold in, affect which belts and pulleys they have. The pre-2018 had mostly the 79 tooth, then 2019 forward a lot of the F3-S got the 89 tooth pulleys on those for sale in USA and Canada. .

No sense digging any more in part numbers. You would need the manual for the correct model, year, and region to find the correct belt tension settings for the various belts and rear pulleys.

The guy that did that video either did not have all the information or chose not to include some of it in the video. The part he got right is there is more than one belt tension setting for the Spyder belts.

 

[TerryTheSpyderRyder]

Looked up several of the models belt numbers and found this.

The 2025 F3-S belt part number is 705502157

The RT S2S Special Edition belt part number is 705501304

The Red Rock Canyon belt part number is 705501304 - same as the RT S2S

Went back and looked up the F3 Limited to see if the F3's all had the same belt. It is part number 705501304, same as the other heavier models, but not the same as the F3 Sport models.

There are two different belts and the heavier gross weight Spyders all use one belt part number, while the F3-S sport model of lighter gross weights use the other belt part number.

It would make sense that the two different belts could have different tension settings.

All the belts I looked up were for the North American Models, so the part numbers could be consistent as to region.

Just to let you know, the F3-S belt runs over $300 new. And different models had different sized pulleys and gearing, thus different belts.

 

[Gwolf]

Just to let you know, the F3-S belt runs over $300 new. And different models had different sized pulleys and gearing, thus different belts.

Also found some information that the pulley is matched to the ECM and if you try to change the gearing by swapping belt and pulleys, you confuse the ECM and nothing works right. ECM could possibly be changed for the different gearing, but that is not for certain.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Also found some information that the pulley is matched to the ECM and if you try to change the gearing by swapping belt and pulleys, you confuse the ECM and nothing works right. ECM could possibly be changed for the different gearing, but that is not for certain.

No-one has been truly successful in doing that yet... And believe me, many have tried over the years!!

There's a LOT of old discussion threads on the Forum about on this, even posts from a few who initially thought they'd got swapping the pulley sorted, only then the errors started piling up!

 

[TerryTheSpyderRyder]

Also remember that the F3S belt would be shorter due to the 89t rear pulley.

The larger the rear pulley, the longer the belt, provided the front pulley is the same.

Also found some information that the pulley is matched to the ECM and if you try to change the gearing by swapping belt and pulleys, you confuse the ECM and nothing works right. ECM could possibly be changed for the different gearing, but that is not for certain.

Then we're in BUDS-buying territory. Not going to happen here unless I find a lot of change in the couch cushions!

 

[troop]

They are not all the same. Beginning in 2019 the F3-S came standard with the 79 tooth rear pulley.
The F3-S Special Series came with the 89 tooth rear pulley.

On other models the North American model had the 89 tooth while the models for sale in most other regions had the 79 tooth.

Too many different models and versions... it is confusing. I think it would be safe to say there are different length belts with at least two different ones.

Not only the model, but also the year, and the region they are sold in, affect which belts and pulleys they have. The pre-2018 had mostly the 79 tooth, then 2019 forward a lot of the F3-S got the 89 tooth pulleys on those for sale in USA and Canada. .

No sense digging any more in part numbers. You would need the manual for the correct model, year, and region to find the correct belt tension settings for the various belts and rear pulleys.

The guy that did that video either did not have all the information or chose not to include some of it in the video. The part he got right is there is more than one belt tension setting for the Spyder belts.

Beginning in 2019, the F3S (not only Special Series) came standard with the 89t rear pulley in USA/Canada. I had a 2019 F3S with a 89t rear pulley. Also, beginning in 2019, the F3T came standard with a 79t pulley. They came with 89t rear pulley's in 2018 and prior on F3 models.

https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/cam/5c2f72e987a8661634626a45/drive-system-rear