• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Belt replacement

kyspydergal

kyspydergal

GOS member (Girls On Spyders)
Just curious about cost to replace the belt on a 2010 RS SE5. It only has a little over 10,000 miles. We were hearing a clicking sound from the rear end, dealer thought it was the wheel bearings. After checking they found the bearings were good. But the belt has a groove in it. They said it looks like it had gravel or something that had gotten caught in it causing the groove which is probably what is causing the clicking. They quoted $517.00 for belt and labor to replace it. Does that sound reasonable? They highly recommended replacing it since we are suppose to head to Gatlinburg next Thursday.
 
That seems a bit on the high side... check with AKSpyderman; he had his replaced...
Did your dealer take a close look at your Sprockets? If there was a rock getting ground into the belt; it might also have been getting ground into them... :yikes:
 
kyspydergal said:
Just curious about cost to replace the belt on a 2010 RS SE5. It only has a little over 10,000 miles. We were hearing a clicking sound from the rear end, dealer thought it was the wheel bearings. After checking they found the bearings were good. But the belt has a groove in it. They said it looks like it had gravel or something that had gotten caught in it causing the groove which is probably what is causing the clicking. They quoted $517.00 for belt and labor to replace it. Does that sound reasonable? They highly recommended replacing it since we are suppose to head to Gatlinburg next Thursday.
Click to expand...



That word scares me coming from any dealer............

IMO, I'm not sure how a groove would cause a "clicking" sound unless a rock is still lodged in the belt. Rubber on metal should not make a clicking sound, but a rock on metal would.
 
Shop around..!!

it does sound fair but you may find a better deal. Call other shops in your area and see. The belt is like three hundred and labor will vary with shop and techs...sorry 10,000 is not much for these belts under normal conditions...good luck..!! :thumbup:
 
Chupaca said:
:agree: Or will they install it at all...!!
Click to expand...

My thought exactly. I'm kind of in a bit of a time crunch since I'm suppose to head out for TN on Thursday. The dealer had a belt in stock and can replace it tomorrow. Sure does cut into my vacation money though!
 
Have you checked your tire(s) to see if there is a stone stuck in the tread or a nail or screw in the tire? Common cause of a clicking sound.
 
NancysToy said:
Have you checked your tire(s) to see if there is a stone stuck in the tread or a nail or screw in the tire? Common cause of a clicking sound.
Click to expand...

I think it's too loud of a click to be anything in the tire. I've had that happen before. We still get the noise on the wood ramp to the Spyder garage and the grass too.
 
I have to think this belt is pretty comparable to a Harley Davidson belt. I ran a small stone through a Harley belt one time where it actually had a hole punched in it. I put 30,000 miles on that belt and it was still fine when I sold the bike. If you have a proper jack and are careful, you should be able to lift the rear wheel off the ground and listen to where the sound is coming from. Maybe it's as simple as Scotty suggested and just something in the tire.
 
kyspydergal said:
I think it's too loud of a click to be anything in the tire. I've had that happen before. We still get the noise on the wood ramp to the Spyder garage and the grass too.
Click to expand...

You are probably right, but it doesn't hurt to check. Also check the front wheels to see that a wheel weight isn't hitting a cotter key. The source of a sound can be deceiving. I'd also do another real thorough check of the belt. A stone or piece of metal stuck in the belt could be the cause, and would be almost impossible to find visually if it is small or dark colored. Also look for chunks out of the inside of the belt where that mark is. If the groove is continuous, I would either replace the belt or have a spare on hand. The MSRP of the drive belt is $299.99, so your dealer is hitting you pretty hard for labor or running up the parts cost. You have little choice unless you want to do it yourselves. If you do it yourselves, take a krikit reading beforehand, so you can adjust the belt tension back to where it is after the replacement. Lamonster has a video on here somewhere with a method that would do the job without belt adjustment.
Note: The new belt will require axle removal and retensioning, so Lamont's method won't help except to guide you in rear wheel removal.
 
Last edited:
IF THIS WERE MY PROBLEM

I would buy that E_BAY in a heart beat,....and keep it with you.....Just in case the OEM belt breaks ......And I doubt it will....and if it does , it's not like a CHAIN breaking .......IMHO the belts are way tuffer than a chain........good luck Mike :thumbup:
 
NancysToy said:
Lamonster has a video on here somewhere with a method that would do the job without belt adjustment.
Click to expand...

Here's a YouTube link to Lamonster's video of changing a rear tire without having to readjust the belt tension. I've done the same thing twice and it works just fine and isn't a difficult job at all. I'm not sure just what additional steps would be necessary to change the belt. Haven't looked at that aspect of it. Cotton
 
Thanks for chasing down that video Bikeguy. Upon reflection, the axle will have to be removed to change the belt anyway and the new belt may have a different tension, so the best thing to do is take a Krikit-2 reading first (actually the average of three in different places), remove the rear tire as Lamont suggested, change the belt, then adjust the new belt to the Krikit-2 benchmark obtained earlier.
 
arntufun said:
I'm willing to bet even you could change a belt............ :thumbup:
Click to expand...
I could; but I'm only lacking about four essential ingredients:
mechanical skill of ANY sort... :opps:

The tools
The nerve
permission from the Missus to do something like that to HER bike...
 

Attachments

  • jealous woman.jpg
    jealous woman.jpg
    57.9 KB · Views: 24
I would jack the rear frame enough to raise the rear tire off the ground and start the Bike (Blocks in front of front wheels Please) and put it in first gear to make sure the wheel turns freely and see what you see and hear??? :dontknow: Easy to jack under rear frame?nojoke
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Poppie65
Zumo XT2 paired to headset by Bluetooth - anyone else got clicking in the headset?
Replies
3
Views
1K
Poppie65
Poppie65
broderp
Opinions wanted - How I and the Dealer handled a service issue - long read warning
2
Replies
32
Views
4K
JB62
JB62
Wmoater
Washing and condition drive belt eliminated all squeaking!
Replies
3
Views
739
Wmoater
Wmoater
DickB
MY '21/'22 Production Ryker Fuel pump recall; + some '19-'24 replacements!
Replies
14
Views
6K
Tslepebull
Tslepebull
M
R.I.P. Barney's Dealerships
Replies
12
Views
3K
mandytuning
M
Back
Top