• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Anyone used Redline Synthetic Oil? Any length of change improvements?

pegasus1300

pegasus1300

Well-known member
Have any of you used Redline Oil in any of your vehicles? 10w40 motorcycle oil specifically? What was you experience with length of change interval? Were you able to go longer? Thanks for your help
 
If you're still riding that 2012, and looking for a oil that you can ride longer than brp limits, I think for peace of mind you may need to do some home work and have your oil tested between changes to see how your choice is holding up and if you can stretch it out a little longer!! Myself I use the Amsoil Metric, and do not loose a bit of sleep stretching out to 5000! I trust Amsoil, use it in every thing I have, I know I am sticking a stick in the hornets nest and ready to get flamed by the masses on here, but that's how I feel!!:lecturef_smilie: Have I had it tested, no, should I, yes, it maybe able to go a little longer. waste of money using it, No!!! You know the old saying everyone has there own ideas, this is mine!! Good luck, if it's worked for you before, try it you may love it!:2thumbs:
 
If it meets or exceeds the specs for motorcycles (wet clutches) try it for the 9300k miles BRP recommends. Have it tested ($15) and see what you get. You may like it. Look at it this way. It takes a very small amount of oil to have it tested. So you can suck out some oil at any time and send it in. It won't hurt a thing. A test costs less than or about what 2 quarts of oil costs. Very inexpensive, easy to do, and turnaround time is less than two weeks. I use Napa to test my oil, but there are several more to choose from.
 
Looking in the service manual it says change the oil every 9,300 miles or annually. Now I notice pegasus1300, you are living in Utah, like me. I think this is what some of my other motorcycle and car manufacturers call a "hostile environment" in their handbooks.

We live at 5,000 feet or thereabouts, so all our normally aspirated vehicles have to work a fair bit harder to produce the same level of power we would get at sea level, about 15% harder, for the same level of performance I think. Also, in winter we get quite cold with higher humidity levels and in the summer it gets pretty hot and dry with our cooling systems working especially hard in our frequent freeway traffic jams. Additionally, for many parts of Utah there is a lot of fine dust kicked up by the winds or being deposited from the rainfall, some of which does innevability get by the air filter and into the engine internals. If you are towing a trailer of course, this would also add even further to the stress on the engine and transmission. I ride two up most of the time and therefore I am pulling a higher than normal load, especially with luggage (well, mainly my wife's luggage).

Given that the winter tends to condense moisture into the oil, the summers really heat soak our engines, coupled with environment impacts like dust and altitude have, I would tend to reduce oil change intervals rather than trying to extend them.

Although BRP doesn't list separate service intervals for hostile environments in their handbook, over the past years having BMW and Triumph motorcycles along with Jaguar Land Rover cars and SUV's - they have all recommended oil changes for such environments as ours at about half the distance of that of the normal 10,000 miles. They seem to stick to the same service intervals or annual oil change requirements, but they suggest changing the oil and filter about twice as often from mileage requirements. I generally change the air filters too about twice as often, because of the fine particulate dust.

These are just my opinions of course, but so far I've not had any premature engine wear or oil related issues on any of the motorcycles or cars I have owned in the past 33 years of living in Utah, despite racking up quite high mileages on some of them.

I would love to reduce the financial cost and environmental impact of more frequent oil changes, but when other name brand vehicle manufacturers recommend more frequent changes for our hostile environment, I'm going to do the same for my Spyder under an abundance of caution.

YMMV of course.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks Mikey, yes I am running a 2012 and my current change interval is a factory 4500 miles with Rotella T6. I don' need advice on what oil to run, I need information on Redline Oil. If I were to use this I would definately have it tested at 4500m to see how it was doing. IF.
 
Rotella doesn't make a T6 10W40 that I am aware of (5W40 and 15W40, Yes). Quicksilver does make a synthetic 10W40 and it is JASO MA2 rated. Amazon has gallon jugs. Rotella T6 is getting very hard to find, and when you do find it is over $40 a gallon.
 
pidjones said:
Rotella doesn't make a T6 10W40 that I am aware of (5W40 and 15W40, Yes). Quicksilver does make a synthetic 10W40 and it is JASO MA2 rated. Amazon has gallon jugs. Rotella T6 is getting very hard to find, and when you do find it is over $40 a gallon.
Click to expand...
That's nice and thank you but I am not asking about Rotella. I have several gallons of it. I am asking about Redline. Aren't there any old Harley riders out there who used to use it or anybody who used it in something else?
 
Last edited:
Boutique Oils are something that I don't waste $ on. I have used Mobil 1 fully synthetic even in our air cooled racing BMW Boxers. Always available at Walmart. On one of the tight race tracks in California, our oiltemp was as hi as 350F, never the slightest oiling issues, Use it in everything I have and have been for as long as I can remember.
 
Paul, really hard to get a direct answer to your your question, invariably ya hear what every one else is using. Might pose the question over on a You Tube, I do know some Harley riders use it simply because those engines run so hot.
 
FrogmanDave said:
Thread hijack. Are you talking regular Mobil 1 or Mobil 1 motorcycle oil?
Click to expand...

Regular Mobil 1 fully synthetic. Buy it in those 5 Qt Jugs, 4 jugs per case. The lowest prices have been Walmart on line delivered to the closest Walmart Store (in store pick up) with no shipping cost. Haven't bought any lately because I buy then 2 cases at a time and I generally always buy 15/50. Use it in all my motorcycles and ATV's. Even used it in my Diesel tractor when we lived out in the country out of Show Low, Az. Had a conversation with Mobil before using it in the tractor, AOK was their answer. Does not have friction modifiers meaning, can be used with a wet clutch.

Never saw any reason to ever use the more expensive "Motorcycle Oil".
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Any Full Synthetic oils that DON'T have issues with clutch slipping? RS V-twin motor
2
Replies
24
Views
2K
aka1004
A
S
Just had my 1st service done - they used 4T 0W40 synthetic oil - anyone else?
2
Replies
30
Views
2K
broderp
broderp
L
My 2024 RT has developed a Vibration at 2700 rpm - anyone else? Any ideas of cause? Fixes?
Replies
10
Views
579
Spyderjim2016
Spyderjim2016
T
Anyone used Hot Shot's Secret FR3 Friction Reducer additive? Any feedback?
Replies
7
Views
1K
tomE
T
M
Did oil change & checked level properly; NO oil showing on dip stick - any ideas?
2
Replies
36
Views
2K
JayBros
JayBros
Back
Top