Anyone tried Mobil 1 10W40 Full Synthetic Oil?

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Your comment may be partially correct, or it may be partially wrong. No one has shown any money quid pro quo with regard to manufacturers recommendations. I'm not saying there would be any easy way to show that, all I'm saying is innocent until proven guilty.

Yes, there are other oils that meet most any other manufacturer's specs. I'm agreeing with jerpinoy in that there no valid reason to NOT use what they recommend. AND, They DO HAVE an interest in keeping your engine healthy and so I trust what they recommend. Do you think they want engines back while under warranty, or even out of warranty and get a bad reputation that sinks the company?

WHERE'S THE QUID PRO QUO??????

If Private Labs who have NO DOG in this have shown that the BRP oil fails a lot sooner than most other Major OIL Manufacturer's products do??

Then What is your PROOF criteria??? ... I have a feeling that You believe KENDA tires are great also. :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack: - Drink the Kool-Aid ... be Happy ... ride safe .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[ofdave]

The issue for a 998 engine is the warning that API SM rated oil cannot be used or it will cause clutch damage. Clearly stated in the owners manual for all models with a 998 engine. Mobil 1 changed their formula in the 4T to meet the SM rating and some folks had slipping clutches. I also got caught on my 09 when I bought into the chant from the Rottela T6 cult members and did a fill of that oil. My clutch started slipping. Again a API oil rating of SM.

The OP has a 2015 RT. It has a 1330 engine. Now the models with a 1330 engine do not have a warning about SM rated oil in the owners manual. So there should be no concern about using Mobil 4T or Rottela T6 5W40.

In regard to Rottela T6. Often folks recommend it for use in their Spyder. Here in Canada there are 2 viscosities of T6 available. 5W40 shows on the label that is can be used in a motorcycle. 0W40 does not and therefore should not be used in your Spyder.

The "SM" rating has nothing to do with wet clutch compatibility.
Most oils are rated SM. In fact, the rating system now goes to "SN". They began with "SA" in the 1930's I believe. The ratings were changed/upgraded as engines became more advanced and placed different demands on lubricating qualities. A good read is found here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil#API_service_classes
The issue with wet clutches is the friction modifiers added to the oil. This shows as "Energy Conserving" in the bottom half-circle around the rating number.
There has been an adoption of "JASO" standards for motorcycles in recent years. Not all oils meet these standards. Nor do they need to.
From a Wikepedia article:""The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (JASO) has created their own set of performance and quality standards for petrol engines of Japanese origin.
For four-stroke gasoline engines, the JASO T904 standard is used, and is particularly relevant to motorcycle engines. The JASO T904-MA and MA2 standards are designed to distinguish oils that are approved for wet clutch use, with MA2 lubricants delivering higher friction performance. The JASO T904-MB standard denotes oils not suitable for wet clutch use, and are therefore used in scooters equipped with continuously variable transmissions. The addition of friction modifiers to JASO MB oils can contribute to greater fuel economy in these applications.[SUP][23][/SUP]
For two-stroke gasoline engines, the JASO M345 (FA, FB, FC, FD) standard is used,[SUP][24][/SUP] and this refers particularly to low ash, lubricity, detergency, low smoke and exhaust blocking.
These standards, especially JASO-MA (for motorcycles) and JASO-FC, are designed to address oil-requirement issues not addressed by the API service categories. One element of the JASO-MA standard is a friction test designed to determine suitability for wet clutch usage.[SUP][10][/SUP][SUP][25][/SUP] An oil that meets JASO-MA is considered appropriate for wet clutch operations. Oils marketed as motorcycle-specific will carry the JASO-MA label."

Use of "SM" rated oil will not hurt your Spyder. What will cause a problem is SM oil with friction modifiers shown as "Energy Conserving" in the API donut on the label.

 

[jaherbst]

Here we go again, I here those trumpets blow again, Taking a Chance on Love (Oil). Good to see the Circus is in town again and every one gets to exercise there fingers on the keyboards with their many diverse opinions! :joke:

Jack

 

[billybovine]

The "SM" rating has nothing to do with wet clutch compatibility.
Most oils are rated SM. In fact, the rating system now goes to "SN". They began with "SA" in the 1930's I believe. The ratings were changed/upgraded as engines became more advanced and placed different demands on lubricating qualities. A good read is found here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil#API_service_classes
The issue with wet clutches is the friction modifiers added to the oil. This shows as "Energy Conserving" in the bottom half-circle around the rating number.
There has been an adoption of "JASO" standards for motorcycles in recent years. Not all oils meet these standards. Nor do they need to.
From a Wikepedia article:""The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (JASO) has created their own set of performance and quality standards for petrol engines of Japanese origin.
For four-stroke gasoline engines, the JASO T904 standard is used, and is particularly relevant to motorcycle engines. The JASO T904-MA and MA2 standards are designed to distinguish oils that are approved for wet clutch use, with MA2 lubricants delivering higher friction performance. The JASO T904-MB standard denotes oils not suitable for wet clutch use, and are therefore used in scooters equipped with continuously variable transmissions. The addition of friction modifiers to JASO MB oils can contribute to greater fuel economy in these applications.[SUP][23][/SUP]
For two-stroke gasoline engines, the JASO M345 (FA, FB, FC, FD) standard is used,[SUP][24][/SUP] and this refers particularly to low ash, lubricity, detergency, low smoke and exhaust blocking.
These standards, especially JASO-MA (for motorcycles) and JASO-FC, are designed to address oil-requirement issues not addressed by the API service categories. One element of the JASO-MA standard is a friction test designed to determine suitability for wet clutch usage.[SUP][10][/SUP][SUP][25][/SUP] An oil that meets JASO-MA is considered appropriate for wet clutch operations. Oils marketed as motorcycle-specific will carry the JASO-MA label."

Use of "SM" rated oil will not hurt your Spyder. What will cause a problem is SM oil with friction modifiers shown as "Energy Conserving" in the API donut on the label.

When you quote research materials maybe you should read them first. As explained in the wikipedia page you linked to.

Quote "Motorcycle oil.
The API oil classification structure has eliminated specific support for wet-clutch motorcycle applications in their descriptors, and API SJ and newer oils are referred to be specific to automobile and light truck use. Accordingly, motorcycle oils are subject to their own unique standards. See JASO below. As discussed above, motorcycle oils commonly still use the obsolescent SF/SG standard."

You are correct that most engine oil has gone to API SM or the newer SN. But it is rare for a motorcycle oil. Again I repeat. With so many motorcycle oils compatible with the specs of your Spyder as spelled out in the Owners Manual, Why choose one that's not?

 

[Easy Rider]

Exactly how would an oil designed for old engines cause wear only on new engines?:dontknow:

Can't say "exactly" because I don't have access to the engineering data for that specific oil but...............

Just because it does not say "Energy Conserving" does not necessarily mean that it doesn't have some additives at a lower level that still might be detrimental to a wet clutch. It is a crap shoot. It is not a gamble if it is marked with the proper certification for motorcycles.

Then....one of the things that high mileage oil does is swell the seals, valve guide seals for one.
If the seals become TIGHTER than they are supposed to be they are likely to wear faster.

You got lucky apparently. Just because you got away with it does NOT mean that it is good advice for everybody.

Some people have even survived a trip over Niagra falls in a barrel. :yikes:

 

[Grandpot]

Can't say "exactly" because I don't have access to the engineering data for that specific oil but...............

Just because it does not say "Energy Conserving" does not necessarily mean that it doesn't have some additives at a lower level that still might be detrimental to a wet clutch. It is a crap shoot. It is not a gamble if it is marked with the proper certification for motorcycles.

Then....one of the things that high mileage oil does is swell the seals, valve guide seals for one.
If the seals become TIGHTER than they are supposed to be they are likely to wear faster.

You got lucky apparently. Just because you got away with it does NOT mean that it is good advice for everybody.

Some people have even survived a trip over Niagra falls in a barrel. :yikes:

You do have some good points there. I'll have to rethink this.

 

[ofdave]

When you quote research materials maybe you should read them first. As explained in the wikipedia page you linked to.

Quote "Motorcycle oil.
The API oil classification structure has eliminated specific support for wet-clutch motorcycle applications in their descriptors, and API SJ and newer oils are referred to be specific to automobile and light truck use. Accordingly, motorcycle oils are subject to their own unique standards. See JASO below. As discussed above, motorcycle oils commonly still use the obsolescent SF/SG standard."

You are correct that most engine oil has gone to API SM or the newer SN. But it is rare for a motorcycle oil. Again I repeat. With so many motorcycle oils compatible with the specs of your Spyder as spelled out in the Owners Manual, Why choose one that's not?

Thanks for the instructions in how to post a quote from research materials.

Perhaps the quote provides some information to those not familiar with oil ratings as was the intention.
I have a bottle of 4T 4-stroke motorcycle oil on the shelf. I am not naming the brand as I do not wish to get a dreaded "oil thread" started. We are (at least I am) talking about API ratings, specifically SM.

On the bottle the manufacturer states "API SJ/SL/SM/SN" and JASO MA2".

The use of SM rated oil with no "energy conserving" rating will not harm a wet clutch.

 

[Easy Rider]

The use of SM rated oil with no "energy conserving" rating will not harm a wet clutch.

Highly likely that is true.

But it does not HAVE to be true.

If it has additives that don't quite come up to the "energy conserving" rating, it still could be too "slippery" for use with a wet clutch.

 

[Easy Rider]

Probably. The last time I bought some, a couple of years back, it was a bit over $8 at Auto Zone.
If they end up selling much at your Wally World the price might come down some.

Just checked an Auto Zone yesterday.
It was priced at $11.15 a quart.
Looks like the WalMart price is pretty good.

 

[pegasus1300]

So if you are looking for a highly rated synthetic oil for wet clutches at a low price, check out Shell Rotella T6 10w 40 (21.99/gal @ Advance Auto) or Valvoline T4 synthetic 10w 40 (6.67/qt @ WalMart). Both are JASO MA2, I use both, my Spyder runs & shifts fine (2012 RTL SE5)

 

[tntherapy]

I'm planning on making a 9,000 mile trip this summer and just discovered the new Mobile 1 Annual Protection.
Would this oil work correctly in my 2008 GS and help me to avoid an oil change on the road? I'm just now looking
at its codes and ratings, but figured some of you that travel more than me could provide some insight or ideas.
We could either continue using this thread or use pms to keep out of the technical and arguing discussions that usually
ensue.

thanks,
tntherapy (Dick Beistel)

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

This Mobil 1 - There are sooooooooooooo many types of oil that come under the Mobil 1 name it's almost impossible to tell what its specific properties are ........ so can you look the label for what the grading classifications cover and post it here...... then we can tell you if it's OK ........... I will say that the longest mileage oil is going to be a Full Synthetic, they won't break down as quickly as Dino or Blended Dino oils do ............... Mike :thumbup:

 

[2dogs]

Running 9k on an oil change is ok. However, you will likely need to add oil before you make the 9k miles. Keep that in mind and take extra oil with you. Also, make sure you are using Mobil motorcycle oil. Do not run regular automobile oil in your spyder. Regular vehicle oil contains friction modifiers that will interfere with your clutch pack. If you get somewhere and need oil and can't find motorcycle oil, any diesel motor oil will work in a pinch and will not harm your clutch pack. Delo 400 15w40 will work great. Good luck and have a great trip.

 

[Highwayman2013]

Use the Mobil 10w40 motorcycle oil not the annual protection stuff, that’s for cars. I’m running the Mobil Racing 4T 10W40 full synthetic motorcycle oil now and will be changing it soon. I’m running it for over 8,000 miles now and will send it in for analysis. Report to come.

 

[SPYD3R]

it ABSOLUTELY requires oil that is specifically made for motorcycles...
WET CLUTCH oil is the ONLY oil to use... you will ruin your SPYD3R if you use oil that is specific to automobiles....
Dan P
SPYD3R

 

[Bob Denman]

:agree: with Dan... It's the wet clutch that should be your biggest concern.

 

[Spyderglide]

"In Lamont we Trust"

http://www.lamonstergarage.com/lamo...tic-oil-change-kit-can-am-spyder-spectro-oil/

http://www.lamonstergarage.com/lamo...tic-oil-change-kit-can-am-spyder-spectro-oil/

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Which Mobil One oil is used in our 1330 Spyders. I have been looking at the backside labels and can't find any with a JASO rating - Please state the exact product and weight of the oil.

Also, Rotella has a great rebate until end of Dec. If anyone has been able to PRINT the rebate form, please share how you accomplished this. Much Thanks. Mike hyea:

 

[PW2013STL]

Mike,

I have used Mobil 4T it is Jaso and Jaso 2 rated - per their website. It is 10w-40w oil. I have since changed to Rotella T6 as it is as good and cost less (even without the rebate).

 

[PMK]

Mike

The Mobil 1 oil you are asking about is Mobil 1 Racing 4T. 10W40.

One of the bottles I had on the shelf is labeled JASO MA, another is labeled JASO MA2. Not sure why this is? However, I did check the Mobil website and it is stating the oil is JASO MA2 rated.

Our 14 RTS has had Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W40 as the only oil used except during engine break in which used the BRP oil.

No complaints against the Mobil 1. Seems those owners that have had oil analysis done for this oil get very good reports.

I decided on the Mobil 1 and have stuck with it based on 540rats independent testing of hundreds of oils. The last time I checked the 540rat blog page, the Mobil 1 was still rated considerably higher in the rankings than the Rotella T6 and other oils that are wet clutch approved. I believe there is one Motul oil that is acceptable for Spyders, but it remains very expensive. Want to add, when I last checked the blog, no Amsoil motorcycle products had been tested at that time.

https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-4t-motorcycle-oil