Anyone else notice the excessive amount of throttle twist/rotation required??

[PMK]

Yes, the Spyder does require a bit of twist to get going.

I am familiar with the replacement throttle cams on other bikes. Yes they can alter how the bike feels.

On our Spyder, I do wish it had more power and with that less need to add more throttle.

As a racer also, the throttle roll is too long for me also. To correct, I either must overgrip the throttle or be very focused to rotate the grip like a doorknob. I prefer the doorknob technique best.

The Syder is not a racebike, and with that, has no real racebike fit or feel. Use it for what it is, a touring bike or cruiser, nothing more. Consider too, at 1330cc, 115 hp is pretty pale when a 600cc machine is far more solid performer. The portly 1100 lbs empty weight of an RT or 900 lbs of an F3 simply adds insult to injury when it comes to true performance. So I revert back to ride it as it was designed. Tourer or cruiser. If needed, to get some overgrip, I will reach over with my left hand and hold the throttle steady wile moving my right hand around the grip.

Wait until you try and cancel cruise control, that is another dance to learn since there is no CC cancel except turning it off or hitting the brakes.

 

[Bob Denman]

The fact that the Spyders don't have a "Quick-Twist" throttle is purely intentional...
for good reason!
As Paul said: these aren't racebikes. Most folks riding them would only get in trouble, if a minor change in the throttle position resulted in a BIG addition to the power level. nojoke

 

[Slowpoke387]

Yes, the Spyder does require a bit of twist to get going.

I am familiar with the replacement throttle cams on other bikes. Yes they can alter how the bike feels.

On our Spyder, I do wish it had more power and with that less need to add more throttle.

As a racer also, the throttle roll is too long for me also. To correct, I either must overgrip the throttle or be very focused to rotate the grip like a doorknob. I prefer the doorknob technique best.

The Syder is not a racebike, and with that, has no real racebike fit or feel. Use it for what it is, a touring bike or cruiser, nothing more. Consider too, at 1330cc, 115 hp is pretty pale when a 600cc machine is far more solid performer. The portly 1100 lbs empty weight of an RT or 900 lbs of an F3 simply adds insult to injury when it comes to true performance. So I revert back to ride it as it was designed. Tourer or cruiser. If needed, to get some overgrip, I will reach over with my left hand and hold the throttle steady wile moving my right hand around the grip.

Wait until you try and cancel cruise control, that is another dance to learn since there is no CC cancel except turning it off or hitting the brakes.

Agreed for the most part. Def not a racebike and im def not trying to ride it that way. But when even just maintenance throttle has you holding it in an awkward position, my mind wanders to my other bikes and ultimately does an ergonomic comparison. Its the actual position you have to keep ur wrist bent, not the power issue at all. I think the 1330 is more than enough for what these things are designed for. Awesome power for a cruiser type ride. I'll try the doorknob technique next.

 

[Meky]

Hi,
have you found any solution later on? I'm new Ryker owner and have to say I struggle with the same issue. Looking for some solutions or tips how to make my wrist more comfortable.
Thanks, Miro

 

[BamaJohn]

Pedal Box from BajaRon solved it for me. (I know... it's an old thread)

 

[TheMariner]

Ahoj Miro

MartinTheVlogger.com in Bratislava, Slovakia has the Pedal Box: https://www.martinthevlogger.com/product-page/pro-pedalbox-throttle-response-unit-ryker

 

[Albec]

Anyone else notice that you have to really twist the throttle far to accelerate? On our F3L its really noticible if you're wanting to do more than just cruise. Say, accelerating onto the highway.
Jumping back onto my motorcycle this really jumped out at me. I know these aren't motorcycles but the throttles are motorcycle equipment all the way. Ive been noticing how far i have to twist and hold the throttle. Seems really excessive compared to all of my mototcycles. When i raced motorcycles we were able to take the throttle tubes off and change out the cams that attach to the throttle cables which operated the throttle bodies.
Anyone know if there are different throttle cams for these? Would be nice to shorten the "throw" of the throttle.

I'm with you on this and I certainly have noticed! I always have to reposition my hand on the throttle because of this.

As you mentioned, my other bike, the one with two wheels, has had the throttle tube cam changed out so that not so much twist is required for full throttle.

With drive by wire it would be a simple job to recalibrate this, if only BRP would allow it.

 

[petegtsv10]

I put leather grip covers on my RT and it is much better. Being a thicker grip now it twist faster.

How does a larger diameter grip alter how many degrees one must turn grip to achieve WOT?

 

[ARtraveler]

ldpost: This post goes all the way back to May/2017. Has been dormant since June/2017.

Many of the posters are no longer on the site. :bowdown:

 

[Albec]

How does a larger diameter grip alter how many degrees one must turn grip to achieve WOT?

The larger the outside diameter the more twist is required. The amount may be negligible, but more will be needed to get the same result.

 

[StalkyTracker]

Hi,
have you found any solution later on? I'm new Ryker owner and have to say I struggle with the same issue. Looking for some solutions or tips how to make my wrist more comfortable.
Thanks, Miro

I went with a Pedal Commander on my Ryker and it solved the issue for me.

 

[Allen42]

The larger the outside diameter the more twist is required. The amount may be negligible, but more will be needed to get the same result.

That's only if moving around the circumference of the grip, which your hand is (probably) not doing. The actual amount of degrees traveled (the amount of wrist twist) remains the same.

 

[petegtsv10]

That's only if moving around the circumference of the grip, which your hand is (probably) not doing. The actual amount of degrees traveled (the amount of wrist twist) remains the same.

Thank you. The number of rotational degrees is NOT affected by the diameter (or radius or circumference) of the circle.

 

[Peteoz]

It’s not AR that has got his panties in a knot, Dasmoe. He is simply letting others know, as he usually does & as is required by his 'Moderator's job description' to do so, that some of the posters on this thread are no longer around, in case someone asks them a question expecting a reply.

Pete

 

[Albec]

That's only if moving around the circumference of the grip, which your hand is (probably) not doing. The actual amount of degrees traveled (the amount of wrist twist) remains the same.

Is your hand not on the outside of the grip, otherwise known as the circumference?

 

[grampi]

I noticed this yesterday on both an F3 and an RT. I thought both required way too much turn, to the point of having to reposition my hand on the grip to get full throttle. I would think a Pedal Commander would solve this...

 

[Allen42]

Is your hand not on the outside of the grip, otherwise known as the circumference?

Nope, not unless you let go of the grip. I think (hope) we are talking about different things. A circle has 360 degrees, regardless of its size. If you have to turn it 1/2 the way (for example) for full throttle, that's 180 degrees of twist, regardless of how big the circle is. If you keep your your hands from slipping on the outside of the throttle, your wrist will twist the same, regardless of how big the grip is. Try this, even just imaginarily: Draw a dot on the grip pointing straight back towards you, parallel to the ground. Now grab the grip so that the heel of your hand and your forearm is pointed directly at that dot. Now turn the grip so that the point is pointed directly at the ground. Notice the new angle of your wrist. Now do the same thing with a ball point pen. Note that the amount of twist in your wrist is exactly the same. The ANGLE of the bend of your wrist will be 45 degrees, regardless of how big or small the grip is. Now if you were to open your hand and make it flat, and move the grip by "rubbing" the grip and having it turn under your flat hand without bending your wrist at all, then yes, the size or circumference of the grip will change how far your hand has to travel to turn the grip the same amount of degrees, based upon it's circumference. Hope that helps explain what I was referring to.

 

[Allen42]

I noticed this yesterday on both an F3 and an RT. I thought both required way too much turn, to the point of having to reposition my hand on the grip to get full throttle. I would think a Pedal Commander would solve this...

I have a pedal box. I don't think it does really except maybe in the lower speed ranges. I still find I have to use my fingers and walk them around the grip to get more turn out of it if I want to WOT for some reason. This is one reason I wear fingerless gloves most of the time.

 

[TheMariner]

I have a pedal box. I don't think it does really except maybe in the lower speed ranges. I still find I have to use my fingers and walk them around the grip to get more turn out of it if I want to WOT for some reason. This is one reason I wear fingerless gloves most of the time.

That's surprising. I have a Pedal Commander & found that in the 'sport' mode even on the lower 'response' settings it made a big difference.

 

[Allen42]

That's surprising. I have a Pedal Commander & found that in the 'sport' mode even on the lower 'response' settings it made a big difference.

I stand corrected. At speeds less than 70 or so, turning the pedal box on and off definitely changes your speed with no movement in the grip. This indicates that the throttle-to-grip position curve is for sure affected.

And obviously, the throttle response is much better, that's why we get a pedalbox or commander in the first place. (I have to remember to turn it off when trying to put it on ramps, etc.)