Anyone changed their 1330 trans filter yet?

[BajaRon]

Curious as to the hydraulics work on this....is it not the same oil source?

There seems to be a fair number of misconceptions about the SE6 HCM filter.

Changing the HCM filter is tricky or hard to do, (Not)
You need BUDS to change the HCM filter, (Not)
The HCM filter, filters the transmission oil, (Not). I will admit some culpability on this one as I reference this as a 'Transmission' filter (which it is not) because many relate to this terminology but have no idea what an HCM is.
The transmission runs in it's own, separate oil, (Not)

This filter treats only that oil which is then sent to the hydraulic control mechanism (or module, I can't remember which). The HCM takes the place of your foot on the shift lever and your hand squeezing the clutch lever. That's all it does. Shift up, shift down. The transmission gears run in the same oil as the engine and that oil is filtered by the engine oil filter.

 

[trikermutha]

Yep that HCM filter is really easy to replace once you get off the side covers.

In fact I still have the old one in my garage I wanted to open it up and see how much crap is in there :shocked:

 

[BajaRon]

Yep that HCM filter is really easy to replace once you get off the side covers.

In fact I still have the old one in my garage I wanted to open it up and see how much crap is in there :shocked:

I've seen 2 of these filters cut open, and pictures of a few more. They appear to be clean. Speculation is that you can go much further on this filter than the recommended 28,000 mile interval. This may be true. But gambling your HCM system on a maybe. Not so sure that's the best way to go. The HCM probably has some pretty close tolerance components for BRP to supply a dedicated filter to that function.

 

[Wahrsuul]

Ok, I'm about to attempt my HCM filter along with a few other things. I was reading the service manual, and they refer to several gaskets and o-rings. Are there any that need to be replaced for this? Do they come with the filter?

 

[JayBros]

The HCM filter comes as one complete assembly. The only difficult thing about it is removing the most rearward lower bolt; you have to remove the rear right side panel. You do not have to remove the underbelly panel immediately below the filter. I placed a sacrificial T-shirt under the filter and the amount of oil that came out wasn't more than a couple of ounces, didn't really saturate the shirt. Since you've the service manual you have the tightening sequence of the bolts. I went around them three times in sequence.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I changed the HCM filter myself, no BUDS. I did have shifting issues for about one or two miles but it cleared itself up.'

 

[Wahrsuul]

Guess I'll find out, hoping to get to it this weekend.

 

[BajaRon]

The HCM filter change on the 1330 Rotax is an easy job. The only thing you need to pay attention to (as with any O-Ring sealed component) is to tighten each bolt up evenly, a little at a time. Do not tighten 1 bolt and then move to then next.

The main thing is to provide even pressure around the circumference of the filter. You will end up with a small, even gap between the filter housing and the engine case as the O-Ring will hold the housing just off the engine case. This is an easy way to check to be sure you've done the job correctly. If the gap is not the same all the way around, then you have not gotten the bolts tightened properly. It's not difficult as long as you tighten each bolt a little at a time.

These retaining bolts do not have to be real tight. Just snug pressure is all that is needed. It is the O-Ring that is doing all the work.

Performing your own service work not only saves you time and money. It helps you to learn about your machine. And you will usually do at least as good a job as the tech at the dealership.

 

[TerryTheSpyderRyder]

Sorry that would not be me. Hope you don't need buds for it... [emoji845]

The shop manual mentions nothing about needing BUDS afterwards, and the job looks to be fairly straightforward. I'll do mine when it's due.

 

[JKMSPYDER]

I did mine at 28,000 miles. No BUDS needed.

 

[BajaRon]

The shop manual mentions nothing about needing BUDS afterwards, and the job looks to be fairly straightforward. I'll do mine when it's due.

I've had a number of customers do their own HCM filter change without incident. I think it wise to start the engine and let it idle for a bit to be sure all the oil passages are filled and any air is vented from the system. Just like any oil change on any vehicle. More so on a dry sump system like the Spyder uses.

This gives you time to check for any leaks, etc. Do this, of course, before you button everything up and can no longer see if you have any leaks. But the way. Leaks are extremely rare and only occur when you've done something wrong. Which is also very rare.

 

[Wahrsuul]

My brother and I are tearing into it tomorrow morning, guess we'll find out. He's got an 05 'Wing, so we're used to the "acre of plastic" that has to be removed. I haven't ridden all week as I found a slight drip of brake fluid on the left wheel so we'll have to look at that as well. Hoping to get the HCM and oil change done tomorrow. Maybe the coolant as well if we can get to it.

 

[KX5062]

I too have done it at home without any BUDS issues. It's kind of a PITA, but it's not difficult.

 

[Wahrsuul]

I did mine yesterday, along with an oil and fuel filter change. (All from Ron's) Getting everything out of the way was more of an issue, but we managed.

Haven't had a chance to test the bike as we also (some might say stupidly) decided to change out the new left side saddle bag. That's turned out to be a MAJOR PITA. After getting it mostly back together, some of my taillights don't work now. So we've got to tear the back end apart and see where we went wrong.

 

[zuni]

I've seen 2 of these filters cut open, and pictures of a few more. They appear to be clean. Speculation is that you can go much further on this filter than the recommended 28,000 mile interval. This may be true. But gambling your HCM system on a maybe. Not so sure that's the best way to go. The HCM probably has some pretty close tolerance components for BRP to supply a dedicated filter to that function.

Totally agree with this gamble comment. It is the general crude build up that creates the issues with solenoids not so much any big chunks (which you hopefully never see). I have been adding spin on oil filters to my truck transmissions for years. Transmission filters used to be filters, today they are basically screens. Fact is most people ignore service on vehicle transmissions until there is a problem. Older vehicles didn't have the tight tolerances that new vehicles have today. Some argue if it helps but as I approach close to 1,000,000 miles across a couple of trucks I have yet to have a transmission problem. Cheap insurance like Ron points out.

CJ JAX

 

[Wahrsuul]

All back together, and we did about 100 miles, and everything is just fine. No issues shifting, and the Amsoil seems to have smoothed the engine even further.

 

[rich5006]

thanks for the info

 

[BajaRon]

Totally agree with this gamble comment. It is the general crude build up that creates the issues with solenoids not so much any big chunks (which you hopefully never see). I have been adding spin on oil filters to my truck transmissions for years. Transmission filters used to be filters, today they are basically screens. Fact is most people ignore service on vehicle transmissions until there is a problem. Older vehicles didn't have the tight tolerances that new vehicles have today. Some argue if it helps but as I approach close to 1,000,000 miles across a couple of trucks I have yet to have a transmission problem. Cheap insurance like Ron points out.

CJ JAX

I am interested in your truck oil filter (trans). I have about 40K on my F250 and I will be doing a fluid/filter change on it. But you're right. The new filters are usually no more than a screen. What filter system do you prefer?

 

[zuni]

This is the one I used Ron. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XONTPM/ref=psdc_15727201_t1_B004XOPZV8 For where I was installing it the top ports worked best. You can find them with side ports if that is a better fit for you. I took the output line from the transmission that went to the cooler and instead ran the line to the filer housing. I took the output from the filter housing to the cooler. I usually run the first filter for 500 miles to get out the accumulated junk and then I swap at every oil change as the filters are cheap and I get to install a fresh 1/2 quart of fluid each time. I have never done a fluid flush as I figure I have exchanged about 7 quarts of fluid between transmission services.

CJ JAX

 

[BajaRon]

This is the one I used Ron. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XONTPM/ref=psdc_15727201_t1_B004XOPZV8 For where I was installing it the top ports worked best. You can find them with side ports if that is a better fit for you. I took the output line from the transmission that went to the cooler and instead ran the line to the filer housing. I took the output from the filter housing to the cooler. I usually run the first filter for 500 miles to get out the accumulated junk and then I swap at every oil change as the filters are cheap and I get to install a fresh 1/2 quart of fluid each time. I have never done a fluid flush as I figure I have exchanged about 7 quarts of fluid between transmission services.

CJ JAX

I know we are hijacking this thread. But I think pretty much all that can be said about the SE6 HCM filter has been said. As for a pressure flush like they do at a Quickie-Lube. Or even at the dealership. I don't recommend them. Expensive and many times, actually detrimental to the trans. Instead, I do my own. After changing what is in the pan. I disconnect the return line from the cooler to the trans, run the engine until I get about 2 quarts out. Shut the engine off. Add an equal amount of new fluid to the transmission and repeat until I get good, clean fluid out of the return line. It usually only takes 2 quarts more than what the trans holds to get this done. I shift the trans into forward and reverse gears during the exercise to get as much of the old replaced with new as possible. Using the return line, I also get the cooler fluid changed. I've also talked several friends into doing it this way. It's always worked out really well. Especially for those 'Sealed' transmissions that can be such a bear to service.

I understand that you are always replacing some old with new. I'm glad it's working well for you.