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There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Anyone changed their 1330 trans filter yet?
- Thread starter bluep
- Start date
Patrick, AeroPilot's post on page 2 of this thread about using that cross pattern was made way back in June 2019, so unless AeroP subscribed to this thread, you might never see a response from him. :dontknow: Similarly with your other request - it is a thread that started a while ago, so you really should check the dates on any posts you want to query/as questions of the poster. :thumbup:
Sure, possibly someone else in the know might answer instead, but maybe you'd be better off sending AeroPilot a PM direct? (Include a link to this thread tho!
) Worth a shot! 
hyea:
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BertRemington
New member
PatrickH -- first allow the gearbox to fully drain. Then remove the HCM filter Torx screws. Gently gently twist and pull the filter off. There shouldn't be much oil but a couple of paper towels underneath would be good. Inspect the various gearbox openings and make sure you have collected all O-rings. Wipe things mostly dry. Put a bit of oil on the HCM O-ring but not the outer seal. Gently gently push the filter back in place. Hand tighten (no tool) all the Torx screws. Then in three stages cross-pattern tighten the screws. Three stages is the minimum -- you do not want to bend the housing of your $100 filter and crimp the outer seal. Final torque is 11Nm/97inlb (Service Manual Supplement page 246). I used a 1/4" digital torque wrench. I'll be doing mine for the second time this weekend because the oil was dark (but otherwise clean) when I bought the RT-S at 77K. The clutch looks fairly easy to replace but I just as soon as leave it for the next owner. Best wishes.
PW2013STL
Active member
The seal on the filter is all that is needed. I have done 4 changes and never used any additional sealer. Never had a leak. It is a messy job so I lay a large piece of cardboard down to catch any oil that gets past my pan.
Run the engine for a while to ensure mo leaks before putting the Tupperware back on - this also purges any air that maybe in the system.
Does anyone have pictures or link to a YouTube for this?
Where is it?
Do you recall whether that is something that needs to be done at 28k? Or is it at 56k?
Lew L
Well-known member
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Hi Pete,
Yes that's it. Change it at an oil change as you have to drain the oil anyways. Metric ball head hex wrenches help. Get and old towel to put under the filter as you'll get another 1/4 to 1/2 cup of oil draining out. Tighten in steps with a criss cross pattern and NOT too tight. Inch pounds stated in the thread somewhere. BUDS not needed, just lit it warm up a minute as you check for leaks. Shift int 1st and Reverse, then drive off for a test ride.
Good info in this whole thread.
Lew
Hi Pete,
Yes that's it. Change it at an oil change as you have to drain the oil anyways. Metric ball head hex wrenches help. Get and old towel to put under the filter as you'll get another 1/4 to 1/2 cup of oil draining out. Tighten in steps with a criss cross pattern and NOT too tight. Inch pounds stated in the thread somewhere. BUDS not needed, just lit it warm up a minute as you check for leaks. Shift int 1st and Reverse, then drive off for a test ride.
Good info in this whole thread.
Lew
Wmoater
Active member
Utahpete here is a YouTube video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTWmuSaDdB4&t=3131s
