Snoking1127
Well-known member
I tow strap off the front to a 4 wheeler!!!
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Anybody see a measurable change in fuel mileage with larger diameter rear tire?
- Thread starter Tslepebull
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racoon
Well-known member
I have been thinking about this, and think I found a way to get close to 40 mpg.
I have a 2023 Honda Ridgeline truck, a Stinger CAN-AM trailer, and of course my 2024 Spyder RT S2S.
I track the fuel mileage on my Ridgeline, and usually get 21 to 22 mpg.
I know that the fuel mileage will go down some when I hook up the trailer and load up the Spyder, but the combined fuel mileage of the Truck/Stinger/Spyder combination should at least approach 40 mpg!
I have a 2023 Honda Ridgeline truck, a Stinger CAN-AM trailer, and of course my 2024 Spyder RT S2S.
I track the fuel mileage on my Ridgeline, and usually get 21 to 22 mpg.
I know that the fuel mileage will go down some when I hook up the trailer and load up the Spyder, but the combined fuel mileage of the Truck/Stinger/Spyder combination should at least approach 40 mpg!
Now far a serious question. What would a Stage II upgrade do for MPG on my bike as long as I don't change my riding style much? Knowing it will cost approximately $500 for the upgrade, will it ever pay for itself? To date since I have owned the bike my gas cost is $103.42/1000mi. Also I realize that once I have the upgrade I can never use less than 91 octane. I pretty much do that now anyway. My financial advisor (wife) will want to see the payback period. We ride a lot. Presently don't have a problem with performance, just wanting to squeeze out as much efficiency as I can. Already have installed the Cat delete and use the spark plug upgrade.
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Without knowing how conservatively you ride now, which could make a fair bit of difference; but assuming that you're still talking about fuel economy improvements and that you ride pretty much in the low to mid range of your 1330's revs (like most), ie. not exactly 'ultra-conservatively' but also not 'mad as a cut snake', then the answer to that bit is 'probably very little, but maybe you'll get a slight improvement in mpg...'
The V-Twin motors are more likely to show a noticeable improvement in mpg from just an ECU Upgrade, especially a Stage II, with no other change in riding style/rev use, etc, cos they are pretty hard to ride without using some revs anyway, and a better state of tune from their ECU will likely show the benefit of using those revs; while the 1330's are an inherently lazy motor (albeit with scads of torque from right off idle) that needs a bit of a poke in the revs to wake it up anyway!! So if you aren't already using the mid to upper rev range of your 1330 a heap anyway, you probably won't see too much change in the mpg, altho it'll probably give you a little bit more 'excitement' from the better responsiveness you might get at the same revs you used before as you ride now/after the Stage II. Maybe...
So really, it's unlikely that a Stage II ECU Upgrade (or any ECU Upgrade) on a 1330 will ever actually 'pay for itself' per se - except maybe in the enjoyment you get from your riding, and that's gonna be somewhat personal and extremely subjective, and likely somewhat greater the more you DO 'change your riding style' to take advantage of the better responsiveness and performance, higher revs, etc, etc!
But then again, we didn't really buy our Spyders because of their phenomenal fuel economy anyway, did we?!
Just Sayin'
Yes. Stage II will NOT increase your MPGs. However, if used incorrectly, it can quickly put you in a position you may not want to be in. It's fun to play with, but do it safely. Anticipate its speed and be ready for it when it comes in.So really, it's unlikely that a Stage II ECU Upgrade (or any ECU Upgrade) on a 1330 will ever actually 'pay for itself' per se - except maybe in the enjoyment you get from your riding, and that's gonna be somewhat personal and extremely subjective, and likely somewhat greater the more you DO 'change your riding style' to take advantage of the better responsiveness and performance, higher revs, etc, etc!
Metalman
Member
According to my manual, it says that my 2023 RTL should have 28 psi in the rear tire. I'm wondering if I increase the pressure by a few pounds, if that will increase my fuel mileage. I understand that some people have mentioned the tire wears out in the center of the tread if the tire pressure is too high. But what is too high?
BajaRon
Well-known member
If you are running the OEM Kenda, it will wear in the middle regardless of tire pressure. Overpressuring any tire will give you better fuel mileage. It will tend to reduce the contact patch and stiffen the contact area. Both will reduce roll resistance which is good for fuel mileage.
But as I always say, everything is a compromise. Increasing one area of benefit will almost always bring sacrifices in another. You will find lower traction with adverse handling and control when you raise tire pressure above what it should be. With the reward of very slight fuel savings.
Solid rubber tires would give you the best fuel mileage. But no one makes them because the ride, handling, and safety would be horrendous.
If you're still running the OEM tires, then adding/subtracting anything much more than about 2 psi from their Recommended Pressure is going to be too much, and you'll be lucky if the only issue you see from over-inflating one of those tires is JUST even more rapid wear in the centre of the tread than they already do!! Over-inflating a tire by even just a little significantly reduces their ability to conform over and absorb the impact from road debris, pot holes, etc, without blowing; and it also significantly reduces their ability to provide traction, causing the tread to hop and skip on the bumps etc, caning the suspension in the process, and limiting the tires ability to stay in contact with the road surface - until the tire explodes, anyway!! So for the OEM tires on your Spyder, anything from about 30 psi on up is too high, and even running 29 psi might be too high if you've drawn the short straw on the quality of your tires!
That aside, by over-inflating your rear tire, you MIGHT get a little better fuel economy - probably thru reduced rolling resistance more than anything else, but that too means 'loss of traction'!!
However, any improvement in fuel economy achieved by just varying the tire pressure, especially if it's by anything less than about 20%, is likely to be around 2/5ths of 5/8ths of absofreakinlutely sweet... VERY LITTLE, and given the OEM tires and their lightweight construction (and their renowned poor quality control! 
) the increased risks of catastrophic tire failure thru varying their tire pressure much at all will far outweigh any potential (minimal) benefit! 
Just Sayin'
Ron and Peter have it down to pretty much what's what when it comes to MPGs and tire wear. Think about it. BRP designed a Spyder but did not design tires for it. So we're left with what we've got to choose from. We're riding a 1K pound vehicle and using tires designed for a vehicle weighing 4 or 5K. On top of that, our Spyder's rear tire is only supporting half of that. 500 pounds and the front two only 250 pounds each. There's nothing out there designed to meet those needs for max performance or safety. We just have to do with what we've got... for the time being. Don't waste your time overthinking it because you can't. If you want to play around with it, find yourself a large empty blacktop parking lot that's dry on one side and wet on the other side. Get your tires wet on one side and drive around on the dry side, and watch your tire patterns. But remember, the tire patch will change at highway speeds. I've found that about 18 PSI is the sweet spot for me in terms of wear and performance. Good luck, be safe, and have fun all at the same time.
Snoking1127
Well-known member
Tire weight ratings are base on ply ratings/inflation table and max speed rating. I lowering the inflation creates lower capacity, lower max speed increases capacity. There is no issue with car tires when inflation is decreases to account for the lighter load. Driving over a piece of white paper can be used to see foot print the tire is putting to the ground at a given inflation. Or just go with what other are doing and inflation your front car tires to 16-17 lbs and the rear to 18-19. Ride ON!
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