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Access to back of left and right fuse blocks
- Thread starter seaweed
- Start date
SpyderCruiser
New member
Yes you can, that is how I got switched power. The fuse blocks unmount. I had my frunk off when I did this so have no idea if you can remove the fuse blocks with it on.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
:agree: ..... and I'm pretty sure the frunk has to come off because the wiring harness is short …. good luck …. Mike
hyea:
JayBros
Well-known member
I agree with Mike on this; all the wiring is short except for the light connections to the frunk. Had mine off just last week fixing a radiator grill strike by an Arkansas rabbit. He lost!
BTW, if you pull the frunk to get to the fuse blocks, be sure to reconnect all the wiring before you start the Spyder to check your work. If you don't and leave the wrong connection undone and start the Spyder, it will throw two codes about the ambient air pressure and temperature sensor. Once you make the errant connection the codes will disappear.
BTW, if you pull the frunk to get to the fuse blocks, be sure to reconnect all the wiring before you start the Spyder to check your work. If you don't and leave the wrong connection undone and start the Spyder, it will throw two codes about the ambient air pressure and temperature sensor. Once you make the errant connection the codes will disappear.
seaweed
Member
I was afraid that the frunk had to come off to get to the back of the fuse blocks. Yes I know that Mike (Blueknight911) says that it is very easy. So I guess that I will tackle that job. By the way Mike how many times have you taken the frunk off? I am guessing more that just a few!!:clap:
JayBros
Well-known member
Like a number of things on a Spyder RT, the first time through can be a bit intimidating, but the second and subsequent times it's a lot easier. Here is what I believe in a very good video on removing the frunk.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nw5atKHlmp4.
In my experience, the two times I've removed the frunk the most time consuming step was reconnecting the air inlet tube to the air box when reassembling everything. The first time it was pretty easy but on the second time I had to diddle with it bit more to get the connection on as it is supposed to be. A little patience was all I needed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nw5atKHlmp4.
In my experience, the two times I've removed the frunk the most time consuming step was reconnecting the air inlet tube to the air box when reassembling everything. The first time it was pretty easy but on the second time I had to diddle with it bit more to get the connection on as it is supposed to be. A little patience was all I needed.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
The AIR inlet thing is probably why the dealers charge so much if they have to remove it ………….. You really Don't have to have it completely connected for it to work as designed …. If you look at my Albums there is a pic of my 3 inch air intake pipe …. I have not had any water issues either …. good luck … Mike
hyea:
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
I re-moved and not re-placed my OEM skid plate quite awhile ago …. but I think the TWO 10mm bolts ( not the nuts ) come off and the skid plate stays on ….. Mike
hyea:
