600mile (1000km) check-up FIRST Maintenance (RS 2010 SM5)

[groundeffect]

Hi there everyone.

I have a ways to go before I reach 1000km on my Spyder RS 2010 SM5 (Quantum Blue ), but I want to prepare for it (in case parts need shipping time, etc...).

So, as I understand (from the 2010 Owner's Manual), the FIRST MAINTENANCE (600miles / 1000km) check, requires the following checks/adjustments/lubrication:
(10 items):
- REPLACE Engine Oil and Oil Filter
- INSPECT/CHECK Oil tank strainer
- INSPECT Engine Coolant
- INSPECT Fault Codes (Active codes and history codes - USING BUDS)
- INSPECT Spark Plugs
- INSPECT/ADJUST Drive Belt (wear, alignment and tension)
- INSPECT Tread wear and pressure before each ride (p. 91) pre-ride inspections
- LUBRICATE Suspension Arms
- INSPECT/ADJUST Parking Brake
- INSPECT Storage compartment latch



As far as I can tell, I will NEED: (I will be ordering the things I need from my local dealer):
- Oil Filter
- ALL associated o-rings for the oil change/cover, etc...
- Oil
- Pick up proper / dealer suggested lubrication for suspension arms



I will NOT be neglecting these checks, and I will be completing most of these items, myself, with the exception of the following I will ask the Dealer to fully complete:
- INSPECT Fault Codes (Active codes and history codes - USING BUDS)
- INSPECT/ADJUST Drive Belt (wear, alignment and tension)




Fellow Spyder Owners/Ryders, what else do I require, what am I missing to complete the items on this list, myself? What type of lubricate do you recommend for lubricating the suspension arms?

Thank you for your time
Cheers from Newfoundland.
Dean

 

[krb1945]

Lube for the suspension arms...

I use synthetic to lube the arms. Any good premium lube will do the job though. I just prefer the A/O synthetic since I've used it for 30 years now. /Ken

 

[groundeffect]

I use synthetic to lube the arms. Any good premium lube will do the job though. I just prefer the A/O synthetic since I've used it for 30 years now. /Ken

The lub for the suspension, Ken, do you recommend a specific product name/brand?

Thanks
Dean

 

[spyryder]

The lub for the suspension, Ken, do you recommend a specific product name/brand?

Thanks
Dean

You can get BRP XPS synthetic grease, or something similar.

http://www.parkeryamaha.com/brpxp-ssyntheticgrease14oztube293550010.aspx

 

[groundeffect]

Thanks Spyryder

Scotty pointed out ( and I would have missed it ), that the 1000km check requires to check/clean the oil strainer. While we are in there we should also replace the oil strainer o-ring.



The Oil Strainer O-Ring appears to be the same as the Dipstick O-Ring PART NUMBER: 709000218


I've added this part to my list.

Thanks



Anything else, guys?

 

[Sarge707]

You can get BRP XPS synthetic grease, or something similar.

http://www.parkeryamaha.com/brpxp-ssyntheticgrease14oztube293550010.aspx

http://www.parkeryamaha.com/xps-synthetic-suspension-grease.aspx

How? and Where? do you lube the suspension?
I looked in my service manual and its NOT covered!! \
Are there any nipples or points of contact to lube?:dontknow:

 

[spyryder]

How? and Where? do you lube the suspension?
I looked in my service manual and its NOT covered!! \
Are there any nipples or points of contact to lube?:dontknow:

Eight nipples on your inner upper and lower control arm bushings. Piece of cake to get at if the trunk is removed. Otherwise you might want to install 90 degree fittings. :f_spider:

 

[NancysToy]

How? and Where? do you lube the suspension?
I looked in my service manual and its NOT covered!! \
Are there any nipples or points of contact to lube?:dontknow:

:hun: The front suspension lubrication is shown in my GS service manual. First page of front suspension portion of Section 7 - Chassis.

 

[Sarge707]

:hun: The front suspension lubrication is shown in my GS service manual. First page of front suspension portion of Section 7 - Chassis.

Your Exactly Right!:yikes:

Good thing I,m retired? Reading that manual could take a while?:roflblack:

 

[groundeffect]

:hun: The front suspension lubrication is shown in my GS service manual. First page of front suspension portion of Section 7 - Chassis.

Are you referring to the attached images:dontknow:, Scotty? I just checked my Spyder in the garage just then and found the grease fittings - there are indeed two per arm - two on each arm, for a total of 8.


Scotty - Is it possible to lub these points without taking the wheel off? Do you recommend using a grease gun, or how do you recommend to get lub in there and down these grease fittings? ( Pls correct me if I'm wrong, but basically these fittings are used with a gun to inject grease down into the joint, correct?

Thanks

 

[groundeffect]

Grease Gun + Extension???

Scotty, I was thinking of picking up a grease gun and a flexible hose extension, perhaps I can get in there at each of the fittings without taking the wheels off with one?:dontknow:

I couldn't see a reference to the size of the grease fittings on the suspension arms. Do you know if they are standard sizes (1/8" NPT fittings???)


Cheers,
Dean

 

[bone crusher]

Hi there everyone.

I have a ways to go before I reach 1000km on my Spyder RS 2010 SM5 (Quantum Blue ), but I want to prepare for it (in case parts need shipping time, etc...).

So, as I understand (from the 2010 Owner's Manual), the FIRST MAINTENANCE (600miles / 1000km) check, requires the following checks/adjustments/lubrication:
(10 items):
- REPLACE Engine Oil and Oil Filter
- INSPECT/CHECK Oil tank strainer
- INSPECT Engine Coolant
- INSPECT Fault Codes (Active codes and history codes - USING BUDS)
- INSPECT Spark Plugs
- INSPECT/ADJUST Drive Belt (wear, alignment and tension)
- INSPECT Tread wear and pressure before each ride (p. 91) pre-ride inspections
- LUBRICATE Suspension Arms
- INSPECT/ADJUST Parking Brake
- INSPECT Storage compartment latch



As far as I can tell, I will NEED: (I will be ordering the things I need from my local dealer):
- Oil Filter
- ALL associated o-rings for the oil change/cover, etc...
- Oil
- Pick up proper / dealer suggested lubrication for suspension arms



I will NOT be neglecting these checks, and I will be completing most of these items, myself, with the exception of the following I will ask the Dealer to fully complete:
- INSPECT Fault Codes (Active codes and history codes - USING BUDS)
- INSPECT/ADJUST Drive Belt (wear, alignment and tension)




Fellow Spyder Owners/Ryders, what else do I require, what am I missing to complete the items on this list, myself? What type of lubricate do you recommend for lubricating the suspension arms?

Thank you for your time
Cheers from Newfoundland.
Dean

Why not have the dealer do this for you? Is the dealer too far away or do you just enjoy working on the bike yourself? My dealer is about 70ish miles away but they are very good to me...I don't mind paying them as they haven't, to date, made any whoopsies yet...well, they did break my throttlemeister, but that was due to a 'slip' while putting on the ESI risers...all is good now though...

 

[NancysToy]

I'm not sure of the grease fitting sizes. There are a couple of types. If you want to do this yourself, the 90 degree fittings are virtually a necessity, unless you get a 90 degree grease gun adapter instead. That is best used with a separate grease gun, if you also need a straight model for other chores. I just had the dealer do the lube when he had the Spyder for service. Best way to get the correct fittings is to temporarily remove one, and match it up at the auto parts store. You may be able to lube without taking the wheel off, with a grease gun hose extension, but it seems like a bigger bother than removing the wheel.

 

[groundeffect]

Why not have the dealer do this for you? Is the dealer too far away or do you just enjoy working on the bike yourself? My dealer is about 70ish miles away but they are very good to me...I don't mind paying them as they haven't, to date, made any whoopsies yet...well, they did break my throttlemeister, but that was due to a 'slip' while putting on the ESI risers...all is good now though...

I enjoy doing the work myself.... at least the easier work such as greasing fittings/joints and oil changes, checking fluid levels, light operations, etc...
Things like BUDS of course will be left to them, and belt tension adjustments and such, etc...
Thanks

 

[groundeffect]

I'm not sure of the grease fitting sizes. There are a couple of types. If you want to do this yourself, the 90 degree fittings are virtually a necessity, unless you get a 90 degree grease gun adapter instead. That is best used with a separate grease gun, if you also need a straight model for other chores. I just had the dealer do the lube when he had the Spyder for service. Best way to get the correct fittings is to temporarily remove one, and match it up at the auto parts store. You may be able to lube without taking the wheel off, with a grease gun hose extension, but it seems like a bigger bother than removing the wheel.

Thanks, Scotty, if I do the greasing myself, I removing one for a few mins as I drop into Princess Auto to find a match may be the best way to go.

Thanks.

 

[groundeffect]

Lubricating Suspension arms

update: Scotty, I took a closer look at the fittings. I cleaned the area around a fitting and removed it using a 7mm wrench, took a look and reinstalled it. When I go to the shop, I will the wrench with me, take it off in the parking lot and try to match a size with a gun and extension in the store.

* In looking at all 8 of the grease fittings, I noticed the upper fittings do not have a lot of room around them, but maybe an extension will work. I also found two loose fitting on the bottom compared to the other 7, so I just slightly snugged it (1/16th of a turn)



When greasing the suspension arm fittings:
1) How does one bleed out old/used grease?

2) How much grease is good to install?

 

[Sarge707]

Thanks, Scotty, if I do the greasing myself, I removing one for a few mins as I drop into Princess Auto to find a match may be the best way to go.

Thanks.

Be interested to see how you do it? Have not done mine yet but hope too when it warms up!:2thumbs:

 

[spyryder]

Good luck getting at those fittings without removing the trunk. It's really hard getting in from the sides with the wheels and fenders in the way.

The trunk comes off pretty easily actually....you'll be glad you did.

There's also some plastic ducting for the radiator/oil cooler in the way of a couple of those fittings. Those are at the back of the upper arms if I remember correctly. Undo the screws holding the tops of them in place and push them back to gain easy access.

 

[groundeffect]

An update: I talked with my dealer today. I went in and sat down with him for about 15mins explaining the issues with the trunk liner (12v outlet hole off by about 4inchs - done by PDI dept) and the overfilled oil tank (by 12oz, done by PDI dept.). I mentioned I fixed both issues myself, by suctioning out the overfilled 12oz of oil 4oz at a time with a suction gun, rechecking the old the accurate way each time, to be sure I was right on. I also mentioned I cut a hole in my trunk liner to access the 12V outlet, and I'm leaving the velcro cover over the hole where the 12V outlet hole should have been cut.

He agreed, of course that this was not good and it never should have happened. I also agreed and asked he pass the points along to the PDI dept. (that there is a template that comes with the 12V outlet to place the mark for the hole in the correct place to line up with the trunk liner, AND I also mentioned the accurate way to check the oil, which is in the manual AND it is on a sticker on the oil tank).

Basically it was a really good conversation, tactful and satisfactory. I have an appointment scheduled for my Spyder to undergo it's 1000km maintenance checks by their head Spyder (BRP trained) mechanic. As a result of the two issues described above, I will be getting a major discount on the maintenance work labor and materials. Time will tell just how much, but I have faith there will not be any issue on that in that area.


All in all, I was happy with the conversation, and I will drop in for my scheduled check-up soon. Here is to the start of building a good relationship with my local Dealer!



As such, I will be letting the dealer handle the greasing of the front suspension arms (this time around), and will be my job thereafter.

I did have a PM with a member of the form, and as Scotty has suggested, replacing the fittings with 90 degree angled fittings would be a good way to go for these 8 fittings. I would think that with new fittings, the trunk may not have to be removed?:dontknow:


Everyone: I appreciate your time and replies on this ( and the "oil change parts" topic. Thank you.


I will, to learn and check up on things, will going over the instructions and some of the steps for the 1000km check-up myself, once they are completed from the dealer, for I will be doing as much maintenance on my Spyder after the first check, as possible.

Cheers.