2017 F3 (SE) Nanny OFF performance?

[TRLBLZR1]

We'll be watching for "Tire Smoke & Wide Grins!"

(No real interest in burning up tires though. Just too expensive and PITA to replace.) Plus, I was always worried about the machine getting away from me. Was the wheelie thing (and the twisties) that I was into
(Had one accident in all my years on sportbikes/GSXR's, and that accident was the result of a 1100cc 100 mph wheelie that "went bad" due to circumstances beyond my control.)

Was riding with someone who did something really stupid/unexpected. We both paid the price..... "Live & Learn." ~ One reason I'm now on 3 wheels. Wheelie days are long gone by and I don't want to be tempted.
(Don't want to be tempted to wear off the edges of my shoes in the high speed s-curves either.) Just want to have a little extra fun now and then. :2thumbs:​

 

[TRLBLZR1]

Well, pulling the plug didn't really work..... If it did, mine is a slug.....

Here's what happened with sensor disconnected:
Constant warning on dash (big letters scrolling) that passenger seat switch is defective. (when unplugged)
And the yellow warning traction/slip indicator lamp was always on & solidly lit.

Think I need to either build a "cup" to keep seat from hitting switch. (Or cut the nipple off the underside of the seat which hits the big button-switch.) Anybody know the part number for the bypass switch used for the "bobtail kit?'

 

[Peter Aawen]

Is there anywhere under the seat where you can tuck the (taken off the seat base) switch arrangement so it can't be activated?!? :dontknow:

My RT has a little space under the seat where I can upend the switch thingie once it's dosconnected from the seat, and that way avoid any chance of the switch activating altho it still remains connected & (theoretically) operational.....

Cheers

 

[TRLBLZR1]

Is there anywhere under the seat where you can tuck the (taken off the seat base) switch arrangement so it can't be activated?!? :dontknow:

My RT has a little space under the seat where I can upend the switch thingie once it's dosconnected from the seat, and that way avoid any chance of the switch activating altho it still remains connected & (theoretically) operational.....

Cheers

Hi Peter;

Was thinking about that. And It may be possible to flip switch upside down or possibly mount the switch so that the mount is beneath the plastic (instead of on top) thus lowering it's profile. For the time being, I rolled up a sponge and tucked it under the seat thus applying more upward pressure. That extra pressure did seem to make a difference on my way home from work this evening lol. Have to watch gauges closely next time with sponge in place. ~ Because I don't recall seeing the anti-slip flashing when accelerating out of a corner with tire getting a touch loose. (Maybe I just didn't see it flashing. Also, the cooler evening air definitely makes a difference in power delivery.)

As for the switch: I'm surprised that it's got such a weak spring..... Way too light for an engineering/design standpoint. About 6oz. in a soda can (placed on top of it) would be enough to activate it.

I'd bet that one of the 3 wires could be disconnected from the switch thus achieving a bypass. The question is, which one? I think the 3 colors were red, blue & green. Have to take another peek.
Anyone know?????

 

[TRLBLZR1]

Finally got nanny anti-slip to remain disengaged, but doesn't quite give the expected results.
(LCD indicator remains on and so does the anti-slip yellow indicator on speedo. So far, so good.....)

Tires on F3-S possibly a bit too sticky for wheel slip, tire pressure just right, or maybe gearing/ECM programming?.... Tires still don't want to break loose. Instead, what I'm able to achieve (even hanging off side of seat/bars with full-on throttle from dead stop & handlebars turned a little) is: Inside front wheel comes off ground a few inches without nanny kicking in, BUT seldom is there any tire spin/slip. ~ Just like carbide picks/sticky track & carbide runners on a snowmobile. She accelerates hard, but the rear tire sticks like glue. I think I'd prefer another tooth (or two) on the rear sprocket! (I'm sure I'd have no problems spinning rear with a manual clutch, but not on this SE.)

People speak poorly of the stock tires. But the ones on this bike are very GOOD imo. (Or is it the suspension IDK?)
That being said: A little predictable tire-slip would kick the rear out a bit and keep front inner tire/wheel down. (Once in a while it would be fun to counter-steer. ~ @ 200 lbs., I just can't typically achieve this with the stock setup on this Daytona SE.)

FWIW: With traction control off, I have a Spyder that does "Spawheelies" instead of breaking traction & counter-steering lol.
I refuse to hold brake & throttle at same time to build power at a stop. (No interest in abusing the machine like that. Although maybe that's what it takes on the 2017 SE?)

 

[Pirate looks at --]

My machine (Daytona 500 F3-S SE) is supposed to have 115 hp. The BRP videos show it "smoking" tires on the track during counter-steering maneuvers. Really? LOL!
(If I really tried/wanted to, I think I could make more noise with the tires using the brakes than the throttle lol/col.)

It does. By turning off the Nanny I assume that you meant putting it in sport mode, as that does not turn off the Nanny it just sedated her a bit. If in sport mode, you can't spin the tire, then you need to get it to a dealer, there is something wrong with your machine, or yiour definition of "full throttle". This is a no brained and with a full rapid twist of the throttle you can burn a hole in that rear tire. I have done it on the Daytone numerous times.

 

[TRLBLZR1]

It does. By turning off the Nanny I assume that you meant putting it in sport mode, as that does not turn off the Nanny it just sedated her a bit. If in sport mode, you can't spin the tire, then you need to get it to a dealer, there is something wrong with your machine, or yiour definition of "full throttle". This is a no brained and with a full rapid twist of the throttle you can burn a hole in that rear tire. I have done it on the Daytone numerous times.

That's what I keep thinking (back to dealer thing)..... Full stop and crack throttle to 100%.... Takes off, but won't spin rear. Once in a while when turning onto side road etc. I can get some (only a little) wheel slip when going to full throttle in apex of turn. (1'st gear) Other than that, she feels like she's a bit restricted. (Only at lower rpm's and that's why I thought maybe gearing.)

Note: On HOT pavement on COOL/DRY days, she's more likely to spin/chirp a little, but even then not predictably. (And at ~200 lbs. I don't see it being a "mass" issue.)

 

[Thrashb12]

Just got my 2015 F3s SM6 but my problem is not spinning the tire on spirited acceleration.

Mike in NH

 

[pauly1]

Road way surface does affect wheel spun ability. My '15 F3S will spin at will. I demo rode a '17 F3 LTD with the RT-sized sprocket and it was noticeably poorer in acceleration. Check your rear sprocket: it should be nearly the same size as the rim. The switch under the rear seat activated very easily: it is not an engineering thing as you implied. BRP staff was very deliberate in the design. And finally, weight matters: more weight changes the grab of the rear tire. And I call vouch for Blueknight RT wheel spin although he doesn't run stock tires.

Wayne

P.s.: my wife's ST LTD will lay a longer strip than my F3S.

 

[Dennis in Lodi]

Layng rubber

My Flashed 2016 F3L has the larger 89 tooth sprocket and shares the same get up and go as the F3S. With the ECU flash the nanny is tamed even more than it was stock as I can lay down 30' to 50' of rubber with just a little power up. Once these Spyders get loose the free spin gets kind of excessive with not much forward motion. Thin line between excessive and a chirp on take off. Takes a little practice.

Road way surface does affect wheel spun ability. My '15 F3S will spin at will. I demo rode a '17 F3 LTD with the RT-sized sprocket and it was noticeably poorer in acceleration. Check your rear sprocket: it should be nearly the same size as the rim. The switch under the rear seat activated very easily: it is not an engineering thing as you implied. BRP staff was very deliberate in the design. And finally, weight matters: more weight changes the grab of the rear tire. And I call vouch for Blueknight RT wheel spin although he doesn't run stock tires.

Wayne

P.s.: my wife's ST LTD will lay a longer strip than my F3S.

 

[TRLBLZR1]

Sprockets.....

Last post got me to thinking about sprockets.
Wondering why it's not feasible to just drop a tooth on the front.

Speedo not effected.
Rev limiter controlled by RPM's.
Wheel slip presumably measured/compared via 3 sensors on each tire & an accelerometer.
Only difference I would presume is slightly higher automatic downshifting on the SE.

Anyone tried this? Why wouldn't this work?

 

[Willt]

I've got a new 2017 F3-S Daytona and I can't get the rear wheel to break loose for anything on dry pavement. This factory tire is stiiiiicky. It isn't under powered, 0-100% throttle causes a rocket like take off. But that tire just won't give. If I get some lateral forces on it, I can get it to swing out left or right, but going in a straight line it just hunkers down and grips.

 

[TRLBLZR1]

I've got a new 2017 F3-S Daytona and I can't get the rear wheel to break loose for anything on dry pavement. This factory tire is stiiiiicky. It isn't under powered, 0-100% throttle causes a rocket like take off. But that tire just won't give. If I get some lateral forces on it, I can get it to swing out left or right, but going in a straight line it just hunkers down and grips.

Assuming it's an SE (paddle shift) like mine?
Sending mine out for ECU reprogramming. Because on the few occasions I'd like the tire to slip and it doesn't.... Result is inside wheel coming up off ground. More dangerous than slip IMO. (I'm not into wasting tires, but once in a while, being able to reliably get a little counter-steering during full acceleration from stop into a corner [like the ads show] would be fun. ) ~ Sometimes I think I should have gone with the clutch version.

 

[Willt]

Assuming it's an SE (paddle shift) like mine?
Sending mine out for ECU reprogramming. Because on the few occasions I'd like the tire to slip and it doesn't.... Result is inside wheel coming up off ground. More dangerous than slip IMO. (I'm not into wasting tires, but once in a while, being able to reliably get a little counter-steering during full acceleration from stop into a corner [like the ads show] would be fun. ) ~ Sometimes I think I should have gone with the clutch version.

Correct, SE. Mine will slip around a corner, just zero slip in a straight line. As soon as lateral forces are involved the rear will slide out about a foot or so. First time it did it, it felt like the rear end was on casters and was very odd. Now I come to expect it. This is all with "sport mode" off, all the nannies engaged. I've only had a front wheel lift once so far, and that was a rolling (no throttle) 90 degree turn at about 20 MPH. Inside tire lifted just enough to have no contact and see a little bit of sunlight under the rubber, then I applied a lot of throttle, the rear shifted an inch or so, front came down, and off I went.

My last Spyder was a 2010 RSS and this new F3 is way more enjoyable to ride and the nannies are way better tuned for actual street riding. The 2010 nannies would constantly get in the way causing power dropouts at the most annoying of times. More often actually making certain situations a little more dangerous because not only was I dealing with the situation, I was dealing with the bike handling unpredictably.

 

[TRLBLZR1]

Correct, SE. Mine will slip around a corner, just zero slip in a straight line. As soon as lateral forces are involved the rear will slide out about a foot or so. First time it did it, it felt like the rear end was on casters and was very odd. Now I come to expect it. This is all with "sport mode" off, all the nannies engaged. I've only had a front wheel lift once so far, and that was a rolling (no throttle) 90 degree turn at about 20 MPH. Inside tire lifted just enough to have no contact and see a little bit of sunlight under the rubber, then I applied a lot of throttle, the rear shifted an inch or so, front came down, and off I went.

My last Spyder was a 2010 RSS and this new F3 is way more enjoyable to ride and the nannies are way better tuned for actual street riding. The 2010 nannies would constantly get in the way causing power dropouts at the most annoying of times. More often actually making certain situations a little more dangerous because not only was I dealing with the situation, I was dealing with the bike handling unpredictably.

I can't rely on any spin from stop on even on turn (nanny on or off)..... (Maybe with damp/wet tire, but that's about it.) More dangerous IMO when it won't spin on turn/hard acceleration from dead stop and you expect it to. Result is: Instead of rear tire slide at , you end up with inside front wheel lift instead and backing off the throttle. (instead of being able to counter-steer) Hate when that happens and others are watching... (I know what they're thinking lol.)