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2014 RTS Windshield

spyderdmb1621

New member
I am not a big fan of the stock BRP RT windshields, I just ordered an F4 Windshield, but tinted, mine will have the vent (like on the gold wings as well) F4 makes a top notch windshield for 370 clams.

image.jpg
 
I am not a big fan of the stock BRP RT windshields, I just ordered an F4 Windshield, but tinted, mine will have the vent (like on the gold wings as well) F4 makes a top notch windshield for 370 clams.

View attachment 81292

How come sometime your posts look like Goobly Gook and sometimes they are fine? Good Whisky????
:dontknow:
Cruzr joe

Now it is fine again???????? May be my computer
 
windshield

USER EROR!!!!! LOL

:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
How come sometime your posts look like Goobly Gook and sometimes they are fine? Good Whisky????
:dontknow:
Cruzr joe

Now it is fine again???????? May be my computer
 
Aftermarket Windshields

It seems like every stock motorcycle windshield can be improved upon judging by the dozens of aftermarket windscreens on the market. Vented and wider ones help to reduce buffeting quite a bit as do "flip" flared upper edges to kick airflow up over the rider's head with a shorter windshield.
 
Aftermarket shields....

You are right about OEM shields being marginal. Manufacturers of motorcycle concentrate on the machine it seems, then throw a piece of polycarbonate (or much worse, acrylic) up there for a windscreen! That is good for us, because our business is the creation and testing of that part of the bike in order to make a better, less-fatiguing and safer ride! There is science involved, yes, but the feedback of the riders is probably the most crucial fine-tuning tool that we use. The evolution of a shield from "good" to "excellent" takes time! We strive constantly to address rider's concerns when they have purchased one of our shields. That is why we consider the use of an F4 shield to be a safety upgrade due to the perfect optical clarity and the rain shedding capability, among other features. The manufacturer of the bike compromises in many areas. When it comes to windshields, we don't compromise, we believe we make the best.
 
Good to know..!!

thanks..do send some pic's when done to see how it turns out as well as your review after you ryde around a bit in difference circumstances....:thumbup:
 
You are right about OEM shields being marginal. Manufacturers of motorcycle concentrate on the machine it seems, then throw a piece of polycarbonate (or much worse, acrylic) up there for a windscreen! That is good for us, because our business is the creation and testing of that part of the bike in order to make a better, less-fatiguing and safer ride! There is science involved, yes, but the feedback of the riders is probably the most crucial fine-tuning tool that we use. The evolution of a shield from "good" to "excellent" takes time! We strive constantly to address rider's concerns when they have purchased one of our shields. That is why we consider the use of an F4 shield to be a safety upgrade due to the perfect optical clarity and the rain shedding capability, among other features. The manufacturer of the bike compromises in many areas. When it comes to windshields, we don't compromise, we believe we make the best.


Everything about anything you buy is a compromise. Between designers, bean counters, a very fickle consumers base and all of the other factors involved, nothing meets the very specific needs of anybody. That is why the aftermarket is full of very good products that allow the consumer a wide variety of options for customizing their vehicle. However, that customization also reduces the number of people that will see your unit as the perfect answer for them. This is why most dealers reduce trade in value when custom paint, painted pin stripes and any other form of non-reversible customizing is involved.
 
hazu3esa.jpg


On my 2014 it's tinted
 
Dark or Light Gray Tint

Being as that picture was taken in a dark garage it's a tough call on how dark the tint really is. I usually get a light gray tint when I buy a windshield.
 
ECO Mode-2014 RTS SE6

I finely received my 2014 RTS SE6 Spyder, I treaded in my 2010 RTS SE5. I have some questions on how and when to use the ECO Mode. #1.- Do I always use the Spyder in the ECO Mode? #2. When, in the ECO Mode, and it indicates when to shift up 1, 2, 3, etc. around town it tells me to shift all the way up to 6, however I am only going about 50 mph and at about 2500 RPM is this ok to ride at this low RPM's ?? My 2010 needed to be over 3000 RPM and I shifted at over 5000 RPM's . Also will the transmission down shift by it self when needed or do I need to down shift myself?? like I used to do with my 2010.
These may sound like stupid questions, but I don't want to damage the transmission. So fare I only have 230 miles on it. Thanks for the help. :dontknow::dontknow: And by the way, this :spyder2: rides GREAT.
 
1. No, you don't.
2. Yes, its ok
3. Yes, it does downshift by itself or you can do it yourself.

It is because of the low tongue. It takes getting use to.
I usually shift from 1 to 2 around 3000 rpms.
Then I shift the others when ECO recommends 2000-2500 rpms.
Its a lot quieter, smoother, and cooler ride.
 
Good questions. :thumbup: We are all going to be in the same boat for a couple months and a couple thousand miles. We will get it figured out eventually.

So far, I am getting that eco mode is optional. Use thereof is either less power on the takeoffs, and negligible to 1 mpg more as far as gas economy goes.

I am getting antsy to get on my new one and start to play with the operation thereof. :popcorn:

Back to the windshield topic. UNHIJACK :thumbup:
 
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1. No, you don't.
2. Yes, its ok
3. Yes, it does downshift by itself or you can do it yourself.

It is because of the low tongue. It takes getting use to.
I usually shift from 1 to 2 around 3000 rpms.
Then I shift the others when ECO recommends 2000-2500 rpms.
Its a lot quieter, smoother, and cooler ride.

:agree: We've been pounding it into everybody for YEARS to rev them up...
...and now we're back to riding "tractors"! :D

You won't hurt anything with the low revs; they've even got the clutch lockup system sorted out now... :2thumbs:
 
The tint on the F4 looks pretty dark.

Is it too dark to use with an Arai dark smoke visor in the daytime?

Or ... is a tinted windshield even needed if using a dark visor?

I probably would not use the dark smoke visor at night with that much windshield tint.


Arai Dark Smoke Visor.jpeg
 
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I had one of the BRP vented windshields on my 2013 and I don't think I would bother with getting another one. The vents on their shield aren't adjustable they are either open or closed. So I would be interested in the F4 customs if they have the same adjustable vents like the Gold Wings.
 
I finely received my 2014 RTS SE6 Spyder, I treaded in my 2010 RTS SE5. I have some questions on how and when to use the ECO Mode. #1.- Do I always use the Spyder in the ECO Mode? #2. When, in the ECO Mode, and it indicates when to shift up 1, 2, 3, etc. around town it tells me to shift all the way up to 6, however I am only going about 50 mph and at about 2500 RPM is this ok to ride at this low RPM's ?? My 2010 needed to be over 3000 RPM and I shifted at over 5000 RPM's . Also will the transmission down shift by it self when needed or do I need to down shift myself?? like I used to do with my 2010.
These may sound like stupid questions, but I don't want to damage the transmission. So fare I only have 230 miles on it. Thanks for the help. :dontknow::dontknow: And by the way, this :spyder2: rides GREAT.

A few months back I said that we would now have a bunch of threads from people who can't get used to shifting at such low RPMs. I'm in the same boat as you it seems weird to shift so soon. But I found that Eco mode will not give you the upshift arrow if it detects that you are rapidly accelerating. Shifting to 6th at 50 is not out of the question on this machine. I feel that I have been shifting at 3,000 rpm which is what was recommended in the manual and when I had the Spyder hooked up to BUDS this week it showed that I was riding between 3,000 and 3,999 rpms 65% of the time.

It will downshift for you when you slow down enough or you can downshift yourself.
 
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