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2013 RT LTD - analog fuel gauge - accuracy - NOT !

I'd rather have a fuel gauge that says: "Fill me now!" when it still has gas . . . than one that says: "You should have filled me five miles ago . . . now I am empty!" ;)
 
The original gauge on my 2011 RT-AC used to bounce all over the place...it was basically unusable. I relied on the trip meter, which was easy for me because I didn't have a fuel gauge at all on my old V-Star 1300T. When I moved to Florida the guys at Central Florida Power Sports told me BRP had improved the gauge and they'd install a new one under warranty. They did so, but the new one was broken from the git go...stuck on full and never moved. They took it out and installed a third one, and that one has worked just fine. It's not prefect, but it's fairly accurate and lets me know what's going on with the gas...it pretty much agrees with my trip meter. Haven't had any problems since I had the third one put in.
 
A lot depends on how you fill it. For best results, insert the nozzle just into the fill ring. Fill slowly, and quit when feul begins to spurt out the vent slots in the ring. You can top off until it spurts ourt again, but quit there or you risk overflowing to the evap canister. The fuel tank hold 6.0 usable gallons. The rest is necessary head space for expansion and venting. The low fuel light should come on with about 1.5 gallons left. That means at low fuel light you should be able to fill about 4.5 gallons. If more, you are probably overflowing to the evap canister. If less, there is a problem with the way you are filling, or the fuel sending unit/gauge.

This is exactly how mine works 2013 RTL. When I went to pick it up when I bought it the fuel guage did not even work, the dealer changed it out with another 2013 he had in the show room. It takes some getting used to. Its really good to know when the fuel light comes on I still have 30 to 40 miles left to find another gas station.:)
 
I rode my 2013 RT Ltd yesterday for 200 miles. I filled the spyder up and at 110 miles, the fuel light came on. I ran it for another 18 miles. When I filled up, I had 128.4 miles on the trip meter. It only took 4.8 gallons. which is about 27 mpg. So, at lease, I know my spyder will do 125 miles easily with plenty of fuel left. The analog guage is terrible, as most have said. Can't you activate the digital fuel guage without unplugging the analog?
 
To date my 2012 RT limited fuel gauge has worked (still bounces) with fairly good accuracy. I usually fill after 150 miles, the gauge shows between 1/2 and 1/4. I am curious has anyone replaced the gauge with an aftermarket, and does it work any better than the standard gauge?


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Digital Gauge works but........

The digital gauge works, but once it hits 1/2 full (or empty depending on whether you are a pessimist or optimist), it drops to empty very quickly. I usually get overly optimistic when I have gone over 100 miles to the 1/2 way mark, but then 40 miles later the fuel light comes on. I guess the best answer is to figure on filling at around 130 miles or so.

The digital gauge is better than the analogue, but i wish it had a more even fuel level drop.
 
Lots of vehicles lack a linear fuel gauge response. It takes a pretty sophisticated sending unit and gauge programming to provide a linear response. It also helps to have an evenly shaped fuel tank, which contains the same volume for every inch of height. The eneven response is more evident in a motorcycle tank, due to its small volume. Most gauges I have seen drop faster in the lower half.
 
BRP's latest update for the analog fuel gauge works very well. If you want to stay with the analog gauges. Have the update done. It's painless.
 
BRP's latest update for the analog fuel gauge works very well. If you want to stay with the analog gauges. Have the update done. It's painless.

I just had my 600 miles service done on my 2013 RT Ltd. They did not mention any updates that were available.
 
I just had my 600 miles service done on my 2013 RT Ltd. They did not mention any updates that were available.

The update was to cure the bouncing fuel gauge issue(12's and back). It included a BUD's update and replacement of the gauge itself. I would think,(but do not know) the 13's came equipped with the change.
 
Scotty I do have to disagree.
It doesn't take much sophistication to map a linear response to a known gas tank configuration in 10 steps of resolution.
A look up table is all that it would take.
The ohmic value of the sender is correlated to a known amount of fuel.

The problem generally lies in the sender. As the float moves attached to the end of an arm, the wiper moves in an arc along the sender coil. As the fuel drops about 1/4, the change in ohms is about 1/5 the total range. Same for the next fourth of the level. The ohm change then begins to increase in proportion to the range over the remainder of the level change, and as the level drops the last fourth, the ohm value changes about 2/5 of the total range. The values do vary depeding on how the sender is constructed, but it is a matter of geometry and how the float moves in relationship to the curved resistance coil. Adding logic to the circuit would allow correction, but few fuel gauges operate that way. They are generally just simple electrical circuits. Safer than the old Model A Ford sight glass, but not as accurate. Sketch it out or play with an old sending unit. It becomes more obvious if you observe how it works. A fuel gauge is a bit of a dinosaur in this digital age, I'm afraid. :D
 
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What really is needed is a Gas/temperature gauge!:roflblack::roflblack:

Mine has one........it's called MY nose :roflblack:

Arrived in Idyllwild yesterday with a buddy of mine on his BMW. We had shut down, helmets removed and chit chatting. I said, hey Doug, come over here and smell this...he was ten or fifteen feet away and responded.........I don't need to. Enough said.
 
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fule gague

mine was on 1/4 tank this morning when i went out so i filled it and it only took 3.4 gals of gas i need to do something about it
 
analog gauges

I feel your pain and agree that a $30000 machine should have better engineering. What is even more inexcusable is the BRP attitude. i spoke to a tech rep at BRP and he said that the gauge inaccuracy was normal and then just didn't answer any more emails on the subject. It sure feels like "we got your money so just deal with it." I think the outside air temp is more crucial for those of us that ride in the cold. nothing is more critical when traversing mountainous regions and not knowing if freezing conditions are occurring. I love my spyder but i hate BRP
 
M&M, I will solve your gas gauge problem. 1) Ignore your gauge, none are accurate. 2) Set your trip meter to zero after filling the tank. 3) Run 150 miles by your trip meter and GPS (to check accuracy of trip meter). 4) Fill tank...about 5 or 5.3 gallons as you will get around 30 mpg. 5) Ignore your gauge and go by trip meter....good luck. It works for me.

:spyder2:
 
Cork..!!

Get one of these Gas gauge.jpg when the rod drops down to the last notch your outta gas, if it fails drink a bottle of wine and jam the cork at the end of the rod and your good to go..!! :roflblack::roflblack:
 
Roger, I have a question for you. You may have tried this, but I don't remember. I am curious as to whether if you tapped into the sender side of the wiring, before the cluster, and disconnected the guage side wiring, whether both the digital and analog gauges would work simultaneously? Have you ever tried?
 
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