Dan McNally
New member
I'd rather have a fuel gauge that says: "Fill me now!" when it still has gas . . . than one that says: "You should have filled me five miles ago . . . now I am empty!" 

I'd rather have a fuel gauge that says: "Fill me now!" when it still has gas . . . than one that says: "You should have filled me five miles ago . . . now I am empty!"![]()
A lot depends on how you fill it. For best results, insert the nozzle just into the fill ring. Fill slowly, and quit when feul begins to spurt out the vent slots in the ring. You can top off until it spurts ourt again, but quit there or you risk overflowing to the evap canister. The fuel tank hold 6.0 usable gallons. The rest is necessary head space for expansion and venting. The low fuel light should come on with about 1.5 gallons left. That means at low fuel light you should be able to fill about 4.5 gallons. If more, you are probably overflowing to the evap canister. If less, there is a problem with the way you are filling, or the fuel sending unit/gauge.
BRP's latest update for the analog fuel gauge works very well. If you want to stay with the analog gauges. Have the update done. It's painless.
I just had my 600 miles service done on my 2013 RT Ltd. They did not mention any updates that were available.
Scotty I do have to disagree.
It doesn't take much sophistication to map a linear response to a known gas tank configuration in 10 steps of resolution.
A look up table is all that it would take.
The ohmic value of the sender is correlated to a known amount of fuel.
A fuel gauge is a bit of a dinosaur in this digital age, I'm afraid.![]()
What really is needed is a Gas/temperature gauge!:roflblack::roflblack: