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2012 Spyder RT-S, which oil ??

Semper Fi

New member
I do know that this question has been asked before and, I know I ask close to the same question earlier. I got answers such as "read all the posts on here about oil used in the Spyder" or something close to that. I have been looking for almost 3 months trying to find which oil should be used. I have looked in the owners manual for the correct weight and codes. I have read all the threads I could find about what oil to use. I even work at a NAPA store and have all the guys there trying to figure it out. I use Rotella 5 in my Yamaha FJR 1300 and have read that someone was using that in there Spyder but not which one. I have studied Royal Purple to see which one fits the codes. I am about to go nuts!! Can someone tell me, please, which oil can be used in our Spyder. I am wondering if this one will work or, is there something better to use.


and then I also found this to make me more confused
 
oil for 2012 spyder

Bajaron a site sponsor can hook you up with 10-40 Amsoil and oil filters, Walmart sells Valvoline 10-40 full synthetic motor cycle oil, BRP sells a blended and a full synthetic oil. The Valvoline that you have a picture of is MA rated which is what you want. I have listed oils in MY order of preference, which might not match yours.

Not to be unkind, but it would seem after 3 months of thinking about this and reading the posts on oil that are available here on the forum, that perhaps you would have more than adequate information with which to make a decision.
:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

Let us know your choice and how your first oil change goes.

Al in Kazoo
 
Oil Threads are a lot like Rugby scrums: Everybody is kicking everybody else, and then soon forget why they're all in there... :shocked:
But I'll tell you, that I use BRP's semi-synthetic blend. I've never had any troubles with either of my bikes, that related to my choice! :thumbup:
 
There you have it....

So many choices so many opinions so much data...my wise old grandfather once told me "if you give people to many choices they will buy none". I have always said it you have no clue and are going crazy....stick with the one used by the manufacturer. I use XPS blend and have had no problems at all. I get the kit (oil filter oring crush washers) do my own oil change and save a bundle.... still your choice but you will never get to where you want to be...one oil...:banghead:
 
So many choices so many opinions so much data...my wise old grandfather once told me "if you give people to many choices they will buy none". I have always said it you have no clue and are going crazy....stick with the one used by the manufacturer. I use XPS blend and have had no problems at all. I get the kit (oil filter oring crush washers) do my own oil change and save a bundle.... still your choice but you will never get to where you want to be...one oil...:banghead:



Ditto:yes::yes:
 
AMSOIL 10-40

I 've been using Amsoil 10-40 In my 2013 RT-S from the first change, I used It In my Goldwings for 35 years, It Is a great product..
 
Well, personally, I change my oil twice a year. I use Rotella T6 in the fall, (usually late October), for the off-season here in WI. I also change the filter in the fall. Then, about midway through the riding season, (approx July 1st) I use the recommended BRP summer blend synthetic. In the summer I only change the oil and not the filter. Again, my preference, my bike. It's all good regardless of what you choose, as long as the oil meets the specs.
 
Oil? We don't need no stinking oil!

stinking-climate-sensitivitty.jpg
 
Bajaron a site sponsor can hook you up with 10-40 Amsoil and oil filters, Walmart sells Valvoline 10-40 full synthetic motor cycle oil, BRP sells a blended and a full synthetic oil. The Valvoline that you have a picture of is MA rated which is what you want. I have listed oils in MY order of preference, which might not match yours.

Not to be unkind, but it would seem after 3 months of thinking about this and reading the posts on oil that are available here on the forum, that perhaps you would have more than adequate information with which to make a decision.
:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

Let us know your choice and how your first oil change goes.

Al in Kazoo

I do not find what you have said in any way "unkind". If you read what you have said, and think about it, I have way to much info. Everyone saying this or that about different oils and what not, is making me nuts. It is even making the guys at NAPA nuts trying to find an oil that meets this code or that code. I was just asking for someone to tell me what brand and weight to use. Some of you have and that is great and, I thank you so much. If the oil that I have posted pics of will work, then that is what I will use. I live to far away form a Spyder dealer to go get and use, the BRP oil. There has to be something different that can be used. You guys have helped more than you can imagine and, I thank you so much for the help.
 
I too live far from a dealer but not far from a Walmart. when it was on sale I ordered several 6pacs of the Valvoline 10/40 T4 synthetic. Its not on sale any more so I just ordered a couple of 3pacs of Rotella T6 5/40 which is . It meets all the specs for a Spyder . You can order it on line and pick it up shipping free at your nearest Walmart.
 
Are you trying to save money, or do you want the best protection, or do you want good oil at a good price?

In my humble opinion.......you do NOT want an oil that is SM rated, as it has too many friction modifiers and will slip the wet clutch, regardless of what the oil bottle says. You DO want the oil to be JASO-MA rated, but ideally JASO-MA2 rated. API SH, SJ or SL rated should work, but is not ideal.

0w-40 is acceptable, this is what BRPs full synthetic all-climate XPS is. 5w-40 is acceptable, this is what BRPs semi synthetic summer blend is. 10w-40 is acceptable. Ideally you want a TRUE full synthetic, like Amsoil. Then there are oils labeled full synthetic, but they are not a TRUE synthetic, but still good. At a minimum use a semi synthetic, as a dino oil with the JASO-MA rating might not be good enough. The weaker oils will shear quicker in the gearbox, as evidenced by oil analysis.

So to recap, does the oil say it is SM (or now SN) rated? Do not use it. Does the oil bottle say JASO-MA? Good. JASO-MA-2? Better. Full synthetic? Good. Semi synthetic? OK. No synthetic? Not good.

There are many good oils available. Amsoil. Castrol Power 1 Synthetic 4T is a good one. Valvoline full synthetic Motorcycle oil is well known. I am currently using Maxima Pro Plus 10w-40 full synthetic with ester, JASO-MA2 rated. Bajaron has sold truckloads of Amsoil for Spyders, we know this is very very good TRUE synthetic oil. I know the Maxima is a TRUE synthetic.

And finally, manual or auto, twin or triple, what works OK in one might not work OK in another. The twin auto is more sensitive that the triple auto. Auto is more sensitive than the manual. Whatever you pour in, pay attention to how the clutch feels. If it is slipping, drain the oil and try another. The choice is yours. And this is all just my opinion. Make it easy and just order your filters and oil from Bajaron, problem solved.
 
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Are you trying to save money, or do you want the best protection, or do you want good oil at a good price?

In my humble opinion.......you do NOT want an oil that is SM rated, as it has too many friction modifiers and will slip the wet clutch, regardless of what the oil bottle says. You DO want the oil to be JASO-MA rated, but ideally JASO-MA2 rated. API SH, SJ or SL rated should work, but is not ideal.

0w-40 is acceptable, this is what BRPs full synthetic all-climate XPS is. 5w-40 is acceptable, this is what BRPs semi synthetic summer blend is. 10w-40 is acceptable, as long as you are not doing cold starts below like 40 degrees. Ideally you want a TRUE full synthetic, like Amsoil. Then there are oils labeled full synthetic, but they are not a TRUE synthetic, but still good. At a minimum use a semi synthetic, as a dino oil with the JASO-MA rating might not be good enough. The weaker oils will shear quicker in the gearbox, as evidenced by oil analysis.

So to recap, does the oil say it is SM (or now SN) rated? Do not use it. Does the oil bottle say JASO-MA? Good. JASO-MA-2? Better. Full synthetic? Good. Semi synthetic? OK. No synthetic? Not good.

There are many good oils available. Amsoil. Castrol Power 1 Synthetic 4T is a good one. Valvoline full synthetic Motorcycle oil is well known. I am currently using Maxima Pro Plus 10w-40 full synthetic with ester, JASO-MA2 rated. Bajaron has sold truckloads of Amsoil for Spyders, we know this is very very good TRUE synthetic oil. I know the Maxima is a TRUE synthetic.

And finally, manual or auto, twin or triple, what works OK in one might not work OK in another. The twin auto is more sensitive that the triple auto. Auto is more sensitive than the manual. Whatever you pour in, pay attention to how the clutch feels. If it is slipping, drain the oil and try another. The choice is yours. And this is all just my opinion. Make it easy and just order your filters and oil from Bajaron, problem solved.

I would agree with everything except the (Cold Starts below 40 degrees Fahrenheit). A true synthetic oil (not a modified standard oil) will be good down to zero degrees Fahrenheit. It is unfortunate that in the US a doctored mineral oil can be called 'Synthetic'. The USA is the only place in the world that this is allowed. It definitely blurs the line and leaves the consumer with the idea that all 'Synthetics' are the same.
 
I just bought a quart of Valvoline VR1 Racing oil to add for now because the oil is a bit low in our 998. This oil has a high zinc rating. I thought that would be good for now. I will change the oil in the spring and prolly just get some from Bajaron when I do. Thanks to everyone for the help, I was very confuse on what to get.
 
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