It is not the spring that is different. It is the damping unit. It was much improved for 2011/2012. The die-cast spring adjusters that were prone to breakage were also improved. You can buy the shocks (damping units) adjusting rings, and ring protectors from BRP and use your old springs if you wish. You can get a better deal by buying a set of take-off 2011/2012 shock assemblies form a dealer like Pitbull that installs Elkas, or an owner that has done the same. Look at the adjusters to make sure you are getting 2011/2012 take-off shocks. They have the steel adjusting rings. Also be sure you are not getting a set of RS shocks.
Scotty,
Some valid points, but I would offer the following thoughts.
- Shocks have 2 functions; support the weight of the bike through the springs well enough to not bottom out in your riding envelope and to dampen out the shock movements.
- If you Google any web site dealing with properly setting up the front motorcycle suspension, you will find they tell you to address the springs first because you have to have the bike set up so it doesn't bottom out. After that is done, you can address the damping. You really can't properly address the damping if the springs are wrong as the shock will be in a perpetual state of compression to the point the piston will not be traveling through the oil very much to dampen things out.
So:
- If you buy the 2011/2012 shock and adjuster ring (does not include spring; $90.99 + 13.99 each mail ordered) you are ~$ 225 into addressing the problem. But, since you have not addressed the weak springs, you still have to spend a few more $'s to fix the problem. I only used $'s because I'm guessing you would add some additional preload spacers to address the weak springs. If you do not add preload spacers, then I'd have to question the value of spending ~$225 but be left with a suspension that bottoms out all the time. You could add the upper shock relocater to get a little more stiffness from the springs (springs are a little more vertical) but that will cost you another ~$150+. That would be somewhere between $375 to $400 to address just the front suspension.
- However, if you add the preload spacers first (less than $15 to do both front shocks), you will have the front suspension properly set as far as the springs are concerned. Then, you can ride the bike to see if you find the damping acceptable. I think most RT riders will not be too concerned with high and low speed damping characteristics because we don't ride the bike in a manner that that is a critical aspect of the ride. I do think the RT rider doesn't want to bottom out as that is a harsh ride and will be noticeable. So, if you can live with the stock 2010 shock, you will have only spent $15. If you replace the shock first, you will have spent $225 then another $15 (PVC spacers) or $150 (for upper shock relocators). It seems to me, you would take the cheaper route because it might potentially save you a lot. If you bought a pair of used shocks for $50; I'd still maintain you would be $50 ahead if you go for the preload spacers first.
A few second thoughts:
- People have commented on the front shock adjuster ring (cracking) and the rear shock bottom bolt (bending) as weak components in the suspension. I believe these are failures in the suspension because the bike is bottoming out. When the suspension bottoms out, all forces work themselves through the system finding the next weak point(s) in the design. I have setup my front suspension so it is currently using a ~ 0.78" additional preload spacer and using the 3rd indent on the adjuster ring. Riding 2 up, I find I am almost bottoming out. I could dial in the last 2 indents - or add a slightly longer spacer (0.8") and be in good shape. I think if you go with a longer spacer you might not have to rotate the adjuster ring which should help the cast adjuster ring hold up better - this is the size preload spacer I would recommend to the 224 lb OP.
- For this reason, before I spent any money on a used pair of front shocks, I'd mail order a new 2013 rear spring for $59.99 (plus shipping) and set up the rear from bottoming out. I would guess you could easily properly set up the front and rear suspension for less than $100.
So my order of to do's
1. Set up suspension front and rear as identified above: ~$100
2. Laser alignment: ~$130
3. New sway bar: ~$250 (depending on how aggressive you ride, you might find you do not need this once you complete step 1 above. I have a new sway bar and would recommend it)
But, everyone is different so the OP is free to try something or do nothing. It is my hope he will post what he decides to do and tell us how it worked out - that would help the next person.
Jerry
hyea:
