-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
'14 Engine Break In Question
- Thread starter zbunker
- Start date
Bob Denman
New member
:agree: Varying the rpm levels... and just don't wring it's tail too tightly... 
Chupaca
New member
Have to agree..!!
keep from crusing at a constant speed and rpm. Move through the gears ryde the different highways and byways so pretty much ryde it like your going to after you break her in with that one exception. Fastest way to get mileage is to get on the freeway and cruise but the least fun...enjoy your new ryde..!! :thumbup:
keep from crusing at a constant speed and rpm. Move through the gears ryde the different highways and byways so pretty much ryde it like your going to after you break her in with that one exception. Fastest way to get mileage is to get on the freeway and cruise but the least fun...enjoy your new ryde..!! :thumbup:
BikerDoc
New member
Go on the ride with us on Sat the 15th and we will have it broken in by the time we return..
zbunker
Member
Can't make the 15th, Doc, but if everything goes like written in the brochures we should see you @ CFPS Sat. Mar. 1
Ron
ARtraveler
No longer with us - R.I.P. Dwayne
Per page 56 of the owners manual:
Operation during break in:
During the first 3000 miles--
:ani29:: Avoid full throttle acceleration
:ani29:: Avoid prolonged riding
:ani29:: If cooling fan operates continuously...pull over and cool off the engine.
All just basic information. Others have also recommended running the engine at different rpms and gears. This allows for parts to get seated in nicely.
I would avoid "beating the crap out of it" or "ride it like you stole it" until later.
After a couple hundred miles, I then start to pick up the pace a little bit.
Tires and brakes need about 350 miles also.
Enjoy your new ryde. :thumbup:
Operation during break in:
During the first 3000 miles--
:ani29:: Avoid full throttle acceleration
:ani29:: Avoid prolonged riding
:ani29:: If cooling fan operates continuously...pull over and cool off the engine.
All just basic information. Others have also recommended running the engine at different rpms and gears. This allows for parts to get seated in nicely.
I would avoid "beating the crap out of it" or "ride it like you stole it" until later.
After a couple hundred miles, I then start to pick up the pace a little bit.
Tires and brakes need about 350 miles also.
Enjoy your new ryde. :thumbup:
SpyderAnn01
Active member
Avoid prolonged riding? :yikes: Oh no, I don't think I can do that.
ARtraveler
No longer with us - R.I.P. Dwayne
I don't think your :spyder2: would dare require that of you. :roflblack:
spyderyderjim
New member
2014 Spyder RT-S breaking in awesome 1330 motor
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I have used this method on all my many motorcycles over the years. Oil rings seal well, good compression, strong motors.
Rolling off throttle letting de-compression slow you down is what seats the oil rings.
Enjoy your new 1330 motor/smooth shifting trans RT!!!
My 2014 RT-S SE6 is broke in, strong torque pulling throught the smooth shifting gears! Jim
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I have used this method on all my many motorcycles over the years. Oil rings seal well, good compression, strong motors.
Rolling off throttle letting de-compression slow you down is what seats the oil rings.
Enjoy your new 1330 motor/smooth shifting trans RT!!!
My 2014 RT-S SE6 is broke in, strong torque pulling throught the smooth shifting gears! Jim
BajaRon
Well-known member
The way they build engines these days, the materials and machining plus run in at the factory, there isn't nearly as much break-in care needed as in the old days. Especially with water cooled engines.
Main thing is to not let it sit idling to warm up. Very bad for any engine but worse on a new engine with more blow-by. Start it, let it idle about 1 minute at most, and then ride it easy until it gets to operating temperature. That will probably make more difference in longevity and proper seating than most anything else.
Main thing is to not let it sit idling to warm up. Very bad for any engine but worse on a new engine with more blow-by. Start it, let it idle about 1 minute at most, and then ride it easy until it gets to operating temperature. That will probably make more difference in longevity and proper seating than most anything else.
Last edited:
ulflyer
Active member
When is it Enough?
With 400 miles on mine now and having varied the RPM's using the gears, I'm assuming the rings are sufficiently "seated" and I can ease off the varying speeds. I know there are other elements of the motor that need mating also, but believe the rings to be the most critical part of a break in.
Is this basically true or should I keep working the RPM's?
With 400 miles on mine now and having varied the RPM's using the gears, I'm assuming the rings are sufficiently "seated" and I can ease off the varying speeds. I know there are other elements of the motor that need mating also, but believe the rings to be the most critical part of a break in.
Is this basically true or should I keep working the RPM's?
MouthPiece
Banged Up Member
Was that your "purdy" 2014 Cognac spyder I saw at Seminole Power Sports yesterday (Thursday)??? Lookin good Ron.
Chris
Chris
BajaRon
Well-known member
I'd say you're right on this. Start riding it harder. Cylinder pressure is what pushes the wrings against the cylinder walls and will help finish the break-in process. I'd say you can pretty much ride it whatever way you like.
I also think lugging a new engine (even if they are OK with it) is not a good idea. You get back into the excessive blow-by possibility when you lug a new motor. This contaminates your oil and can decrease lubrication and increase wear.
zbunker
Member
Thanks. Quite an interesting article that makes sense.
zbunker
Member
As a matter of fact Chris, yes:shemademe_smilie: :joke: And if you looked carefully around the shop, there was another Cognac Spyder that looked like it had your name on it.
