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1330 OIL REPORT

SYNTHETIC OIL MYTHS

Myth: Once you switch to synthetic oil you can never switch back. This is one of the most persistent myths about synthetic oil—and completely untrue. You can switch back and forth at any time. In fact, synthetic blends are simply a mixture of synthetic and conventional oils. It is advisable that you use the same oil for top-ups if needed, thereby giving you the best protection from the oil that you have chosen.
Myth: You shouldn’t use synthetic oil in an older vehicle. The myth is rooted in the idea that synthetic oil is “slipperier,” lower in viscosity, or not as compatible with seals and will therefore leak or leak more in places conventional oil might not. Again, completely untrue. Synthetic oils will enhance the engine protection in older vehicles just as they do for new engines.
Myth: You should break in your engine with conventional oil before you start using synthetic oil. Again, there’s no manufacturer we’re aware of that makes this recommendation. Mercedes, Porsche, Corvette, some Cadillacs, Volkswagen, Hyundai and many other manufacturers’ cars come from the factory with synthetic oil.
Myth: Using a synthetic oil voids a car’s warranty. Untrue. The only engines that specifically exclude the use of a synthetic motor oil are some Mazda rotary engines.
Myth: Synthetics made from Group III base oils are not true synthetics and are not as good as PAO-based synthetics in Group IV. Again, untrue. Synthetics made from Group III oil can, in some cases, outperform those made in Group IV oils in some areas of performance.
 
Now... You're from Texas; right? :D
If they catch you trying to push the use of synthetics, can't they just shoot you? :shocked: :joke::joke::joke::joke:
 
Early SpyderLover posts suggested Mobil 1 (motorcycle) cause permanent clutch damage on the Spyder. I don't know if that is still the case, but wanted to throw this out there.
 
Early SpyderLover posts suggested Mobil 1 (motorcycle) cause permanent clutch damage on the Spyder. I don't know if that is still the case, but wanted to throw this out there.

Most likely they were using the auto formula. I have never had an issue with the motorcycle formula and clutches.
 
Thanks..!!

glad there are those testing things out. Brp must have run some tests upping the 998 oil change 1,600 miles to every 4,600 miles. But good to know the 1330 spec's are close according to your report...:thumbup:
 
Thinking 9300 miles between oil change is a bit to long I changed it at 6000 miles (9000 on the Spyder) and sent a sample to Blackstone Labs to be tested. Received the report yesterday. Everything came back positive and with a recommendation to wait until 8000 for the next change.
Looks like BRP got this one correct:yes:

I changed over to Mobil 1 10-40 and will wait the 9300 miles and have it tested again:thumbup:

Please post this in the break in thread which started yesterday. We specifically had a question as to whether or not we wait 9300 miles after the break in service or just do the oil change at 9300 miles and go from there. I like to err on the side of conservatism, so suggested I would be doing my next oil change at 9300 instead of 12,300. Now, it looks like I will just go with my annual start up oil change service at the beginning of every riding season, unless I exceed the 9300 mile limits.

Thanks for posting your results.
 
Interesting read.

Looking at my owners manual is states "SL, SJ, SH, SG, or higher" Nothing about "API SM rating, which is expressly prohibited by BRP"

Mobil's web site states "According to ExxonMobil, Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 is of the following quality level:
API SH
API CF"

There appears to be a mix up of requirements for different engines. All owners manuals for all Spyder models and all years for the 998 engine have a warning not to use any engine oil with an API rating of SM. Serious clutch damage will result. The owners manual for the 1330 engine has no such restriction. Since this discussion is for the 1330, SM rating is mute.
 
For those who want to use Mobil1 4T, Advance Auto has it on sale for $8.98. It may be ended by now...not sure.

I've always been concerned that its just MA, not MA2, but obviously a number of riders are using it with no clutch issues.
 
I have been trying, but so far no luck. The number for that is 8.36 and the range is listed at 6.0-9.7

I'm really puzzled; at 8.36 the viscosity has dropped down into the 20W zone, according to: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/viscosity-charts/

To further confuse me, a major lab I've been using, ALS, reports numbers in the 11.6 and below as "caution" and once I got a 10.1 and they flagged it "danger".

The question I've never been able to get answered is how low can the viscosity shear down to and still be viable?

Obviously, the two labs have different views, and BRP says 9300 miles is good. Have to admit, Blackstone's report makes one feel comfortable with whatever oil one is using.

Maybe I'll sent my next test to both labs and see what the results are. :D
 
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To throw my hat into the discussion...
I too am a big beleiver in full synthetic oil and use it in all my vehicles.
I just had my 2014 RT-L in for it's first service and had them use BRP's full synthetic when they did the oil change.
Now I've only put about 200 miles on it since but it seems to me that it doesn't shift as smooth as it did with the blended oil. (a little more clunky)
I'm off on a nice 10 day road trip, dipping into the US for a few days (that's right, the Canadians are coming) so I'll get a better feel for it.
Just wonder if maybe it's to slippery for the tranny??? :dontknow:
Has anyone else gone to full synthetic in the 1330???
 
To throw my hat into the discussion...
I too am a big beleiver in full synthetic oil and use it in all my vehicles.
I just had my 2014 RT-L in for it's first service and had them use BRP's full synthetic when they did the oil change.
Now I've only put about 200 miles on it since but it seems to me that it doesn't shift as smooth as it did with the blended oil. (a little more clunky)
I'm off on a nice 10 day road trip, dipping into the US for a few days (that's right, the Canadians are coming) so I'll get a better feel for it.
Just wonder if maybe it's to slippery for the tranny??? :dontknow:
Has anyone else gone to full synthetic in the 1330???

I used Amsoil for one 4000 mile run but could tell no difference in shifting from the previous fill of Castrol Blend. Now running Rotella T (dino) with 2000 mi on it and can't tell any diff.
On BITOG forum, a lot of bike owners say they can definitely tell a difference with certain oils sometimes its dino only and sometimes synthetic, so I suppose it might make a difference.
On my previous 998 I thought it shifted smoother when I used Castrol Blend (which some say is what BRP Blend is).
 
OIL MY .03 WORTH

:shocked:......This oil has been OK'd by PEOPLE WHO KNOW OIL( here ) .......and is the least expensive FULL SYN that I have found ....Rotella T-6 5w 40 sells at Walmart for approx. $22 per Gallon..................This oil meets or exceeds all BRP warranty requirements ...............Mikeguyver :thumbup:
 
:shocked:......This oil has been OK'd by PEOPLE WHO KNOW OIL( here ) .......and is the least expensive FULL SYN that I have found ....Rotella T-6 5w 40 sells at Walmart for approx. $22 per Gallon..................This oil meets or exceeds all BRP warranty requirements ...............Mikeguyver :thumbup:

Mike is the Rotella "JASO MA or MA2"? Tom :trike:
 
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