Oil analysis @ 3 years & 9500 miles.

[PMK]

For folks with fuel concerns on their oil samples, you might consider that if the Spyder has a remapped ignition, that could be a source.

Greater power output requires more fuel to make the power, even running rich of peak to keep valves, pistons, etc from becoming damaged.

Also, a poorly working or failed fuel tank purge system could introduce raw excess fuel.

Ambient temps also require fuel adjustments to obtain proper trims. In higher heat areas, the greater intake temp will cause a rich condition and significant power loss. Simply another possibility.

Not saying that is the absolute reason why, just areas of concern I would have.

 

[mecsw500]

Ozzie: Thanks for fixing this for me.

As I was not born in the US, I have never adapted to a measurement system used by only 3 countries worldwide: the US, Myanmar (Burma) and Liberia.

Despite having been here 34 years, I have to do a mental conversion every time somebody quotes weight, measures or temperatures to me even now. Notice I have adapted to litres and metres being spelt incorrectly at least.

My wife is often embarrassed when we go to the store and people just stare at me when I ask for things in metric quantities. She says I sound like I'm JOB, "Just Off the Boat".

We are a nation of immigrants and some of us more recent arrivals are as frustrated as you are trying to remember there is 1760 yards in a mile, let alone 3 feet in a yard or 12 inches in something or other. I still can't tell you how many cups are in a pint and don't even get me started on the temperature scale.

But, it is how it is when it comes to distances, as all the roads are marked in miles (well except for a few routes heading north from Mexico in which speeds and distances are actually metric).

So for many Americans 9300 miles would seem to be such a random choice of distance but to me, my mental math just says that sounds like about 15,000 klicks which would make sense to Canadians.

If everything changed to metric in the US overnight, distances would still be in miles just like in the UK, despite the UK being metric for everything else, as the cost of replacing all the road signs would be prohibitive.

I don't think motor vehicles are actually built with Imperial measurements any more, even in the US. I think the only exception is wheel diameters and even then the tire widths and stud spacings are metric. Go figure.

At least we teach the metric system in schools so most youngsters understand both systems.

I guess I'm just too old to adapt.

 

[bikerbillone]

Good one, too old to adapt, as are many of 'seniors'.

 

[BamaJohn]

opcorn:

Being late to this thread, and not wanting to disappoint "Mikey", I just received the oil analysis from Blackstone for my 2020 Spyder RT....and it is a shocker! I've been using Castrol Power 1 4T synthetic for Motorcycles on my motorcycles for the past 15 years, thinking it was "top tier".
So, I wanted to do a test by going the full 9,000 miles after the last oil change to see how the Castrol held up - it didn't! :shocked:

Ron can expect an order for Amsoil after this.

 

[bikerbillone]

John, thanks for sharing. Most interesting.

 

[PMK]

Being late to this thread, and not wanting to disappoint "Mikey", I just received the oil analysis from Blackstone for my 2020 Spyder RT....and it is a shocker! I've been using Castrol Power 1 4T synthetic for Motorcycles on my motorcycles for the past 15 years, thinking it was "top tier".
So, I wanted to do a test by going the full 9,000 miles after the last oil change to see how the Castrol held up - it didn't! :shocked:

Ron can expect an order for Amsoil after this.

Engine will be fine, the gearbox will not enjoy such a reduction in viscosity from use. Curious if your magnet had greater than normal steel particles on it.

 

[BamaJohn]

Engine will be fine, the gearbox will not enjoy such a reduction in viscosity from use. Curious if your magnet had greater than normal steel particles on it.

Thanks PMK - Magnets looked fine (Dimple plugs on both drain ports).
I did have some pretty aggressive riding in April in NC, WV, VA, TN, KY, GA over a week's time, but I'm hoping that some kind of anomaly is in play. At any rate, I'll be changing out the current Castrol at 5,000 miles and moving on to Amsoil or Mobile 1 4T. I had previously been changing oil at 5,000-6,000 miles, so only went to 9,000 for this test. The Spyder has 28,000 miles on it.

 

[troop]

That's why I won't use a 5w40 grade oil in my Spyder. Shell Rotella T6 5w40 is also well known to shear quickly in shared sump applications. I'll continue to stick with 10w40/50 formulas. That said, I likely won't get more than 6K miles on the oil between changes in my Wisconsin riding environment.

 

[bikerbillone]

I tend to agree with you Troop. I've been using Rotella T6 5w40, and that's because they don't sell 10w40 T6; I think the 5w40 will shear too easily in the Florida heat. So, my next change, soon, will be to Mobil1 10w40. That only comes in high mileage, but it should work in my 2020 RTL.

 

[PMK]

I tend to agree with you Troop. I've been using Rotella T6 5w40, and that's because they don't sell 10w40 T6; I think the 5w40 will shear too easily in the Florida heat. So, my next change, soon, will be to Mobil1 10w40. That only comes in high mileage, but it should work in my 2020 RTL.

Are you planning on using Mobil1 automotive oil?
As you likely have read, our 2014 RTS has had Mobil1 motorcycle oil since broken in on BRP oil.

5000 miles per oil change on Mobil1 motorcycle oil; and replace the filter each time also. More a calendar thing than miles ridden per year thing.

Just be cautious if using Mobil1 automotive oil. Not sure where it rates on 540Rats blog, or if Mobil1 automotive is wet clutch compatible.

 

[bikerbillone]

Yes, gonna give it shot, been doing a lot of Google read, and I'm aware of the additional additive for MC's. If I feel any change, any change at all, I'll be doing a quick oil change and return to my Rotella T6 5w40.

 

[PMK]

Yes, gonna give it shot, been doing a lot of Google read, and I'm aware of the additional additive for MC's. If I feel any change, any change at all, I'll be doing a quick oil change and return to my Rotella T6 5w40.

I understand the saving money part, but my brain says oil is inexpensive compared to damaging a gearbox or clutch.
Truthfully though, I suspect the gearbox and clutch will live.
My worry would be the alternator coupling slipping. I recall topics/posts from a while back where folks used auto oil; and they noticed the whine of the alternator coupling when turning.

Absolutely your call and curious how it works out.

 

[bikerbillone]

I hear you, and I may change my ever lovin' mind and buy some Amsoil from Ron, if he has it. Amsoil will give me peace of mind, but man, getting around that price... I know what you're thinking, you have a point, you really do!

Alternator coupling, now there's something I had not considered...

 

[JKMSPYDER]

Just a hint. I pay $20 per year for an Amsoil membership and get a good discount on all their oil. I use Amsoil in my pickup, my wife’s car, and my Spyder. I get the oil filters for the truck and car from Amsoil too.

 

[troop]

Just head to your local Walmart and pick up (5) quarts of the M1 4T 10w40 motorcycle oil or free delivery. The peace of mind alone is worth it. That said, the M1 10w40 high mileage full syn DOES MEET BRP criteria for API SM and SN rating. And no Energy Conserving star label.
API service classification SJ, SL, SM, or SN. Always check the API service label certification on the oil container, it must contain at least one of the indicated standards.