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Can you stall an SE6?

RPM

Member
I guess so, because I did today and I was wondering why? I was going down a great local twisty road when the car in front of me put on the brake quick to pull off the road for no good reason. I was probably in 4th gear and put on the brakes hard as well (by the way, they work great). My F3 SE6 stalled and came to a slow roll stop and I was a little confused as to why I wasn't moving. I realized the engine stalled and pulled to the side and it started right up and off I went. Did it not downshift quick enough and then stall? Has this happened to anyone else?

Thanks for any helpful comments.

Robert
 
Has never happened to me. How many miles on your F3?. If under 500 your Spyder could be still in it's learning mode where stalls seem to happen.
 
I believe that if you brake very hard and decelerate fast the auto box can't down-shift fast enough
and a stalled motor is inevitable. Better to stall than not to be able to stop fast! This will happen more readily
on a new tight motor than one with a few thousand miles on it. IMHO
 
I believe that if you brake very hard and decelerate fast the auto box can't down-shift fast enough
and a stalled motor is inevitable. Better to stall than not to be able to stop fast! This will happen more readily
on a new tight motor than one with a few thousand miles on it. IMHO

+1! Has not happened to me but makes perfect sense.
 
Here's the thing..!!

Think of a manual..(for those of you that have used one or were born before automatic..:roflblack::roflblack:) if you slam on the brakes without engaging the clutch you stall out. I would imagine on the new semi auto, which are much better, it will depend on how hard and fast you have to stop...:thumbup: one of the reasons I love the manual. In many cases you still need to get out of the way in a hurry. Guess my ryding style tends to get me in more of these sticky situations..:roflblack:
 
Has never happened to me. How many miles on your F3?. If under 500 your Spyder could be still in it's learning mode where stalls seem to happen.

I'm at 220 miles and trying to put on more but it has been so busy at work.

I believe that if you brake very hard and decelerate fast the auto box can't down-shift fast enough
and a stalled motor is inevitable. Better to stall than not to be able to stop fast! This will happen more readily
on a new tight motor than one with a few thousand miles on it. IMHO

Thanks, OJ, that makes sense and that's what I figured. It just caught me off guard as I wasn't expecting it. A tight motor is likely the cause. I'll try to make it "untight" this afternoon and the next two days as I am off of work!

Thanks for the help and comments.
 
Did you notice an E in the shift indicator? I have never had mine stall but if I slam on the brakes on my RT SM6 and don't downshift I will get the E. I don't thin the E means error but instead it means Easy, like take it easy fool!
 
Our 1330 in the RTs has never stalled under hard braking.

Being an automatic system, it should not stall as the clutch should disengage before the engine dies. Now maybe if you instantly locked the rear wheel that may not be recoverable for the engine, but still I would expect a good engine management setup would keep up and return to idle.

In simplest terms, you are riding a pull rope mini bike. If you owned one as a kid, do you recall it stalling as came to a skidding stop. I don't. And that is about as simple as life gets with a carb and tire scrub brake.

FWIW, try and replicate it without the bakes, cruise along and quickly closed the throttle, see if the electronics is capable of keeping up.

Have fun and be careful.

PK
 
A few weeks ago I had to bring my RT semi-automatic to an emergency stop. It stopped fine, but only downshifted to third (I think) and displayed 'E'rror on the dash gear display. When I tried to take off the engine sputtered, then downshifted rapidly through second to first and all was well.

So, I think a quick stop could put the bike in a mode to sputter or even stop.
 
i cant think thats right, id certainly have the dealer look at it, the warranty on these things arent forever so at least get it on record. No clutch is the reason i turned down an 09 with less miles than my 08 for almost the same price because i wanted the manual. I test rode an auto F3 and while i did not mind the shifting for me it was not being able to throw in the clutch coming to a stop etc. that bothered me. Plus being able to just pull in the clutch and move it around the garage or parking etc. I assume with the auto once the key is off your not moving it.
 
i cant think thats right, id certainly have the dealer look at it, the warranty on these things arent forever so at least get it on record. No clutch is the reason i turned down an 09 with less miles than my 08 for almost the same price because i wanted the manual. I test rode an auto F3 and while i did not mind the shifting for me it was not being able to throw in the clutch coming to a stop etc. that bothered me. Plus being able to just pull in the clutch and move it around the garage or parking etc. I assume with the auto once the key is off your not moving it.

Not related, but the auto gearbox will move with slight drag with the engine off. No big deal. In neutral it rolls free.

PK
 
i cant think thats right, id certainly have the dealer look at it, the warranty on these things arent forever so at least get it on record. No clutch is the reason i turned down an 09 with less miles than my 08 for almost the same price because i wanted the manual. I test rode an auto F3 and while i did not mind the shifting for me it was not being able to throw in the clutch coming to a stop etc. that bothered me. Plus being able to just pull in the clutch and move it around the garage or parking etc. I assume with the auto once the key is off your not moving it.

I have to reverse into my garage spot, and then I put it into neutral -- to roll it forward out of its spot, all we have to do is turn the key to ACC to take the parking brake off, then we can push it around wherever we want.
 
I have to reverse into my garage spot, and then I put it into neutral -- to roll it forward out of its spot, all we have to do is turn the key to ACC to take the parking brake off, then we can push it around wherever we want.

Good to know you can do it, if you remember to put it in neutral first. Does anyone know can you bump start a spyder, even a manual one? My brothers has to be in neutral to start it and you have to hit that stupid mode button to get it to start but if you have no power and need to bump start it you would not be able to hit the mode button. mine doesnt have to be in neutral but i do have to hit the mode button.
 
This has happened to me on my RS/SE, I believe I'm not the only one here at SL. Seems to happen fairly early in the bike's life, i.e. the examples I know of were all low-mileage bikes, seemed to stop after that.

Certainly true in my case-- had the Spyder stall out under heavy braking to a stop a couple of times <5000 miles, hasn't happened in the 15K miles since. Flipped the kill switch, restarted the bike, rode away with no worries, no limp mode, no codes.

I'd tell your dealer about it just in case there's a more serious problem, but I'm with the folks above-- just a very rare idiosyncrasy of the SE.
 
Thanks for all the responses. I rode it harder yesterday with some harder braking (still in break-in period) and no problems. Likely an isolated event.

This thing is more thrilling than any other bike I've had!

Thanks
 
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