Changing spark plugs

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

FRUNK REMOVAL

Ann I just read your latest post and you arn't going to do your plugs for awhile so this won't affect you NOW.........However for those that are contemplating this ...I just removed mine !!!!!,,,,I watched Three video's above doing this ( got a headache from all the motion ) ( and the Aussie one I could barely hear )........and maybe this will HELP.....The only TOOL you need is a 10 mm socket....if you have a wobbly and an extension and a drill adapter it will go faster........this was never completely explained BUT underneath the Spyder they show you two bolts and two nuts on the cross piece.....you only undo the 10 mm bolts ...leave the 12mm nuts alone .............on the top after you remove the plastic triangular pieces you will see 6 bolts , they all 10 mm ....the two in the middle leave them alone ......just undo the outside one's (4)................I have a BASIC RT so the only two plugs were on the left as I faced the Spyder ,if you have FOG lights etc there are more plugs to detach......In none of the Video's was the AIR SCOOP mentioned ( it's under the left front fender ) ( right side as you face it )...............well they should have because that was a B*tch to undo, have one or two small screw drivers handy , you will need to loosen the clamp and pry off the rubber ELBOE.....at least that's what I did........I may not put it back on..............Have fun ....Mike :thumbup:

 

[Roadster Renovations]

I do, I picked it up on 02/21/14. I've been slacking since October though.

That is rolling some rubber! Wow!

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Ann I just read your latest post and you arn't going to do your plugs for awhile so this won't affect you NOW.........However for those that are contemplating this ...I just removed mine !!!!!,,,,I watched Three video's above doing this ( got a headache from all the motion ) ( and the Aussie one I could barely hear )........and maybe this will HELP.....The only TOOL you need is a 10 mm socket....if you have a wobbly and an extension and a drill adapter it will go faster........this was never completely explained BUT underneath the Spyder they show you two bolts and two nuts on the cross piece.....you only undo the 10 mm bolts ...leave the 12mm nuts alone .............on the top after you remove the plastic triangular pieces you will see 6 bolts , they all 10 mm ....the two in the middle leave them alone ......just undo the outside one's (4)................I have a BASIC RT so the only two plugs were on the left as I faced the Spyder ,if you have FOG lights etc there are more plugs to detach......In none of the Video's was the AIR SCOOP mentioned ( it's under the left front fender ) ( right side as you face it )...............well they should have because that was a B*tch to undo, have one or two small screw drivers handy , you will need to loosen the clamp and pry off the rubber ELBOE.....at least that's what I did........I may not put it back on..............Have fun ....Mike :thumbup:

You did this for the heck of it? You may be a little crazy. :roflblack: We will give it a go but maybe next month. Did you have to take off the fairing (glove box, dash) or just the front trunk and the left and right acoustic panels?

 

[Highwayman2013]

I would like to observe this operation, could be fun.

 

[Gray Ghost]

This year the spark plug section looks like an afterthought.

I had to check the page numbers three times. I was convinced that some pages didn't get scanned. Lots of luck when y'all attempt it.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

H*LL NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

You did this for the heck of it? You may be a little crazy. :roflblack: We will give it a go but maybe next month. Did you have to take off the fairing (glove box, dash) or just the front trunk and the left and right acoustic panels?

...........Ann I may be a liitle strange but I'm not crazy:gaah::roflblack:....To answer your questions , No on the glove box , or dash etc......( you have watched the Video's ---right )....Removing the trim under the headlites just makes access to the upper 10mm bolts easier, but not necessary, my side panels etc. are off anyway because of LED wiring etc......Annnnnd I was planning on removing the "FRUNK" to give me access to the tops of the front shocks ( secret project :shocked: :roflblack....So your issue just moved my timeline up a bit.....I forgot to mention earlier that the video m109Dreamer posted for you using the 2013 RT is not accurate ......the 14 Headlite adjusters have been moved out of the way so they don't have to be touched ..........and the ACOUSTIC PANELS you mentioned the LOWER one that pops off has to come off the UPPER I think just the front bolts if you plan to take the trim PANEL below the headlites off...........Hope this clarifies things ...........The Aussie video is probably the best but the sound was bad on mine ??????.........................Mike :thumbup:

 

[SpyderAnn01]

thanks Mike, we've had most all of the side panels, headlight panel off on mine, we just haven't pulled the trunk or dash. Did it on a 2012 last week but not on the 14.

 

[Questions]

That's what I figured. Nothing is easy on the Spyder



On the 2014 the air filter is round (think oil filter shaped) and is relatively easy to change. I don't see where you would gain much more access on the 1330 by doing that.

I think we will wait a while. I'm at 34,600 miles and like someone else pointed out the manual says change at 28,000. I'm not having any issues but was just trying to follow the guidelines for a change!

I would not recommend going much past the 28000. At that point the iridium tip of the plugs are sure to be eroded and increasing the gap of the plug. This can cause your coils to over work and lead to ignition coil failure, which would make the repair even more expensive. I know the plugs are a pain to change, but it is "preventative maintenance." In this case it is preventing you from having premature coil failure.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

IRIDIUM PLUGS

I would not recommend going much past the 28000. At that point the iridium tip of the plugs are sure to be eroded and increasing the gap of the plug. This can cause your coils to over work and lead to ignition coil failure, which would make the repair even more expensive. I know the plugs are a pain to change, but it is "preventative maintenance." In this case it is preventing you from having premature coil failure.

:hun:.....Sir: To the best of my knowledge " IRIDIUM PLUGS " are the longest lasting spark plugs made .........Do you have a factual basis for Stateing the Plugs are sure to be ERODED.......or are you just GUESSING ? ? ?.....................Thank you ,....Mike :thumbup:

 

[Questions]

:hun:.....Sir: To the best of my knowledge " IRIDIUM PLUGS " are the longest lasting spark plugs made .........Do you have a factual basis for Stateing the Plugs are sure to be ERODED.......or are you just GUESSING ? ? ?.....................Thank you ,....Mike :thumbup:

Since you are an NGK engineer and know all there is to know about how long iridium plugs last, I'm sure you thought about the grounding electrode that is NOT iridium... This part of the plug will in fact be burned away by a high energy spark. Yes the iridium plugs do last longer than the standard plug, but NO they do not last forever!!! If you want to let you ignition coils be destroyed by shear stubbornness, go ahead, be my guest, it's your money! Just keep driving the thing until it quits running, and then throw some plugs at it. That's sure to fix it!

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

WELL YOU ASKED FOR IT

Since you are an NGK engineer and know all there is to know about how long iridium plugs last, I'm sure you thought about the grounding electrode that is NOT iridium... This part of the plug will in fact be burned away by a high energy spark. Yes the iridium plugs do last longer than the standard plug, but NO they do not last forever!!! If you want to let you ignition coils be destroyed by shear stubbornness, go ahead, be my guest, it's your money! Just keep driving the thing until it quits running, and then throw some plugs at it. That's sure to fix it!

:dontknow:...Sir: I'm not an NGK engineer , I don't recall saying I was . But I will say this , YOU appear to have an ATTITUDE PROBLEM :shocked:...............Mike :thumbup:

 

[Cruzr Joe]

FOOD FIGHT .............................................opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:




Anonymous

 

[ulflyer]

This is almost as good as some of our oil "discussions".....:clap:

 

[DrewNJ]

IMHO- The issue isn't if the plugs will go 100k, it's can you get those 100K mile pugs out of the motor in one piece without destroying them or the motor when you do remove them.

I'm old school. I do plugs in my cars at 30k and in my bikes at 10k at most. The winter is a good time to spend a bit of quality time with your machine.