Highpockets
New member
I am having problems with my plugs fouling. I have a 2011 RTS. I use only premium gasoline. how can I solve this problem. Highpockets.
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
spark plugs.
- Thread starter Highpockets
- Start date
BajaRon
Well-known member
Depends on WHY your plugs are fouling.
Are you fouling both plugs or just one?
Are they oil fouled (possibly ingesting oil from the crank case breather or elsewhere). Or are they fuel fouling (possible injector, O2 sensor or computer issue).
Could also be bad spark plug wires. If the plug is misfiring enough you can get fuel fouling that way.
Are you using the hotter heat range spark plugs recommended for the RT? Are you putting thermal paste on the threads of the spark plug? Are you lugging your Spyder?
All can contribute to fouling.
Are you fouling both plugs or just one?
Are they oil fouled (possibly ingesting oil from the crank case breather or elsewhere). Or are they fuel fouling (possible injector, O2 sensor or computer issue).
Could also be bad spark plug wires. If the plug is misfiring enough you can get fuel fouling that way.
Are you using the hotter heat range spark plugs recommended for the RT? Are you putting thermal paste on the threads of the spark plug? Are you lugging your Spyder?
All can contribute to fouling.
Last edited:
Bob Denman
New member
:welcome: Ron can fix you up with a set of his plugwires! :2thumbs: nojoke
Chupaca
New member
Need to know..!!
a little more. To be able to better help, like Ron said, what kind of fouling are we talking about..? That will help to find the problem. Any mods to the air or exhaust systems, any fuel management system, mileage, service like air filter, oil level etc. I see no mention of "the dealer said" can we say you are doing your own work.? Usually the computer will through codes on incorrect fuel/air mixtures..let us know..!! :thumbup:
a little more. To be able to better help, like Ron said, what kind of fouling are we talking about..? That will help to find the problem. Any mods to the air or exhaust systems, any fuel management system, mileage, service like air filter, oil level etc. I see no mention of "the dealer said" can we say you are doing your own work.? Usually the computer will through codes on incorrect fuel/air mixtures..let us know..!! :thumbup:
spyderyderjim
New member
Put in BajaRon sparkplug wires, #8 NGK Iridium sparkplugs (hotter running sparkplugs)
The 2011 RT's came from factory with #9 NGK sparkplugs that would foul (black carbon in sparkplugs),( FI ran a rich fuel ratio).
BRP put out a service notice for RT's to change to #8 NGK Iridium sparkplugs (hotter running sparkplugs).
BajaRON has both the wires & #8 Iridium sparkplugs available for you!
2011 Spyder RT's came with rich FI settings that fouled sparkplugs;
(Most 2013 Spyder RT owners would love to have the 2011 richer fuel ratio settings to solve excess heating problems).
I had 22,000 miles on my 2011 Spyder RT SE5, trouble free.
I have 5,500 miles on 2013 Spyder RT-S SE5, trouble free, (with heat mods installed)!!
How many miles on your 2011 RT-S?
Enjoy! Jim
The 2011 RT's came from factory with #9 NGK sparkplugs that would foul (black carbon in sparkplugs),( FI ran a rich fuel ratio).
BRP put out a service notice for RT's to change to #8 NGK Iridium sparkplugs (hotter running sparkplugs).
BajaRON has both the wires & #8 Iridium sparkplugs available for you!
2011 Spyder RT's came with rich FI settings that fouled sparkplugs;
(Most 2013 Spyder RT owners would love to have the 2011 richer fuel ratio settings to solve excess heating problems).
I had 22,000 miles on my 2011 Spyder RT SE5, trouble free.
I have 5,500 miles on 2013 Spyder RT-S SE5, trouble free, (with heat mods installed)!!
How many miles on your 2011 RT-S?
Enjoy! Jim
Spyder4Tess
New member
These vehicle are not from the old carb days,too many electronics!
Best to take it in to a professional shop.
Best to take it in to a professional shop.
BajaRon
Well-known member
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Or put a carb on it... That would certainly solve your problem!
An Amal won't solve any problems except what to do with your spare time (work on the carbs) and what to do with your "excess" fuel (let it leak out). Those GP carbs will add tapping the float bowls to keep them from flooding to the list of chores. Might as well run Stromberg 97's. :roflblack:
Now a good pair of Mikunis.....that would be another thing.
BajaRon
Well-known member
I love the push button on top of the float bowl which pushes the float down and floods the system. That was Amal's version of the 'Choke'. You really had to know your bike in those days... Or be willing to push it a lot!
Then you had the little matter of kick starting it. It was a good idea to keep your health insurance current with one of these. And that was just to cover the injuries incurred during the starting sequence! :yikes:
Then you had the little matter of kick starting it. It was a good idea to keep your health insurance current with one of these. And that was just to cover the injuries incurred during the starting sequence! :yikes:
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
I still have ticklers on my '65 Bonneville. It's more fun with two of them. Tickler on my '61 Harley Sprint (Aermacchi) too. You are right, it does take a little bit of technique. My Triumph will start on the third kick every time if I do it right (which is most of the time), even after a long layoff. The old long-stroke singles like the Goldstar were the worst. They take some real technique. Add having a manual spark advance on any of these, and you had better know how to hold your mouth right! Never got hurt starting anything but my 305 Honda Scrambler, though...although my '47 Indian Chief kicked me the length of my dad's car once.
BajaRon
Well-known member
I still have ticklers on my '65 Bonneville. It's more fun with two of them. Tickler on my '61 Harley Sprint (Aermacchi) too. You are right, it does take a little bit of technique. My Triumph will start on the third kick every time if I do it right (which is most of the time), even after a long layoff. The old long-stroke singles like the Goldstar were the worst. They take some real technique. Add having a manual spark advance on any of these, and you had better know how to hold your mouth right! Never got hurt starting anything but my 305 Honda Scrambler, though...although my '47 Indian Chief kicked me the length of my dad's car once.
BSA 441 Victor. Everyone was scared to death to start that. I never had a problem. Loved the 'Canned Ham' seat and the right hand shifter/left hand brake. At least the kick start was on the right side.
Have we sufficiently hijacked this thread yet?
Flanker
New member
Aaaahhhh!!! Amal carbs, Lucas electrics (using the term electrics rather loosely), spindly fork tubes & swing arms, or even worse..................hard tail frames, and gas tank fuel pet cocks (please no off color jokes!). All, more than justly sentenced to the technology grave yard. Good riddance! Not sure if all the electronic marvelry on the Spyder is better though......................it's like they can't find a happy medium.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Guilty As Charged!
Yes, your honor. I plead guilty of hijacking this thread. I throw myself on the mercy of the court.....er, forum.
Back to the OP. Fouled plugs can have a variety of reasons, including bad plug wires, the wrong heat range plugs, a bad coil, or a faulty ECM. Failing oxygen sensors can also do it, or worn/faulty fuel injectors, but those problems are pretty rare (like the ECM) and the sensors usually show on the diagnostics with a fault code. A combination of these things, none of which is real bad, can do it, and can be maddening to find. Low rpm can aggravate the condition. The biggest problem is that every time you change the plugs you further degrade the OEM plug wires. After even one removal they can be damaged, and with several they are most certainly junk. I'd highly recommend a pair of BajaRon's plug wires before proceeding further. Be sure they are properly installed, with spark plug boot release (dielectric grease) and that the plugs are installed with the proper heat sink compound. Ron can supply the kits with plugs, wires, and tubes of the other necessary products. If the problem continues after replacement, suspect the coil first. No diagnostics work well for that, trial replacement is the usual approach. Same goes for the ECM, but for a 2011 I would doubt this the problem. The dealer could reflash it to be sure, but replacement isn't usually warranted unless there are other performance issues, too. The remaining causes usually require skills, experience, and testing procedures beyond the level of the average tech, but a good one can help get through them with the help of BRP dealer tech support.
Yes, your honor. I plead guilty of hijacking this thread. I throw myself on the mercy of the court.....er, forum.
Back to the OP. Fouled plugs can have a variety of reasons, including bad plug wires, the wrong heat range plugs, a bad coil, or a faulty ECM. Failing oxygen sensors can also do it, or worn/faulty fuel injectors, but those problems are pretty rare (like the ECM) and the sensors usually show on the diagnostics with a fault code. A combination of these things, none of which is real bad, can do it, and can be maddening to find. Low rpm can aggravate the condition. The biggest problem is that every time you change the plugs you further degrade the OEM plug wires. After even one removal they can be damaged, and with several they are most certainly junk. I'd highly recommend a pair of BajaRon's plug wires before proceeding further. Be sure they are properly installed, with spark plug boot release (dielectric grease) and that the plugs are installed with the proper heat sink compound. Ron can supply the kits with plugs, wires, and tubes of the other necessary products. If the problem continues after replacement, suspect the coil first. No diagnostics work well for that, trial replacement is the usual approach. Same goes for the ECM, but for a 2011 I would doubt this the problem. The dealer could reflash it to be sure, but replacement isn't usually warranted unless there are other performance issues, too. The remaining causes usually require skills, experience, and testing procedures beyond the level of the average tech, but a good one can help get through them with the help of BRP dealer tech support.
Bob Denman
New member
BajaRon
Well-known member
Ah Yes! I had one of these too! 1971 Root Beer (I think they called it) Great machine. Put 55K on it. Transmission failed (actually the shift tumbler) just north of the San Francisco bridge on a Sunday morning headed back to San Diego. Fixed it with the OEM tool kit on the side of the road. Loved that bike! That is the only problem I ever had with it.
Some Guy
New member
:agree: Mine were junk after the FIRST plug change. One of the boots was arcing on the case, causing the Spyder to run like :cus:
I put the BajaRon wires on and all is good. They are really beefy! :thumbup: I also changed the spark plugs while I had everything apart. They really didn't need to be changed, but since I had already taken out the airbox, I figured I might as well change the plugs. I hate taking out that airbox! :gaah:
Similar threads
