Ongoing ST heat Mods

[JacqueTanis]

Heat

I think someone removed the cat, wonder if it made a difference in heat?

A lot of people have removed the CAT. Unfortunately I have a new bike and BRP said it would void my warranty - too bad because that's where the heat is probably coming from - that's the word on the street anyway!

 

[OldDog]

Would it seem logical to relocate the cat converter back to the muffler and outside the body panels? I think this question has been previously raised. :dontknow:

 

[SexxyAdina]

Heat on the Right side near breaks pedal

Hi I am a brand new owner of a ST Limited I almost have 1000 miles on it and have own it for about a month. I am having the heat blow on my right leg to the point where I got scorched so badly that I had to put burn medicine on it. I went to live chat and spoke to awins so I am going to try to contact spyderpops to see if they have something to help me. The pain I am going through with my ankle is nothing I would wish on anyone. So in the mean time I order half chaps to wrap around my lower part of my legs and I also went to Advance auto and purchase a heat barrier that was 7 x24 to wrap my ankle inside my boot to see if that helps. I love my spyder but I think this is something that BRP should have created something to protect the consumer from. These arent cheap bikes and to have to find and buy additional stuff to ride in comfort isnt a way to be in good standings with Spyder Lovers

 

[JacqueTanis]

NEW IDEA - I THINK ....

My husband works at the High Speed Test Track at Holloman AFB. They use CORK to shield from the heat of the Rocket motors.SO 1/4" thick. I've ordered some and am going to install it on my panels and as a temporary shield for the Cat Converter while I wait for Spyderpops to come up with the Shield for the ST. Also following another lead and putting ceramic heat shield on the gas tank and we're trying to figure out how to add a couple fans to draw the hot air out of the panels. Wrapped the exhaust pipe and siliconed it!

So, has ANYONE tried CORK? :spyder: I figure if it can shield from the heat of rocket motors (and was also used for the heat shield tiles on the shuttle) it should be able to shield my leg from that heat on the left side!

ADDITION: John also talked about finding out a start point for the regular running temperature of the Spyder. Does anyone know what it is? He suggested we get a thermostat to set the running temp lower. We need a baseline ???

 

[Bob Denman]

This is a very interesting idea...
Please let us know how this works! :thumbup:

 

[hchays]

"Looks like extensive shielding or hoping for a new cat/exhaust design at this point. But why do some units report this heat as a problem and others do not.....variances in the CAT itself?"

I think that it depends on a persons riding style (leg position, traffic, speed and outdoor temp). I would bet that the Cat itself is not the issue. It seems to be more of the position of the pipe and Cat location. On a side note I have taken a couple more rides and feel that the heat barrier that I added to the side panels are a HUGE improvement on the heat issue. I do not have the "burning feeling" that I had before the barrier was added. I do feel a little heat when the fan turns on, but nothing that is not normal. As far as my heat issue I feel it is solved with the new heat barrier. :clap:

 

[Sny]

A lot of people have removed the CAT. Unfortunately I have a new bike and BRP said it would void my warranty - too bad because that's where the heat is probably coming from - that's the word on the street anyway!

Did BRP say this or the dealer? There are laws to the contrary. They can not void your warranty for a modification you have done. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson–Moss_Warranty_Act

However they might use it against you down the line if you have other issues that could be caused by tampering with the exhaust.

I wouldn't recommend removing the cat unless you are very well informed of all the other things this changes and have the technical know-how (or access to someone who does) to compensate for these changes. Removing the cat will make a bike that runs lean even more likely to run lean, or run dangerously lean. You'll go from an uncomfortable ride and melting things to burnt pistons.

 

[poordom]

My husband works at the High Speed Test Track at Holloman AFB. They use CORK to shield from the heat of the Rocket motors.SO 1/4" thick. I've ordered some and am going to install it on my panels and as a temporary shield for the Cat Converter while I wait for Spyderpops to come up with the Shield for the ST. Also following another lead and putting ceramic heat shield on the gas tank and we're trying to figure out how to add a couple fans to draw the hot air out of the panels. Wrapped the exhaust pipe and siliconed it!

So, has ANYONE tried CORK? :spyder: I figure if it can shield from the heat of rocket motors (and was also used for the heat shield tiles on the shuttle) it should be able to shield my leg from that heat on the left side!

ADDITION: John also talked about finding out a start point for the regular running temperature of the Spyder. Does anyone know what it is? He suggested we get a thermostat to set the running temp lower. We need a baseline ???

I like the shield that is sold on Amazon.com it looks pretty good.

I have never heard off using cork as a heat dissipating product, sure would be a worthwhile to try.

About the THERMOSTAT, I have mentioned using a lower temperature thermostat in about 2 or 3 of my messages, but no one responded, here is my question again.

ARE THERE DIFFERENT TEMPERATURE RANGE OF THERMOSTATS AVAILABLE FOR THE ROTAX MOTOR ? :banghead::banghead::banghead:

Dom

 

[Sny]

ADDITION: John also talked about finding out a start point for the regular running temperature of the Spyder. Does anyone know what it is? He suggested we get a thermostat to set the running temp lower. We need a baseline ???

I don't know that anyone has seen the engine temps go up in any extreme way... Reducing the engine coolant temps via a different thermostat will just make the engine run less efficiently.

The complaints center around the left side plastic getting hot. The whole time you are noticing high heat from the side panel you can look at the dash and it'll show a nicely temperature controlled engine in the 4-6 bar range. I believe Lamont has a post about what each bar means in degrees F, something like 225F is 5 bars?

The under plastic air temps are not extreme, so I don't believe it's convection. And it's not touching anything so it's not conduction, so it must be direct radiation off the pipes. A stand off heat shield should deflect it away from whatever you want it to not reach. Adhesive shielding or anything that doesn't create a circulating air barrier between the shielding and the thing being shielded will cause the radiant heat to heat the shielding and then conduct it to whatever you're trying to protect. The foam or ceramic or lava rock or cork backing on the adhesive heat barrier will act as an insulator so it will reduce the heat transferred through. Won't stop it completely but it still might help.

 

[azjerry]

Cork would be a good insulator but I think it would be more difficult to mold to the inside shape of the panels.

 

[JacqueTanis]

Cork would be a good insulator but I think it would be more difficult to mold to the inside shape of the panels.

It's only 1/4" thick and bends easily. I only need to do it in three pieces so after I make my pattern it will be easy!

 

[JacqueTanis]

I don't know that anyone has seen the engine temps go up in any extreme way... Reducing the engine coolant temps via a different thermostat will just make the engine run less efficiently.

The complaints center around the left side plastic getting hot. The whole time you are noticing high heat from the side panel you can look at the dash and it'll show a nicely temperature controlled engine in the 4-6 bar range. I believe Lamont has a post about what each bar means in degrees F, something like 225F is 5 bars?

The under plastic air temps are not extreme, so I don't believe it's convection. And it's not touching anything so it's not conduction, so it must be direct radiation off the pipes. A stand off heat shield should deflect it away from whatever you want it to not reach. Adhesive shielding or anything that doesn't create a circulating air barrier between the shielding and the thing being shielded will cause the radiant heat to heat the shielding and then conduct it to whatever you're trying to protect. The foam or ceramic or lava rock or cork backing on the adhesive heat barrier will act as an insulator so it will reduce the heat transferred through. Won't stop it completely but it still might help.

I think you're right! :thumbup: Thank you ...

 

[hchays]

I just finished a 3 day ride, 840 miles and had no heat issues. The heat barrier that I put on my panels is good to go if anyone wants to solve the heat issue. I also added some barrier to the top panel over the backbone (where the gas tank would normally be). I was as comfortable (temp wise) as I could ever expect.

 

[flamingobabe]

we can insulate all we want and it does help push BTU's out the exhaust and insulate....but where is the heat coming from and how is BRP going to fix it...have y'all checked your spark plugs to see if they are white, too lean as mine were....or a mocha color that's what the spark plug is suppose to be...if running too lean it is creating more heat

 

[Sny]

Mine plugs aren't as white as I was expecting, but they're definitely on the lean side.

Makes me want to put a power commander on it. But I hate having to "Fix" something that BRP should already have well under control.

I don't mind removing my cat, but it'll definitely make it more lean, in which case the power commander is back on the table and... it starts getting complicated.

 

[Bob Denman]

Question:
These bikes are supposed to throw codes if a lean condition is detected...
How can they be running so lean, and not pop a code?

 

[flamingobabe]

Can't answer your question....but my spark plugs were chalky white and Mark look at them with a magnifying glass to see if there were metal pieces....did not find any....I have never popped a code on the 2013 ST....after the flash from PitBull and 2000 miles the plugs wer light mocha

 

[Bob Denman]

:2thumbs: that's the color that they should be! :2thumbs:

 

[jtpollock]

I have a 2012 RS SE5 the other day I was riding in 95° heat of the day just finished up 365 mile ride I noticed the sol of my right boot melted off so ya I think the heat problem needs to be corrected and not out of our pocket BRP needs to step up.:banghead: :dontknow:

 

[Tazzel]

The spyder has always had heat problems and always will until they change the motor or the design. There is enough info out there that people should know about this on going conditon and if they do research they will have this information and decide to purchase or not.
I knew this going into the purchase. I did the spyderPops mods which only helps a little. I am Luckly that my spyder heat is there but tolerable.

For those waiting for BRP to do something good luck. They have had this product for 5 or 6 years so I am not sure if there is any commitment by them on that subject.