Bob Denman
New member
Ann,
Just add him to your ignore list. Take away his voice and he'll go away... :thumbup:
Just add him to your ignore list. Take away his voice and he'll go away... :thumbup:
You are nuts! Maybe someone could send him a 5,000 mile pin so he will shut up!
Ann,
Just add him to your ignore list. Take away his voice and he'll go away... :thumbup:
I was too harsh in my wording. I was trying to be sarcastic. I do not actually believe that. I just read through a lot of your posts about the heat problems you are experiencing. I just have to remember that sarcasm doesn't translate well when you type words on a FORUM page.
However, I continue to be surprised how forgiving some (spyderlovers.com) people are with BRP when members point out a serious problem such as over-heating. You paid good money for your Spyder and you should not be an experiment for them to try out their new/revised models. I don't think they are trying to solve the heating problem you are describing. I think they are trying to solve the problem that is causing them to burn up their own engines.
BRP has clearly cozied up to some members on here in order to get positive posts on this Forum that helps with their marketing.
Just in case anybody wants to add me to their" ignore list"::shocked:
From the Home page, look down the left hand side of the screen until you see "User CP"
hit that button...
Again; the left hand side of the screen and down pretty near the bottom; "Edit Ignore List"
*BING*
:thumbup:
Fair is Fair; I'm fair game now; just like anybody else...
Owners of 2013 ST/RTs all need to be patient. Easier said than done, but it is true. Many of use read this forum on a daily basis so many of us have more up to date knowledge than many of the dealer techs do. That is a fact. This is not a unique situation to Spyders.
Another consideration is that many dealerships do not have a "certified" Spyder technician. I've been told very few of the dealers selling Spyders actually have a tech that is BRP certified for the Spyder product line. That does not help matters.
We should wait and see exactly what the root cause of the heat issue is and what the correction is. At face value a recall to better shield the master cylinder cover might seem to be odd, but I suspect this is simply how the corrective actions will be taken. The recall could include several other actions. Until we see the entire list of measures being taken we should not pass judgment. I for one judge on performance, not reputation. Some owners of 2013s have heat issues, some do not. There is a logical reason for this. Let's wait and see what kind of corrective measures are going to be taken. As tough as it is, it is better to be later and get it right the first time than to be quick and get it wrong, or worse yet have to do it twice.
And yes, I agree, any 2013 Spyder ST/RT going in for service should absolutely have the master cylinder inspected by a technician. This should have been occurring for a while now, especially considering the safety aspect of the issue. If BRP has in fact issued a “stop sale” order on new units, you know they’re onto something. This isn’t an easy thing for them to do, dealers start screaming because they can’t sell units that they’re paying interest on, so things will happen faster. Having consumers screaming is one thing, having dealers screaming is yet another. BRP sells to dealers, not consumers.
I had posted my thoughts on the heat issue in another thread, and still believe there is something going on with the ECU and its fuel mapping selection process. There is likely more to this than the new location for the CAT. Could be tricked into selecting a leaner map than it should if the airbox temp sensor is whacko or getting too warm, but you’d think the DET sensor would kick in and the map would be corrected. Nobody has indicated if using non-oxy 91 fuel makes a difference compared to oxy 87, there are too many loose ends here. Knowing how the ECU on a sled picks a fuel map and then adjusts fuel flow based on sensor inputs, I’m thinking there is something going on with this process that just isn’t right. Makes me wonder if those with cold air intake mods have the heat issues, I would guess not. I have noticed how a 2013 ST runs differently each time you key off/key on, so something is changing in that process. It always seems to run good when started cold, but on a hot start things seem to be different. I am curious to see what the root cause really is here.