• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Resolved Upper Heat Problem

robmorg

New member
No More "HOT SEAT"

I've resolved the upper heat problem on my 2013 RT to what is now an acceptable level. Of course you're never going to stop it all, but at least it's to the point where I can ride for many hours now without my thighs getting cooked.

I know there have been a lot of posts about "taming the dragon" and I've read most of them. One of the better ones IMO was Jerbear's recent thread, "The Dragon is Dead".

After a good bit of thought, I decided to ignore the radiator area down by my my right foot. It's never bothered me all that much, as I ride with jeans, and don't ever wear light weight socks or shoes. More importantly, I've never liked the idea of installing a heat shield down there that would likely direct more heat into the engine compartment, or removing or cutting holes in the bottom pan. The heat that has always bothered me much more is the heat coming up around the side panels and the seat which tends to fry my thighs as I ride. So that's what I've concentrated on.

JT's filter replacement fix may be a good option for many and I almost went that route. But in the end, I decided against that as well. I didn't want to jeopardize my 3-year extended warranty (which, right or wrong, my dealer said would be the case), and I know I would not be happy with the louder engine noise, although many don't mind that - especially with JT's new muffler installed on the air filter.

So I basically worked with my dealer to accomplish three modifications...

  • First I had them wrap both exhaust headers with exhaust tape. The front header that runs all along the left side of the engine compartment is the one most responsible for the seat heat, and as you can see in the picture, it comes all the way back to the gas tank before it takes a 90 deg turn down to the cat.

  • Then I added heat reflective tape to the backs of both top side panels (the panels that go under the front of the seat and around the glove box). We were careful to leave the vents in those panels open, but covered everything aft of there back toward the seat. Also completely covered the backs of both and the black upper lateral panels that go under the seat and above the gas tank. We used heat reflective tape, rather than heat insulation, so as not to take up any more room behind the panels than necessary.

  • And finally we devised "double sided" heat tape shields (using basic heat reflective tape back-to-back) between the engine and the gas tank to block/reflect heat coming up around the tank to the seat area. Did this around the glove box as well, and where the two side panels come together in the middle. Also used this concept to block off all the open areas in the lateral panels under the seat - especially the openings for the helmet tabs and around the seat lock on the right panel.

At the same time, we did the ECM firmware update outlined in Warranty Bulletin 2013-9. Apparently what that does is to enrich the fuel mixture at idle and slow speeds, which eliminates some of the heat coming up around the seat when you are going slow (like in city traffic).

The past two days, it's been in the 90's here, so I've taken some long rides to assess the results. Of course you are always going to feel some heat when you are sitting on top of a hot engine - especially while stalled in traffic. But for the most part, I've conquered the problem to the point that the remaining heat around the seat is down to where it is no longer objectionable. Before the mods, the four panels that we lined with reflective heat tape were always too hot to touch, and that is no longer the case. I believe that wrapping the headers is allowing a good bit of exhaust heat to flow out through the cat and muffler, thereby keeping both the engine compartment and the gas tank considerably cooler.

I've attached some picture below for reference.

My next step is to order the Lamonster Cat Bypass Pipe from Pit Bull Powersports. I'll cover that with heat shielding exhaust wrap before installing it, just like we put on the header pipes. That should make even more difference - especially toward reducing heat at the gas tank.
UPDATE: I did do the cat bypass in December, 2014. It has made a significant difference in the amount of heat the fuel tank is subjected to, as well as heat coming up around the seat. More details are in this thread.



Also, while the Spyder was in the shop, we installed Value Accessories' front bumper guard, BajaRon's beefed up sway bar and Keim joint links, and did the laser alignment. It's like I've got a brand new and improved Spyder now. :clap: I can't keep off of it.
 

Attachments

  • exhaust.jpg
    exhaust.jpg
    54.3 KB · Views: 397
  • tank.jpg
    tank.jpg
    53.2 KB · Views: 388
  • Top_side_panel-sm.jpg
    Top_side_panel-sm.jpg
    54.1 KB · Views: 368
  • Top_lateral_panel-sm.jpg
    Top_lateral_panel-sm.jpg
    28.1 KB · Views: 402
  • seat_lock-sm.jpg
    seat_lock-sm.jpg
    55 KB · Views: 382
Last edited:
Dealer?

You mentioned that you did this in conjunction with your dealer. I'm considering doing something very similar and have been hesitant to do it without someone more knowledgeable than me involved - your profile says you're from SEPA, who's your dealer?

Thanks!
 
:congrats: Glad to hear that you've, "Chained the Beast"!
15_3_27.gif
:clap: :2thumbs:
 
Congrats..!!

nicely done..seems you covered the areas giving the most problems. Good to know it has worked well this will help those with serious issues..:2thumbs:
 
You mentioned that you did this in conjunction with your dealer. I'm considering doing something very similar and have been hesitant to do it without someone more knowledgeable than me involved - your profile says you're from SEPA, who's your dealer?

Thanks!
My dealer is Liesure Sports 'N Turf. They are located on Route 724 in Parker Ford, about 5 miles NW of Phoenixville. The technician who is most experienced on Spyders (and BRP certified) is Ryan. He's the guy I worked with. The service manager, Adam, is an ex-technician and also BRP Certified. I like that because it is easy to talk with him about any Spyder related problem. They recently got in the equipment needed to do laser alignments there.
 
Last edited:
Thanks, Bob & Gene.

We've only had a couple real hot days since it came out of the shop, but on those days, the heat problem was noticeably improved all around the seat area. We lined the four panels which were closest to the seat and always really hot. They are all much cooler to the touch, and so are the adjacent lower side panels which we did NOT line. I'm also hoping that what we did will keep some of the heat away from the gas tank, even though I've never experienced the boiling gas or overflowing evaporator problems that some have. (It's hard to "second guess" they dynamics of the heat flow around the enclosed engine compartment when the Spyder is naked and all opened up. One thing is for sure - there is certainly minimal room in there for air flow.)

I'll be keeping an eye on it during the rest of the summer, as we should have plenty of really hot days left. Got a couple longer trips coming up in August, which should be a really good test.
 
Last edited:
SouthEast Pennsylvania??
I've got a College "Partner in Crime", living in North Wales...
I'm about 20 miles west of there.

Lots of nice riding in this area. I rode across the covered bridge in my avatar this past weekend. Stopped the Spyder in the middle of the road and took a picture.

Click on Picture
covered_bridge1sm.jpg
 
This is almost exactly what I did for my 2011 but I used thermal blanketing instead. I has 2 metallic faces and has a fire retardant treated insulating material between, the same material used under the hood of a vehicle. I did every panel, under the fuel thank and up and over the air filter box. This forces all the heat to move down and out the back of the bike. It was amazing, no more boiling tank, no more scorched jewels and my feet kept nice an cool. After a hard ride you could feel any of the plastic and it would be ambient temperature. I blocked off all of the left side panels and added the blanketing there as well being careful to get it 100%. I did the header wrap later but found it did nothing more save a slightly quieter ride.
 
You did a more thorough job than I did, but hopefully both accomplished a similar end. My thinking was to put as little thickness as possible under there in order not to take up any of the minimal amount of room available for air flow.

I noticed that wrapping the pipes did result in a slightly quieter ride. I liked that.
 
Back
Top