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There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Now mine....
- Thread starter ataDude
- Start date
ataDude
Mod Maniac
Thanks! I got pretty darn close to a "no-heat-shield-to-cover-welding" situation but... no cigar.
LDFIREWORKS
New member
PRETTY DAME COOL GOOD JOB
ataDude
Mod Maniac
C.H.A.D. is here...
... installed today. Keep in mind this is my winter shield... I will continue to use my medium CalSci for three seasons.
Unless you have three hands, you'll need to use contact cement or RTV to afix the rubber washers to the brackets before trying to install the shield.
Update: In retrospect, install the windshield brackets to the windshield, then install that assembly to the bike. Two hands will suffice without contact cement. Why am I always smarter after I'm finished?
ray:
Road test will be tomorrow... 200 miles with temps as low as 30*.
Update: Now with several hundred miles, I can safely say that this is a great winter windshield... great protection and easy adjustment. The "problem" mentioned in another thread with holding the adjustment "set" was resolved by using a stainless steel "star" lock washer on each of the top two adjustment bolts between the sliding sheet metal parts.
Pic 1: Install base bracket to bike using stock Torx screws:
Pic 2: Install windshield brackets to base bracket:
Pic 3: After install of windshield to brackets... from the front. I recommend using blue Loc-Tite for these screws/nuts:
Pic 4: After install from the side:
... installed today. Keep in mind this is my winter shield... I will continue to use my medium CalSci for three seasons.
Unless you have three hands, you'll need to use contact cement or RTV to afix the rubber washers to the brackets before trying to install the shield.
Update: In retrospect, install the windshield brackets to the windshield, then install that assembly to the bike. Two hands will suffice without contact cement. Why am I always smarter after I'm finished?
ray:Road test will be tomorrow... 200 miles with temps as low as 30*.
Update: Now with several hundred miles, I can safely say that this is a great winter windshield... great protection and easy adjustment. The "problem" mentioned in another thread with holding the adjustment "set" was resolved by using a stainless steel "star" lock washer on each of the top two adjustment bolts between the sliding sheet metal parts.
Pic 1: Install base bracket to bike using stock Torx screws:
Pic 2: Install windshield brackets to base bracket:
Pic 3: After install of windshield to brackets... from the front. I recommend using blue Loc-Tite for these screws/nuts:
Pic 4: After install from the side:
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LDFIREWORKS
New member
great job on the lights
lights look great
[/quote]
lights look great
LDFIREWORKS
New member
great job look clean
st everywhere. I buy the looms from JC Whitney in boxes containing 100' each. :
[/quote]
st everywhere. I buy the looms from JC Whitney in boxes containing 100' each. :
bjt
Very Helpful Member
Cool ataDude. Since they've supposedly changed the mechanism design since the initial demo videos, can you tell me if it adjusts the same as in those videos or not? Even though I'm sure you aren't supposed to, how easy would it be to adjust it while riding? Can't wait to get your ride report.
ataDude
Mod Maniac
Hey, Brian. Didn't get to ride today... later on that part. Sorry.
It still adjusts the way the original video showed (Shawn)... up/down and angles front/back. It uses thumb screws to hold/release... I don't think it would be easy to adjust while riding... might be downright unsafe.
Build quality appears excellent...their welding is far above mine.
However, it is big and for winter only. .
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ataDude
Mod Maniac
Update on Corbin rear fender...
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Original post: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=58440&postcount=93
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I ran across another "routine" job (yesterday and today) that is impacted by the design of the Corbin fender... a rear tire change.
Other than the fender-related stuff, the removal and reinstall of the rear wheel is not that big a job... maybe a "4" on a scale of 10 and 1.5 hours total (both off and on)... with the proper tools.
However, the fender "engineering" comes into play yet again... the part where the mounting bolts are molded into the fender, not "through" the fender as the stock mounting bolts are. What a pain!
With a tire change, fiddling with it is a little better than the original install if you actually remove the axle (once you remove the brake caliper from its mount <two 13mm bolts> and loosen the alignment bolts by about ten full turns) and drop the tire down for clearance... but it's still a pain.
My dealer would have charged $75 +/- for normal removal and install "on-the-bike" which is a fair price with the stock fender. I wanted to do the first one just to see what extra time would be involved. My guess, without breaks, cokes or smokes, an extra hour of labor would be fair. All of a sudden, that $75 would turn into $170 in this market... with the Corbin fender.
Fixes:
1. I mentioned in the first post that the very thin (24 guage?) Corbin license light wiring was exposed to dirt, mud and rocks from the rear tire. That's not good particularly as the wiring is within 1" of the tire itself.
While I had the fender off this time, I covered the exposed wire with four layers of duct tape and then sealed the edges and tape seams with RTV. Good old duct tape... a million uses. I thought using about a 1/8" ID small tube, or conduit, but took the duct tape/RTV option as I figured it was "flatter" and would be more resistant to mud.
BTW, if you've never used Posi-Locks and Posi-Taps before, buy some... you'll love 'em for minor electrical connections. Google "Posi-Lock" for more information. I found them not too long ago and absolutely could not do without them, now.
2. As I also mentioned before, the original fit to the fender mounts left wide gaps due to construction. My trusty large rubber mallet and giant Vise-Grips took care of that fit with a little work on the fender mounts... not the fender! It does look somewhat better now. But... if I ever wanted to go back to the stock fender, I'd have to re-bend/fit the mounts.
This fender is not an accessory for the person (1) who can't perform his own fitting, (2) who doesn't want to beat on his/her Spyder with a rubber mallet or (3) who is a perfectionist (it will drive you nuts thinking that you paid $229 plus shipping for it).
.
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Original post: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=58440&postcount=93
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
I ran across another "routine" job (yesterday and today) that is impacted by the design of the Corbin fender... a rear tire change.
Other than the fender-related stuff, the removal and reinstall of the rear wheel is not that big a job... maybe a "4" on a scale of 10 and 1.5 hours total (both off and on)... with the proper tools.
However, the fender "engineering" comes into play yet again... the part where the mounting bolts are molded into the fender, not "through" the fender as the stock mounting bolts are. What a pain!
With a tire change, fiddling with it is a little better than the original install if you actually remove the axle (once you remove the brake caliper from its mount <two 13mm bolts> and loosen the alignment bolts by about ten full turns) and drop the tire down for clearance... but it's still a pain.
My dealer would have charged $75 +/- for normal removal and install "on-the-bike" which is a fair price with the stock fender. I wanted to do the first one just to see what extra time would be involved. My guess, without breaks, cokes or smokes, an extra hour of labor would be fair. All of a sudden, that $75 would turn into $170 in this market... with the Corbin fender.
Fixes:
1. I mentioned in the first post that the very thin (24 guage?) Corbin license light wiring was exposed to dirt, mud and rocks from the rear tire. That's not good particularly as the wiring is within 1" of the tire itself.
While I had the fender off this time, I covered the exposed wire with four layers of duct tape and then sealed the edges and tape seams with RTV. Good old duct tape... a million uses. I thought using about a 1/8" ID small tube, or conduit, but took the duct tape/RTV option as I figured it was "flatter" and would be more resistant to mud.
BTW, if you've never used Posi-Locks and Posi-Taps before, buy some... you'll love 'em for minor electrical connections. Google "Posi-Lock" for more information. I found them not too long ago and absolutely could not do without them, now.
2. As I also mentioned before, the original fit to the fender mounts left wide gaps due to construction. My trusty large rubber mallet and giant Vise-Grips took care of that fit with a little work on the fender mounts... not the fender! It does look somewhat better now. But... if I ever wanted to go back to the stock fender, I'd have to re-bend/fit the mounts.
This fender is not an accessory for the person (1) who can't perform his own fitting, (2) who doesn't want to beat on his/her Spyder with a rubber mallet or (3) who is a perfectionist (it will drive you nuts thinking that you paid $229 plus shipping for it).
.
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ataDude
Mod Maniac
Sway bar...
... I installed the heavy-duty sway bar ($230, Evoluzion.net) last week but didn't have an opportunity for a road test until today. It is advertised as about 30% stiffer than stock.
This photo courtesy of Evoluzione.net
After about 125 miles of mild-to-wild farm roads, I can only say this "upgrade" is definitely well worth the money if you are an aggressive rider. There is a noticeable reduction in "lean" throughout a curve... all the way from the initial entry to the exit.
Note that this is a "performance" mod! If you don't push your Roadster through the twisties, I'm not too sure what this mod will buy you. But..... I'm glad I have it!
The installation can occur without totally removing the front trunk if you have a decent jack. I jacked the front of the bike up about 1-1.5 feet and used jack stands under the front suspension. Both front, upper black panels (the ones with the air intake and/or fog lights) and the wrap-around, flat-black nose plastic were then removed to access the sway bar from underneath.
After removing the front plastic nose from the mounting points, you can use a very large screwdriver or wrench to "lever" the trunk up and forward by about 1-1.5"... enough to remove the old bar and install the new one.
There are only four 13mm (wrench size) bolts/nuts used to bolt the sway bar to the frame (along with the plastic bushings)... and then two more 13mm bolts/nuts that connect the sway bar to the small tie rods.
Removal/installation without removing the trunk is a little more tedious but pretty much an even swap of time. My front-mounted fuse block (see first post in this thread) would have caused a dramatic increase of time in removing the trunk.
Note that there are two mounting options... "stiff" and "stiffer". Using the inner mounting holes (for the tie rod connections) on each end of the sway bar is the "stiffer" option.
Sorry, but I didn't take pictures along the way. However, the below pic shows one of the two frame mounting points from the fully-assembled left side.
Oops... I forgot to clean the A-arm covers. Sloppy.
pps:
... I installed the heavy-duty sway bar ($230, Evoluzion.net) last week but didn't have an opportunity for a road test until today. It is advertised as about 30% stiffer than stock.
This photo courtesy of Evoluzione.net
After about 125 miles of mild-to-wild farm roads, I can only say this "upgrade" is definitely well worth the money if you are an aggressive rider. There is a noticeable reduction in "lean" throughout a curve... all the way from the initial entry to the exit.
Note that this is a "performance" mod! If you don't push your Roadster through the twisties, I'm not too sure what this mod will buy you. But..... I'm glad I have it!
The installation can occur without totally removing the front trunk if you have a decent jack. I jacked the front of the bike up about 1-1.5 feet and used jack stands under the front suspension. Both front, upper black panels (the ones with the air intake and/or fog lights) and the wrap-around, flat-black nose plastic were then removed to access the sway bar from underneath.
After removing the front plastic nose from the mounting points, you can use a very large screwdriver or wrench to "lever" the trunk up and forward by about 1-1.5"... enough to remove the old bar and install the new one.
There are only four 13mm (wrench size) bolts/nuts used to bolt the sway bar to the frame (along with the plastic bushings)... and then two more 13mm bolts/nuts that connect the sway bar to the small tie rods.
Removal/installation without removing the trunk is a little more tedious but pretty much an even swap of time. My front-mounted fuse block (see first post in this thread) would have caused a dramatic increase of time in removing the trunk.
Note that there are two mounting options... "stiff" and "stiffer".
Using the inner mounting holes (for the tie rod connections) on each end of the sway bar is the "stiffer" option. Sorry, but I didn't take pictures along the way. However, the below pic shows one of the two frame mounting points from the fully-assembled left side.
Oops... I forgot to clean the A-arm covers. Sloppy.
pps:
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... different construction, semi-gloss ceramic, smaller heat shield:
.
Looks almost '06 Kawasaki Z1000-like...might be visually cool to have it on both sides ala the Z1000...dunno about the performance, tho. Nice mods ataDude!
http://www.seastarsuperbikes.co.uk/KAWASAKIMODELS/Kawasaki%20%2006%20800/ZR1000a/06zr1000a_sil_rs800.jpg
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ataDude
Mod Maniac
Thanks! I may make another version (soon or later) where the pipes are much closer together... like your pic.
fastfraser
Blazing Member
Great Mods
Big thumbs up. Keep the pics and mods comming.:clap::2thumbs::spyder:
Big thumbs up. Keep the pics and mods comming.:clap::2thumbs::spyder:
ataDude
Mod Maniac
Thanks... but I'm quickly running out of things to do... but keep watching in the next few days for a dual side GSXR-1000 exhaust.
ataDude
Mod Maniac
Finally...
... After about 40 hours and $800 in parts, the duals are on. Approximately $250 of the various excess reducers, flex joints, clamps and spare mufflers were not used.
Construction. The plumbing was built from scratch from 2"OD pipe, various reducers and odds and ends. Each side was individually cut, assembled, fitted, welded or clamped one step at a time and consists of between 9-12 individual components... each. The 2" OD pipe was exactly the right ID size (about 1 7/8") to continue to use the stock upper slip-joint gaskets.
Update: I "re-made" the two L pipes which exit from under the bike out of 2.125" OD pipe. The ID of 2.0" allows for a good, close-tolerance slip-joint and the elimination of one weld on each side.
"Gasketless" slip-joints, sealed with high-temp RTV, and band clamps were used for the sections as they emerge from the sides of the bike. With little work and expense, new "L" sections can be fitted for other mufflers if desired. The GSX-R1000 mufflers use triangular flanges with a 3" bolt pattern welded on to the pipe... a little different from the other mufflers I have used.
Sections from three of these were used on each side:
Hangers were made from 3/8" steel rod. They are suspended much the same as the stock... except with two rubber isolators instead of one. The stock, single frame-welded hanger accepted the extra rubber isolator rather nicely.
The pipes exit from the bike's sides about 4" further forward than the standard right-side elbow so that approximately 1.5" of vertical clearance was provided for the drive belt (on the left). The belt side was built first to allow for this clearance and then the right side was "mirrored" so that the upward angle for the pipes/mufflers would be the same.
Full-length heat shields from the same perforated aluminum that was used on the SuperTrapps will be made at a later date. The shields will cover only the "L" portion of the pipes exposed to view on either side.
The right pipe houses the stock O2 sensor. If needed at a later (much later!) date, a cross-over pipe connecting the two sides can easily be constructed... or the evoluzion.net O2 sensor eliminator can be reinstalled... or the Two Brother's Juice Box, which I ordered from No Magic Neon a while back, can be used.
Exhaust flow should be better than stock. Only three 90 degree turns exist on each side of the new pipes. Including the final 90 degree elbow on the stock setup, five turns exist for the right side pipe... and just three for the left.
The stock 2-to-1 is on the left... the upper slip-joint gaskets which occasionally give us trouble are at the top of the two intakes. The new plumbing is on the right.
Mufflers. The mufflers are from a 2008 Suzuki GSX-R1000. I had to buy two sets on eBay to get one decent set. Even so, these are a relative bargain at $75-100 a set as they are titanium, stainless steel and aluminum. Replacements from Suzuki are about $900 per side.
The mufflers' stock hang/mounting points were used but... the bolt holes did need to be enlarged.
Two big pluses: there's no glass or ceramic packing to wear out - only stainless chambers... and each side only weighs about four pounds.
Sound. The sound is distinctively different from the stock 2-to-1 setup as you can hear each cylinder individually (think Ducati Monster with non-stock duals). The noise level is a tad louder than a Hindle but nowhere near as loud as a Micron... it's very similar to the dual SuperTrapps (earlier in this thread) with four diffuser disks each.
The GSX-R1000 (but not the Spyder) also uses a central muffler box under the engine which contains the catalytic converter as well as additional baffles.
I had no clue as I was buying/building what this set-up would sound like. I got what I was hoping for... out of sheer luck.
Finally, there was one casualty after the build was over. The cast aluminum foot guard at the driver's right foot peg appeared to be a little crooked. So...if you think you want to straighten one of yours, think twice. It didn't take much... just an outward tug... to break it. :yikes:
.
... After about 40 hours and $800 in parts, the duals are on. Approximately $250 of the various excess reducers, flex joints, clamps and spare mufflers were not used.
Construction. The plumbing was built from scratch from 2"OD pipe, various reducers and odds and ends. Each side was individually cut, assembled, fitted, welded or clamped one step at a time and consists of between 9-12 individual components... each. The 2" OD pipe was exactly the right ID size (about 1 7/8") to continue to use the stock upper slip-joint gaskets.
Update: I "re-made" the two L pipes which exit from under the bike out of 2.125" OD pipe. The ID of 2.0" allows for a good, close-tolerance slip-joint and the elimination of one weld on each side.
"Gasketless" slip-joints, sealed with high-temp RTV, and band clamps were used for the sections as they emerge from the sides of the bike. With little work and expense, new "L" sections can be fitted for other mufflers if desired. The GSX-R1000 mufflers use triangular flanges with a 3" bolt pattern welded on to the pipe... a little different from the other mufflers I have used.
Sections from three of these were used on each side:
Hangers were made from 3/8" steel rod. They are suspended much the same as the stock... except with two rubber isolators instead of one. The stock, single frame-welded hanger accepted the extra rubber isolator rather nicely.
The pipes exit from the bike's sides about 4" further forward than the standard right-side elbow so that approximately 1.5" of vertical clearance was provided for the drive belt (on the left). The belt side was built first to allow for this clearance and then the right side was "mirrored" so that the upward angle for the pipes/mufflers would be the same.
Full-length heat shields from the same perforated aluminum that was used on the SuperTrapps will be made at a later date. The shields will cover only the "L" portion of the pipes exposed to view on either side.
The right pipe houses the stock O2 sensor. If needed at a later (much later!) date, a cross-over pipe connecting the two sides can easily be constructed... or the evoluzion.net O2 sensor eliminator can be reinstalled... or the Two Brother's Juice Box, which I ordered from No Magic Neon a while back, can be used.
Exhaust flow should be better than stock. Only three 90 degree turns exist on each side of the new pipes. Including the final 90 degree elbow on the stock setup, five turns exist for the right side pipe... and just three for the left.
The stock 2-to-1 is on the left... the upper slip-joint gaskets which occasionally give us trouble are at the top of the two intakes. The new plumbing is on the right.
Mufflers. The mufflers are from a 2008 Suzuki GSX-R1000. I had to buy two sets on eBay to get one decent set. Even so, these are a relative bargain at $75-100 a set as they are titanium, stainless steel and aluminum. Replacements from Suzuki are about $900 per side.
The mufflers' stock hang/mounting points were used but... the bolt holes did need to be enlarged.
Two big pluses: there's no glass or ceramic packing to wear out - only stainless chambers... and each side only weighs about four pounds.
Sound. The sound is distinctively different from the stock 2-to-1 setup as you can hear each cylinder individually (think Ducati Monster with non-stock duals). The noise level is a tad louder than a Hindle but nowhere near as loud as a Micron... it's very similar to the dual SuperTrapps (earlier in this thread) with four diffuser disks each.
The GSX-R1000 (but not the Spyder) also uses a central muffler box under the engine which contains the catalytic converter as well as additional baffles.
I had no clue as I was buying/building what this set-up would sound like. I got what I was hoping for... out of sheer luck.
Finally, there was one casualty after the build was over. The cast aluminum foot guard at the driver's right foot peg appeared to be a little crooked. So...if you think you want to straighten one of yours, think twice. It didn't take much... just an outward tug... to break it. :yikes:
.
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ataDude
Mod Maniac
Hey, Brian... don't know yet. I'm resting... :yikes: ... thinking about heat shields. It's supposed to rain tomorrow and Wednesday and I'm not getting it dirty after a couple hours of cleaning!
I'll probably be able to definitively tell this coming weekend... when I try to match the modified DL1000 that I ride with. He's always been able to beat me by about 8-10 bike lengths in a quarter... not much... maybe a few tenths... but it's a benchmark that I'm used to.
It does sound good, though... hearing the two cylinders doing their jobs - separately :thumbup:
.
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ataDude
Mod Maniac
I never had to weld on it... I finagled a second rubber hanger (same as stock) on the existing frame mounting rod.
Cross-over... don't know if I'll use the flex joints... will need two stub pipes pointing inward from each side... then connected by some sort of sliding joint/adapter/clamp. I don't want to have to drop both sides to replace just one of the upper gaskets.
.
Cross-over... don't know if I'll use the flex joints... will need two stub pipes pointing inward from each side... then connected by some sort of sliding joint/adapter/clamp. I don't want to have to drop both sides to replace just one of the upper gaskets.
.
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