Ooomg...what the..?!!!

[NancysToy]

Ok so I took the Mad pumpkin out for a ride today; a bit longer than the last trip. Kept the revs up around 5600, shifted around 6500. Didn't have any problems this time but i have noticed a vibration coming from the back end below and above 5600. Belt didn't seem loose, but being new i have no idea how tight that thing is supposed to be. My dirt bike was easy if there was no more than an inch play then it was fine. Other than that it ran fine, I just really kept on the revs and made sure it didn't go below 4500 before I shifted lower if I had to.opcorn:

Inspect your sprockets very closely. The least little bit of debris built up in the sprocket grooves causes a great vibration. I picked up a stone recently, as you might have. After the awful racket, mine got stuck in the sprocket, resulting in severe vibration. After it was removed, the vibration was less, but still very noticeable. Upon closer inspection, I found bits of tar and dirt barely coating some grooves. After cleaning thoroughly, everything was fine. Also look closer at the belt...a divot can cause vibration. The Spyder does seem to have some resonant vibration around 5,000 rpm, however, so what you feel now may be normal.

The best thing to do with belt tension is to have the dealer set it with his sonic gauge. A Krikit2 from NAPA or Gates can substitute, if you take a reading on a properly tensioned belt for comparison. The old rule of thumb is to grab the belt between your index finger and thumb, midway between the sprockets, and give it a twist. If it twists 90 degrees, with some difficulty, it is close to the right tension. If it twists more, it is too loose, if less, too tight. Spyder belts usually need to be retensioned at the 600 mile service. It is best for a dealer to do this, and it's a good time to compare to a Krikit reading for future reference.

 

[vtspyder]

Just a thought; My RS has never had a problem with being bogged. EVER. Although I've spent considerable time tuning with the AFR gauge and JB Pro. I don't bog it often however. It's always smooth as silk. I would put a jack under the bottom rear shock mount on the swingarm, jack it up, start it and put it in gear while idleing. Let the rear wheel spin while watching the belt and sprockets with a flashlight. Have someone juice it to about 3000 rpms while you're watching it. It may well be excessive water in the gas (yes, even Super) if it contains ANY ethanol. A skip would cause it to bang like that. While you're at it check to make sure nothing is loose like front sprocket/wheel alignment/belt tracking/tension etc. I just had a fuel issue with my 660r Raptor with tracks and skis while riding in the mountains a couple of days ago. Might very well be a skipping engine because of questionable fuel. Good luck!

 

[NancysToy]

Just a thought; My RS has never had a problem with being bogged. EVER. Although I've spent considerable time tuning with the AFR gauge and JB Pro. I don't bog it often however. It's always smooth as silk. I would put a jack under the bottom rear shock mount on the swingarm, jack it up, start it and put it in gear while idleing. Let the rear wheel spin while watching the belt and sprockets with a flashlight. Have someone juice it to about 3000 rpms while you're watching it. It may well be excessive water in the gas (yes, even Super) if it contains ANY ethanol. A skip would cause it to bang like that. While you're at it check to make sure nothing is loose like front sprocket/wheel alignment/belt tracking/tension etc. I just had a fuel issue with my 660r Raptor with tracks and skis while riding in the mountains a couple of days ago. Might very well be a skipping engine because of questionable fuel. Good luck!

This does not make Miss Nanny happy!

 

[Bob Denman]

:agree: You'll freak her out with the different speeds in the front and rear of the bike. :yikes:

 

[MikeinGA]

I'm gonna guess at bad gas, condensation in the gas, bad spark plug wires, wet spark plug wires, or too low rpm. Could easily be a combination. Put some Stabil or SeaFoam in it, top off the gas, and ride the thing. Keep the rpm up as much as possible, especially up hills...this ain't no Harley or Goldwing! If the problem persists, see your dealer.

I had the same problems I did the same as above and never went away. I took it to Freedom Motor Sports in Lawreneville, Ga. They found that the map sensor was faulty and replace it. I have over 6,000 miles on it after they changed it and runs like new. Take it to your dealer. That's in IMHO

Mike

 

[SheWolf]

Well, so far so good, haven't had it happen again. Dealer figures it was the traction control kicking in; it's going to go in for the 1k checkup/change and have the front bumper replaced. They said they would go over it with a fine toothed comb. They treat me really well at the Kelowna dealership. :thumbup:

 

[Bob Denman]

Ahhh... So it was an "RW error"... :thumbup:


I had the same thing happen to me yesterday. I wicked it up on a piece of wet blacktop, and accidently spun the tire to clean the mud off of it. :shocked: :roflblack:





Right Wrist

 

[vtspyder]

This does not make Miss Nanny happy!

Can't hold it sustained. But it will idle forever like that "in gear" rear wheel spinning with no nanny kicking in. I do it when adjusting the belt. And yes, the nanny works! trust me I know. rear tire burned off in less than 6000 miles with no burnouts. Just riding the corners. the old bag "nanny" checks in every time.

 

[Bob Denman]

Perhaps the difference in speeds between the stationary fronts, and the spinning rear isn't quite high enough to wake her up? :dontknow:

 

[NancysToy]

Can't hold it sustained. But it will idle forever like that "in gear" rear wheel spinning with no nanny kicking in. I do it when adjusting the belt. And yes, the nanny works! trust me I know. rear tire burned off in less than 6000 miles with no burnouts. Just riding the corners. the old bag "nanny" checks in every time.

You can idle there, but if you raise the revs beyond a certain level you will get a VCS warning and some fault codes, and sometimes the traction control kicks in. That is why you need to remove the ABS sensors to put the Spyder on the dyno.

 

[donec]

If the sound is from backfiring it could be poping at the exaust gasket and that would make it sound like it was under you and not at the pipe. Years ago ford had a problem with blowing exaust gaskets and it sounded like throwing a rod.

 

[boborgera]

You can idle there, but if you raise the revs beyond a certain level you will get a VCS warning and some fault codes, and sometimes the traction control kicks in. That is why you need to remove the ABS sensors to put the Spyder on the dyno.

Or just turn the handle bars i few degrees left or right.!!

 

[SheWolf]

*facepaws*

Well...Wolfy is back in the shop. He died on me in the middle of the intersection on the highway. *sighs* Soooooo....he was in the shop a few weeks ago for the first service, and I had Nelly go over him with all of the things that I had noticed before the service: he changed the plugs and got it all done up again. I tell you that bike rode totally different. Smile was a mile wide. Then...the backfire slowly returned...and so did the flat spot upon acceleration.:dontknow: Then, this morning while out riding and getting a few things done, there was an audible miss. The tach was bouncing from 1100 to 1550 and back, I thought it was gonna die. I put it into neutral, revved him up a bit and then put him into first to get going. That's when the chattering started. I feathered the gas and it evened out after a bit, but I knew something was direly wrong. I started to head to the Ski Doo dealer, which was about 3 blocks from where I was, because I had this ugly feeling in the pit of my gut. Then, when I was sitting at the intersection to get my ass off the highway, he started to chug like he was only running on one hole. Gave him a light feather to the gas....buh-buh-pop...chatter-chatter-chatter..buh-buh.....and then nothing. Dead. :shocked: F**%$$#@^^&***%%$ Get off and roll him backwards just a tad so I could get a bit of momentum to push him forward, and ran over my foot. :banghead: Got pissed off, jumped back on him and hit the starter. He fired up, but oooooh did he sound sick. I chugged-a buh-buh-pop-fart and JUST managed to get him into the parking lot, where the mechanic was helping unstrap some units. Got him to listen to it and he just stood there with his mouth open, shaking his head. Sooooooo....he's getting trailered and being taken into the bigger dealer tonight and back into the shop he goes to find out WTF is going on. He couldn't figure out off his head what it could be....plugs, maybe coil. *whimpers* Arrrrrgh I hope they find out what is wrong with him...I don't want to be without my scoot for too long.

 

[SheWolf]

*Update*

Well, for anyone that's interested...looks like my bike is getting a set of injectors and a throttle body. Thank you BRP warranty.:bowdown:

 

[NancysToy]

Unusual problem. I hope you are back on the road soon, and that the rest of your miles will be trouble free.

 

[SheWolf]

It was the same problem that I had before; after the service was done it ran awesome....but then....it slowly returned, then got worse. No codes. Nothing. Backfire was shooting three foot flames out the pipe, flat spot returned upon gentle acceleration, and that chatter came back....only this time it started from a dead stop. They unhooked the fuel injection, then hooked up one side and ran it. It ran on one hole, but as soon as they hooked up the second injector it died. Because it was making the same chattering problem but from a dead start, they are bringing in a throttle body as well. I damn near died when they told me the price on that thing!!! :yikes:

 

[SheWolf]

Turns out the spark plug boot was cracked and arcing out on the cylinder head. Everything was fine when it was cold but once it warmed up it ran like shyt. So, two new plugs, and two new boots. Picking it up tomorrow!:bowdown::thumbup:

 

[ThreeWheels]

Turns out the spark plug boot was cracked and arcing out on the cylinder head. Everything was fine when it was cold but once it warmed up it ran like shyt. So, two new plugs, and two new boots. Picking it up tomorrow!:bowdown::thumbup:

You need to replace the OEM spark plugs/wires with iridium plugs and BajaRon's wires.
The OEM setup is really, really, REALLY bad.

Did I mention that the that the OEM spark plug wires suck rotten eggs ?

 

[Frank G]

Thanks for all the updates, hope you enjoy yours as much as we enjoy ours. Hope it is fixed.

 

[SheWolf]

Yikes....I had no idea they were THAT bad...:shocked: Gotta love outsourcing.:sour: