HELP!!! Bolt Broke!!!

[Jeriatric]

Army, what's the prognosis?

 

[johnwinslow]

if you remove the other bolt remove the cover and filter use the good bolt to find a nut that fits it, thread the nut on to the broken stub just a turn or so, this will provide a guide for the reverse drill you will buy at sears. this drill should have a 1/4 drive hex, now put a ten inch extension and a 1/4 drive bit in your reversible drill, the rest should be obvious go slow, the bolts hold the cover on and provide compression for the o ring, do not forget to clean the strainer, do not over tighten the hose clamp, the hose is expensive.

 

[WackyDan]

A good torque wrench is a good investment and will repay the cost in the long term by saving money, sweat, tears and beers over broken bolts. I have never broken a bolt when using a torque wrench correctly set. Sure have broken a lot using the 'arm strong' method. All of the extraction methods work with a healthy dose of patience. Good luck. :banghead:

The oil filer cap bolts only require 7-8 pounds to tighten. THe drain plugs are 15. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

 

[NancysToy]

The oil filer cap bolts only require 7-8 pounds to tighten. THe drain plugs are 15. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

:thumbup: The screws require 97 lbf-in which translates to 8 lbf-ft.

 

[ArmySpyder]

Looks as if the shop will start working on it tomorrow afternoon. Hoping I didnt do any damage by trying to get it out myself, to keep the tech from being able to not get it out. A friend of mine said dont be suprised if it cost $1k to get it out:yikes:. Anyone else think this is a little steep? I know nothing is impossible, but can someone please ease my mind a bit:gaah:

 

[wyliec]

They told you 1 hrs. labor.

 

[SteveMac]

They told you 1 hrs. labor.

Agree.

Heck, at $1k, sign me up. I'll do one a day every day and smile all the way to the bank!!

 

[ArmySpyder]

They told you 1 hrs. labor.

They told me ATLEAST an hour, which worries me...

 

[wyliec]

I see you're from Kentucky. If they mess with you, get hold of Raylan Givens. Nobody messes with Raylan.:joke:

 

[NancysToy]

They told me ATLEAST an hour, which worries me...

There is no way they can know the answer. It could be easy, and it could be insanely difficult. Easy takes an hour, tough can take many times that. There is no flat rate for work like this. It is all done on a time and materials basis. Look at it this way, they will probably do it in a fraction of the time it would take you...with far less chance of goofing things up. If you damage the crankcase trying to get out the stub, an engine teardown would be necessary. Bite the bullet and take it in. There is no other good choice unless you have done this kind of work before, and have the proper tools and experience.

 

[ArmySpyder]

There is no way they can know the answer. It could be easy, and it could be insanely difficult. Easy takes an hour, tough can take many times that. There is no flat rate for work like this. It is all done on a time and materials basis. Look at it this way, they will probably do it in a fraction of the time it would take you...with far less chance of goofing things up. If you damage the crankcase trying to get out the stub, an engine teardown would be necessary. Bite the bullet and take it in. There is no other good choice unless you have done this kind of work before, and have the proper tools and experience.

Yeh I stopped before I would be in danger of drilling into it or anything like that, but like you said nobody knows. Only positive is that their best mechanic is the Spyder Tech, maybe thats falls as a positive for me.

 

[wyliec]

ArmySpyder,

Was it fixed today and did they break the bank?

 

[ArmySpyder]

ArmySpyder,

Was it fixed today and did they break the bank?

They called me with better news than I had been expecting. The guy said the HIGH-end would be $400, but he said he doesnt see it taking nearly that much time. @ $100/hr thats not bad I dont guess, but Im just thankful its not more. Should have on my riding gear by Friday!!!! Plus they had an ECU update. For those who havent been to the shop in a while, may want to make sure you dont need it. Will let you guys know when I pay the bill how much Im out all together.

 

[ArmySpyder]

Well, stopped at the Dealer yesterday because I was out with fam and check on the Spyder...not done yet:banghead: Svc Mgr told me it would be today, ugh. Patience is a virtue, but not one of mine. Will let you guys know if I get it, and how much.

 

[Turbo Shred]

I did the same thing on my first oil change. Over tightened it and the bolt broke. I actually like the design. Keeps you from stripping the threads out of the engine case. Fortunately for me I took a beer break, came back and actually backed the broken bolt out with my fingers. Whew! Now I use a nut driver instead of a ratchet. I have a torque wrench but it's a big one that doesn't go down to 8ft lbs. Before next time I will get a smaller one that measures in inch lbs. Live and learn. :doorag:

 

[pro10is]

These are tiny bolts...very easy to overtorque and damage or snap. Bolts don't break for "no reason", or because they are "bad". They break because they are tightened too much, corrode in place, are not tightened evenly, were cross-treaded, bottomed out, etc. Removing the broken bolt is one thing, but figuring out why it broke is more important, to prevent it from happening again.

This is sooo true! You know you're finally a qualified, experienced mechanic when you at last reach the stage where you no longer destroy fasteners. It only takes about 30 years. :roflblack:

 

[Smokinspyder]

You could try a small chisel and tap on what's left carefully in a counter clockwise direction. This should start it out if enough material is left on the bold. It shouldn't have any pressure on it now.

Next step if you can't get that to work is to center punch the bolt in the dead center. That may take some prep work like grinding it square first to get the punch lined up.

Don't drill it for an extractor as they almost always break off. Get a 1/16" left handed drill bit and use a reversible drill to start drilling it. It may actually unscrewed as you drill.

All bets are off if it isn't centered! Of you do have it centered then you can step up on size until you can use a small screw driver to turn the hollow screw out.

That is what I would do in those steps.

Another thought is to get a small grinder and cut a slot across the end sticking out and then try a screwdriver on the new slot.


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Pretty darn good advice Been in your shoes mate just keep calm and youll get it handled . Dont get down on yourself about that , everyone even the best professionals have broken screws/bolts etc in their career , even they had to get creative to get the rest out . Patience is key, keep your chin up and get it if you dont you can still live a normal life with one kidney HA HA ... :roflblack:
:roflblack:

 

[CyncySpyder]

Teddy wants to know if there's any new news about this saga?

:hun:opcorn::bbq::dontknow::bbq:opcorn::hun:

 

[ArmySpyder]

11 days and counting... They had to order a hydraulic gasket for the hydraulic case. They have to remove the case to get a straight shot at the bolt, and replace the gasket when they do that. Called today and he said the guy had it tore down, but wasnt done with it. Asked them if it would be tomorrow, and he was like, "I dont want to tell you anything for sure". I get that, I do. But here's the deal, you keep telling me he's working on it, but it's still ONLY going to be at MAX 4hrs of labor. So if he's working on it, and now has all the parts, and your telling no more labor than you quoted...then WTF! Sorry, Im ranting, just doesnt make any sense.

 

[Buttsy]

:banghead::banghead:...........hang in there, has to get better soon? Man I hear your frustration, why can't people just give you the facts without all the BS.