ataDude
Mod Maniac
I merged the thread for you. :doorag: I really just wanted to see how that worked.
Thanks. That was easy << for me >>. :clap::2thumbs::yikes:
:clap:
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There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Now mine....
- Thread starter ataDude
- Start date
Thanks. That was easy << for me >>. :clap::2thumbs::yikes:
:clap:Rotaxrocket
New member
Does your driving lights stay on all the time or do you have a switch mounted? Looks great. I will probably mount some on mine. Great idea.......
ataDude
Mod Maniac
There's a switch in the black plastic shroud just beneath and to the left of the instrument cluster. Left side is always better for switches and the like as your right hand is busy with the throttle.
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Rotaxrocket
New member
You are so right......Thanks for the reply.....:2thumbs:
retread
New member
I sit here and take notes, do comparisons, choose what I want, buy the stuff and add it to the shelves to keep cabin fever away this winter. (if I'm busy, I don't notice the snow and ice). I'm beginning to womder if I can afford all the things I'm finding. Ah, well, told the kids my will reads "being of sound mind and body, I spent it, go make your own!"
jeuchler
New member
...easy, 30 minute install... maybe a little on the loud side... but sounds so much better. The photo flash makes the black look purple... but it's not. Magic Man rocks. :2thumbs:
Hey, ataDude, stop posting photos of my Spyder!
Oh, wait. It can't be my ride--the garage is clean... :joke:
(Looks, sounds, and performs great, doesn't it?!) :thumbup:
SpydeeBite2
New member
My wife and I are new here. Our spyder is on order. This is good stuff. Please keep posting.:shocked:
bjt
Very Helpful Member
welcome:cheers:
Magic Man
Registered User
...easy, 30 minute install... maybe a little on the loud side... but sounds so much better. The photo flash makes the black look purple... but it's not. Magic Man rocks. :2thumbs:
Looking good! :clap: :doorag: :2thumbs:
MM
Did you cut the grips shorter?This is a standard Yamaha-fit throttle lock carved down to fit the Spyder. The Spyder's throttle sleeve has a ridge under the rubber which also must be filed off. I may install an AudioVox cruise unit later... none of these mods inflict permanent changes which are meaningful.
Did I say that I dislike the "universal" throttle locks with the ugly (IMHO) bar running across the top in plain view?
The Grip Puppies assist in softening and enlarging the grips for comfort. All were "in stock" from other bike mods. I'll use these until I decide what to do for heated grips. They are, however, a "bear" to install even using soap and water.
ataDude
Mod Maniac
No, sir....just removed the grip while I was installing the throttle lock (had to drill and tap one 6-32 hole) and then reinstalled to fit.
.
ataDude
Mod Maniac
Unfortunately, no. I've had them for 3-4 years - originally bought for an ST-1300.
Sorry.
.
ataDude
Mod Maniac
Kewl Metal's Bars
I just installed the Kewl Metal bar set, including the black billet center piece with silver web. This thing is a work of art!
The install took about three hours... that included a half a pack of Pall Malls Light 100s and three or four sit-down water breaks. It could probably be done in an hour and a half to two hours... but that wouldn't be fun for me.
On a scale of 1 - 10 (10 being most difficult) this is a "5" installation. Most of the time is used in removing the stock stuff ... just like a 1" riser install. The instructions were clear and concise but even so, I had some trouble in removing and reinstalling the plastic key trim. Sometimes I don't read as thoroughly as I should.
pps:
I also used the 5" rise handlebars from Kewl Metal. I was hoping for at least two inches of pull-back and I got it plus a little. The riding position is more upright but not overtly so... just enough for the elbows to slightly bend. For me, this pull-back was very necessary to eliminate the "ax-in-the-shoulder-blades" which usually started after about 150 miles.
Update: I also bought the 7" bars to see the difference. I like the 7" ones even better!
One thing was missing... the stock plastic switch assemblies (both clutch and throttle sides) have a round protrusion on the inside that mate to holes in the stock handlebars. The new bars do not have those alignment holes. You have two choices... drill the holes (one on each side) or grind the plastic protrusion down. I did the latter. You can do either... don't gripe at me.... I'm lazy... and I'm fully cognizant of what I did. I may go back and "pin" the throttle side for safety sake. The clutch side assembly, however, is not connected to the grip... I used HT RTV to reinstall the grip.
IMPORTANT UPDATE: Do NOT grind the plastic protrusion off on the throttle side switch assembly like I mentioned above.... I suggest you drill the hole in the handlebars to match your final mounting location. After further testing today, the entire switch assembly and throttle could slide slide off the bar with enough force... like a high-G curve where you really push it. As Honda says, "Stupid hurts." I wound up opening the switch assembly, marking an appropriate spot, and drilling/tapping a small hidden hole for a "stop bolt" that the assembly will slide against... and stop.
The existing tapped mounting holes on the both sides of the billet center piece were re-tapped by me to 1/4"x20 threads for use of the RAM mount balls. Unfortunately, I only had one 1/4" RAM ball but several 3/8" RAM balls. :shocked: The Valentine One radar detector is mounted on the right. The GPS will be on the left once I get another RAM ball or three. There are also tapped holes on the bottom of the billet piece for more goodies.
The only casualty of the day was my left Grip Puppy. I accidentally ripped it right down the middle when removing the left grip.
Finally, the existing wiring loom is plenty long enough on both sides. The clutch hydraulic line is long enough as well. I did, however, remove the throttle cables from a small frame clip to allow more "slop" for them.
Would I do it again? You can bet your bippy (click here for bippy definition) I would! :clap::clap::clap::2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs:
I just installed the Kewl Metal bar set, including the black billet center piece with silver web. This thing is a work of art!
The install took about three hours... that included a half a pack of Pall Malls Light 100s and three or four sit-down water breaks. It could probably be done in an hour and a half to two hours... but that wouldn't be fun for me.
On a scale of 1 - 10 (10 being most difficult) this is a "5" installation. Most of the time is used in removing the stock stuff ... just like a 1" riser install. The instructions were clear and concise but even so, I had some trouble in removing and reinstalling the plastic key trim. Sometimes I don't read as thoroughly as I should.
pps:I also used the 5" rise handlebars from Kewl Metal. I was hoping for at least two inches of pull-back and I got it plus a little. The riding position is more upright but not overtly so... just enough for the elbows to slightly bend. For me, this pull-back was very necessary to eliminate the "ax-in-the-shoulder-blades" which usually started after about 150 miles.
Update: I also bought the 7" bars to see the difference. I like the 7" ones even better!
One thing was missing... the stock plastic switch assemblies (both clutch and throttle sides) have a round protrusion on the inside that mate to holes in the stock handlebars. The new bars do not have those alignment holes. You have two choices... drill the holes (one on each side) or grind the plastic protrusion down. I did the latter. You can do either... don't gripe at me.... I'm lazy... and I'm fully cognizant of what I did. I may go back and "pin" the throttle side for safety sake. The clutch side assembly, however, is not connected to the grip... I used HT RTV to reinstall the grip.
IMPORTANT UPDATE: Do NOT grind the plastic protrusion off on the throttle side switch assembly like I mentioned above.... I suggest you drill the hole in the handlebars to match your final mounting location. After further testing today, the entire switch assembly and throttle could slide slide off the bar with enough force... like a high-G curve where you really push it. As Honda says, "Stupid hurts." I wound up opening the switch assembly, marking an appropriate spot, and drilling/tapping a small hidden hole for a "stop bolt" that the assembly will slide against... and stop.
The existing tapped mounting holes on the both sides of the billet center piece were re-tapped by me to 1/4"x20 threads for use of the RAM mount balls. Unfortunately, I only had one 1/4" RAM ball but several 3/8" RAM balls. :shocked: The Valentine One radar detector is mounted on the right. The GPS will be on the left once I get another RAM ball or three. There are also tapped holes on the bottom of the billet piece for more goodies.
The only casualty of the day was my left Grip Puppy. I accidentally ripped it right down the middle when removing the left grip.
Finally, the existing wiring loom is plenty long enough on both sides. The clutch hydraulic line is long enough as well. I did, however, remove the throttle cables from a small frame clip to allow more "slop" for them.
Would I do it again? You can bet your bippy (click here for bippy definition) I would! :clap::clap::clap::2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs:
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Looks nice to say the least.
I assume that you could get more pullback - if needed - if you rotated the bars more?
Are you saying that your hands are 2+ inches further back than stock?
I assume there is more rise than stock - if so - how much?
Any interference with the view in the mirrors?
Thanks,
Pete
I assume that you could get more pullback - if needed - if you rotated the bars more?
Are you saying that your hands are 2+ inches further back than stock?
I assume there is more rise than stock - if so - how much?
Any interference with the view in the mirrors?
Thanks,
Pete
ataDude
Mod Maniac
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ataDude
Mod Maniac
Corbin seat.....
My opinions:
THE GOOD
The seats come very well packed in a very large box with extensive molded foam surrounding all of the pieces. I think it would be next to impossible for the shipping companies to damage the product in transit.
As usual, the leather upholstery and overall appearance are excellent. The seat makes striking statements... "LEATHER" and "EXPENSIVE". And, it seems comfortable although I won't be able to test / ride until Saturday.
The foam <used on these seats> appears to be somewhat different from that used on the five or six Corbin seats I've had in the past (I still have one on the Valkyrie). It seems to be a little softer, a little more compliant.
The backrest (I only ordered one) seems to be what I was looking for to provide some support for my beat-up back. <<If not, I'll go to my "stock" of older Corbin backrests and find one that does the job
>> It is adjustable (tilt forward/backward, but not up/down) with an Allen-head set screw. Combined with the Kewl Metal handlebar setup, I think the ride position and comfort will allow for extended rides without too many complaints.
The rear seat bolted right up without problems except for one minor adjustment to the latch pin. The transfer of the rear seat passenger sensor from the stock to the Corbin was easy. See the next section for the front seat.
I did not hook up the electric seat heater, yet. It will be a simple wiring job once the left panel is removed... I already have a fused connection waiting for it in the proper place. I just didn't have the time, today, to remove the panel and finish wiring it. For those who are not familiar with the Corbin heated seat, it has a built-in switch embedded in the seat's left side.
The step-by-step printed installation instructions were adequate.
THE BAD
The four-page step-by-step instructions' pictures were not good... appeared to be copies of copies... making it difficult to view the details. You'd think that for $900+, a nice printed (color?) set of instructions would be provided. However, a good imagination helps.
The front seat's alignment was difficult, at best. The two elongated holes/slots used for the main mounting (at the rear of the seat) were all-the-way forward on one, and all-the-way rearward on the other... with no reserve adjustment available. In other words, I was at the absolute limits for installation without pulling out the die grinder and performing a little "surgery". I can see now why Lamont had a difficult time with his install. See http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5776
As others have already said, forget about re-installing the stock hydraulic seat riser... it is strong enough to torque the seat out of alignment (once you get it there) by 1/4 - 3/8". I gave it three attempts... then taped the riser to the stock seat for box storage.
THE UGLY
I have been an avid Corbin fan for a while now, BUT... if I ever opt for another Corbin product, I will order it from a dealer to avoid having to deal directly with Corbin. When I called Corbin, I was immediately asked whether I was a "dealer" or a "rider" before they transferred the calls. What's with that? Are there different / higher priorities for dealers or...?
I hope dealers get better attention and information than I and some others here received... read on. See http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6034&highlight=Corbin+seat+owners for more information. You can draw your own conclusions...some good reports, some bad. It's sporadic, at best.
The Corbin "factory" is in California... "rider" customer service apparently is on the east coast... four time zones apart. When you call, the c/s rep has to contact the factory (by phone or email) and wait for a reply. In my case, I had two excellent c/s reps (thanks J.R. and Sergio!) to help but... they were at the mercy of the factory in terms of timely and accurate information. On at least two occasions, it appeared that the factory reps actually reported incorrect information. On another, the c/s rep could not even get a call back from the "factory" until the next afternoon.
In my opinion, if you have to order a seat, take the time-frame they tell you and add about three weeks to the estimated receipt time. In other words, based on my experience, if they say "five weeks", expect eight weeks and then you won't be disappointed... you might even be pleasantly surprised. Just to be safe, don't plan any trips based on the original date.
My payment was deducted from my credit card when the order was placed... not when the seat was complete or shipped. That's a little unusual for a company this size.
In addition, cash or credit refunds are not provided under any circumstances, according to the "invoice" I received with the seat... exactly eight weeks from order.
My opinions:
THE GOOD
The seats come very well packed in a very large box with extensive molded foam surrounding all of the pieces. I think it would be next to impossible for the shipping companies to damage the product in transit.
As usual, the leather upholstery and overall appearance are excellent. The seat makes striking statements... "LEATHER" and "EXPENSIVE". And, it seems comfortable although I won't be able to test / ride until Saturday.
The foam <used on these seats> appears to be somewhat different from that used on the five or six Corbin seats I've had in the past (I still have one on the Valkyrie). It seems to be a little softer, a little more compliant.
The backrest (I only ordered one) seems to be what I was looking for to provide some support for my beat-up back. <<If not, I'll go to my "stock" of older Corbin backrests and find one that does the job
>> It is adjustable (tilt forward/backward, but not up/down) with an Allen-head set screw. Combined with the Kewl Metal handlebar setup, I think the ride position and comfort will allow for extended rides without too many complaints.The rear seat bolted right up without problems except for one minor adjustment to the latch pin. The transfer of the rear seat passenger sensor from the stock to the Corbin was easy. See the next section for the front seat.
I did not hook up the electric seat heater, yet. It will be a simple wiring job once the left panel is removed... I already have a fused connection waiting for it in the proper place. I just didn't have the time, today, to remove the panel and finish wiring it. For those who are not familiar with the Corbin heated seat, it has a built-in switch embedded in the seat's left side.
The step-by-step printed installation instructions were adequate.
THE BAD
The four-page step-by-step instructions' pictures were not good... appeared to be copies of copies... making it difficult to view the details. You'd think that for $900+, a nice printed (color?) set of instructions would be provided. However, a good imagination helps.
The front seat's alignment was difficult, at best. The two elongated holes/slots used for the main mounting (at the rear of the seat) were all-the-way forward on one, and all-the-way rearward on the other... with no reserve adjustment available. In other words, I was at the absolute limits for installation without pulling out the die grinder and performing a little "surgery". I can see now why Lamont had a difficult time with his install. See http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5776
As others have already said, forget about re-installing the stock hydraulic seat riser... it is strong enough to torque the seat out of alignment (once you get it there) by 1/4 - 3/8". I gave it three attempts... then taped the riser to the stock seat for box storage.
THE UGLY
I have been an avid Corbin fan for a while now, BUT... if I ever opt for another Corbin product, I will order it from a dealer to avoid having to deal directly with Corbin. When I called Corbin, I was immediately asked whether I was a "dealer" or a "rider" before they transferred the calls. What's with that? Are there different / higher priorities for dealers or...?
I hope dealers get better attention and information than I and some others here received... read on. See http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6034&highlight=Corbin+seat+owners for more information. You can draw your own conclusions...some good reports, some bad. It's sporadic, at best.
The Corbin "factory" is in California... "rider" customer service apparently is on the east coast... four time zones apart. When you call, the c/s rep has to contact the factory (by phone or email) and wait for a reply. In my case, I had two excellent c/s reps (thanks J.R. and Sergio!) to help but... they were at the mercy of the factory in terms of timely and accurate information. On at least two occasions, it appeared that the factory reps actually reported incorrect information. On another, the c/s rep could not even get a call back from the "factory" until the next afternoon.
In my opinion, if you have to order a seat, take the time-frame they tell you and add about three weeks to the estimated receipt time. In other words, based on my experience, if they say "five weeks", expect eight weeks and then you won't be disappointed... you might even be pleasantly surprised. Just to be safe, don't plan any trips based on the original date.
My payment was deducted from my credit card when the order was placed... not when the seat was complete or shipped. That's a little unusual for a company this size.
In addition, cash or credit refunds are not provided under any circumstances, according to the "invoice" I received with the seat... exactly eight weeks from order.
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bjt
Very Helpful Member
Not sure how they did things in the past but Corbin is obviously dropping the ball in all aspects of the seat. Poor or erratic fit (DaddyDarko said his went on just fine), customer service is not efficient, long or misrepresented shipping times. Though the seat looks great installed on your Spyder, your report, along with the price, has virtually eliminated Corbin from my 'wanted mods' list.
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