best oil?

[BLACK WIDOW]

OIL

I use the Rotella full syn.
I noticed that the new Rotella T6 full syn is now JASO DH-2 MA certified!

Rotella T6 link

I just don't understand how a oil can be API certified "SM" and also JASO MA. Since the SM rating requires friction modifiers that aren't recommender for wet clutches. Almost a oxymoron in the scheme of oil ratings.:dontknow:

 

[mxz600]

I use the BRP blend because that is what BRP recommends, and they must do so for a reason. If I have engine failure due to oil I don't want to be second guessing myself. I have always used BRP oil in all my sleds without incident.
For the conspiracy theorists out there, BRP didn't stop making the synthetic to save them money or because the blend works better in some of their other machines. BRP has a lot of different oils for a lot of different machines and climates.
BRP oils: 2 stroke for water & snow use the same Mineral & Synthetic Blend. The full Synthetic is a different part# for water and snow.:dontknow:
4 stroke for snow uses Full Synthetic and for water uses Synthetic Blend.
Can-am ATVs and Spyders both list the Synthetic Blend used in the watercraft for summer or the 4 stroke Full Synthetic used in snowmobiles for all climate (cold weather). If you really want to use full synthetic in your Spyder, BRP has it. It's just disguised as 4 stroke snowmobile oil.

 

[Latemarch]

I just don't understand how a oil can be API certified "SM" and also JASO MA. Since the SM rating requires friction modifiers that aren't recommender for wet clutches. Almost a oxymoron in the scheme of oil ratings.:dontknow:

SM just means that the oil meets requirements for enhanced fuel efficiency.
The auto oil group adds friction modifiers (cheap way to meet the standard).
The diesel oil group doesn't add friction modifiers yet both meet the standard.

As I understand it Rotella originally couldn't meet JASO because of the ash content being slightly above JASO limit, but now they meet that as well.

 

[NancysToy]

I use the BRP blend because that is what BRP recommends, and they must do so for a reason. .....

Actually, they don't for the 2008 and 2009 machines. They specify a full synthetic 5W-40 motorcycle oil. They never issued a service bulletin with a revised spec when they introduced their new oil. They just quietly slipped it in place. The 2010 machines, at least the RT, specify either a full synthetic or a blend.

 

[bone crusher]

I use the BRP blend because that is what BRP recommends, and they must do so for a reason. If I have engine failure due to oil I don't want to be second guessing myself. I have always used BRP oil in all my sleds without incident.
For the conspiracy theorists out there, BRP didn't stop making the synthetic to save them money or because the blend works better in some of their other machines. BRP has a lot of different oils for a lot of different machines and climates.
BRP oils: 2 stroke for water & snow use the same Mineral & Synthetic Blend. The full Synthetic is a different part# for water and snow.:dontknow:
4 stroke for snow uses Full Synthetic and for water uses Synthetic Blend.
Can-am ATVs and Spyders both list the Synthetic Blend used in the watercraft for summer or the 4 stroke Full Synthetic used in snowmobiles for all climate (cold weather). If you really want to use full synthetic in your Spyder, BRP has it. It's just disguised as 4 stroke snowmobile oil.

:agree: good post!

 

[NancysToy]

..... The oil change is easy, do you have a service manual?

Shouldn't be necessary. The same procedure (and pictures) are included in the Owner's Guide. Good tutorial in the How-To section here, too.

 

[widowmaker2011]

I wish we could just go back to the good old days and have discussions about which 2 stroke pre-mix oil SMELLS best.. ahhhhh the smell of burnt Klotz mixed 40:1 with 110 octane in the morning... makes a man want to live............ :chat:

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

OIL

I use the BRP blend because that is what BRP recommends, and they must do so for a reason. If I have engine failure due to oil I don't want to be second guessing myself. I have always used BRP oil in all my sleds without incident.
For the conspiracy theorists out there, BRP didn't stop making the synthetic to save them money or because the blend works better in some of their other machines. BRP has a lot of different oils for a lot of different machines and climates.
BRP oils: 2 stroke for water & snow use the same Mineral & Synthetic Blend. The full Synthetic is a different part# for water and snow.:dontknow:
4 stroke for snow uses Full Synthetic and for water uses Synthetic Blend.
Can-am ATVs and Spyders both list the Synthetic Blend used in the watercraft for summer or the 4 stroke Full Synthetic used in snowmobiles for all climate (cold weather). If you really want to use full synthetic in your Spyder, BRP has it. It's just disguised as 4 stroke snowmobile oil.

Conspiracy?--Maybe highway robery would be more fitting. To sell a cheap blended oil at a premium group 4 synthetic price is exactly that.:f_spider:

 

[NancysToy]

Good points, Scotty. I guess you wouldn't need the service manual if you stick with very basic service, but it's a lifesaver if you need more detailed information.

:agree:

 

[wukka]

Actually, they don't for the 2008 and 2009 machines. They specify a full synthetic 5W-40 motorcycle oil. They never issued a service bulletin with a revised spec when they introduced their new oil.

BINGO!

The owners manual states "Use BRP XP-S 5W40 synthetic oil..." When BRP changes the formula to a blend, I'm going with "MOM" and using another brand that is synthetic and matches or exceeds the specifications.

I'm not arguing the why's and what-for's to BRP making the change to the recipe - I'm just going with what's best for my bike, and according to "MOM."

 

[bone crusher]

BINGO!

The owners manual states "Use BRP XP-S 5W40 synthetic oil..." When BRP changes the formula to a blend, I'm going with "MOM" and using another brand that is synthetic and matches or exceeds the specifications.

I'm not arguing the why's and what-for's to BRP making the change to the recipe - I'm just going with what's best for my bike, and according to "MOM."

What if BRP changed due to some problem or questionable issue? Are they not allowed to change things once they're in print? I think this discussion is getting a little stale...I'm sure either works just fine...synthetic if you want to go 10k between oil changes...either for recommended change intervals...

 

[NancysToy]

I wouldn't stretch oil changes to 10k with oil that also lubes my tranny and abrasive clutch discs.....

:agree:

 

[BRPjunkie]

BRP switched their XPS oil from a full synthetic to a "blend" for two reasons.....first the full synthetic was not compatible with the ceramic clutches (since switched to metal ) found in the supercharged engines used in some models of their Sea-doo line. The blend oil can be used in all the BRP 4-stroke engines, including both NA and supercharged and including the Spyder, without problems. The second reason was $$ savings. Blends cost less than a full synthetic, but did BRP lower the price charged for the oil?

Actually, any synthetic motorcycle oil specified for "wet clutch" (JASO MA rating) use is safe to use in a supercharged Sea-doo as well as in the Spyder, yet the fully synthetic XPS oil was not to be used in the SC engine. This leads me to believe that oil was not the best choice for the Spyder's wet clutch either.
This might be a possible 3rd reason for BRP to now specify their blended partial synthetic for the Spyder.

Once BRP had to blame the Sea Doo failures on their syn oil, it became a dog. Dealers and owners switched to other synthetics and many started using blends. PWC engines don't get nearly the hours that road bikes get and blends seemed to work just fine with annual oil changes on relatively few hours. Spyder did not have the super charged Rotax or clutch design and BRP opted for the short 3,000 mile interval which is very short for syn oil. While I'm still a full syn fan, if you adhere to the 3,000 mile interval, most syn blends will probably do just fine as long as they are wet clutch compatible. While I also still like the 5W - 40 instead of 10W- 40, that's just me. Probably more crucial to engine life than syn blend vrs full syn and 5W - 40 vrs 10W - 40 is the need to warm up the Spyder a few minutes before taking off.

 

[mxz600]

What if BRP changed due to some problem or questionable issue? Are they not allowed to change things once they're in print? I think this discussion is getting a little stale...I'm sure either works just fine...synthetic if you want to go 10k between oil changes...either for recommended change intervals...

:agree: except for the 10,000 mile between oil changes for synthetic.
I've always used the regular Harley oil (not the synthetic) in my Sporty. Harley recommends either or. I'm not sure it really matters if you keep up on oil changes, and most of your riding isn't in extreme conditions.

 

[dltang]

Once BRP had to blame the Sea Doo failures on their syn oil, it became a dog. Dealers and owners switched to other synthetics and many started using blends. PWC engines don't get nearly the hours that road bikes get and blends seemed to work just fine with annual oil changes on relatively few hours. Spyder did not have the super charged Rotax or clutch design and BRP opted for the short 3,000 mile interval which is very short for syn oil. While I'm still a full syn fan, if you adhere to the 3,000 mile interval, most syn blends will probably do just fine as long as they are wet clutch compatible. While I also still like the 5W - 40 instead of 10W- 40, that's just me. Probably more crucial to engine life than syn blend vrs full syn and 5W - 40 vrs 10W - 40 is the need to warm up the Spyder a few minutes before taking off.

I'm getting ready to do my first oil change since my engine rebuild and I am going to give this a try.

 

[NancysToy]

I'm getting ready to do my first oil change since my engine rebuild and I am going to give this a try.

Deb, do you have a source for it over your way? I can't find it around here, and nobody can order it special.

 

[dltang]

Deb, do you have a source for it over your way? I can't find it around here, and nobody can order it special.

You can find it here, Scotty...

http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=CAS_12904_G

Scotty,
I haven't checked locally yet, plan on doing that this weekend. Did find it on line here http://www.motodepot.com/product_detail.php?cid=191&sku=3330 and also checked out the site Lou posted. With shipping to my house, the motodepot is just a couple dollars cheaper for 5 liters. I'll let you know after my search this weekend if we have anything and if I can find it any cheaper. With shipping it is right about $12 a liter.

 

[retired1]

Oil

The pallets that my dealer gets his BRP oil on are stamped Castrol.

 

[bone crusher]

I wouldn't stretch oil changes to 10k with oil that also lubes my tranny and abrasive clutch discs.....

HDX,

Oh no...I wasn't suggesting 10k...I was just stating that if you use blended or synthetic and get the oil changed every 3k miles, it doesn't matter...only if you really wanted to push it to 10k, which would be foolish, would you want to use synthetic...not worth it though...

 

[groundeffect]

I am planning on my first oil change and was wondering what type of oil is best I saw royal purple 10w40 and I also heard of a type called redline also is there another type of filter besides the brp factory one? Any other tips for my first oil change would be appreciated, dont want to screw anything up!

I use the stock BRP recommend oil from the owner's manual.

Hope that helps.