best oil?

[Roadkill]

AMSOIL

+I'm a long-time T-1 certified AMSOIL dealer.

If anyone's interested, I'll extend an offer to any member for sale to you shipped to your door at my dealer cost. Just tell me what you need, provide a zip code, and I'll e-mail you an estimate.

You can enter my AMSOIL page (& find the updated Motorcycle Oils White Paper) from my Roadkill Online site, but for the discount, you need to e-mail me directly.
http://www.roadkillonline.net/

Ride on.
Roadkill
http://www.roadkillonline.net/imagedb_images/35_10125.JPG

 

[aka1004]

Except for the 5W-40 part. Here we go again. :dontknow: Changing the oil every 3,000 miles, maintaining the proper oil level and warming the engine before riding are more critical to engine life than which oil you use.

i live in vegas so i probably don't need to worry about 5W part but how cold is too cold for 10w?
we are at about 50 degrees at the coldest part of WINTER with very few colder days.

 

[M2Wild]

+I'm a long-time T-1 certified AMSOIL dealer.

If anyone's interested, I'll extend an offer to any member for sale to you shipped to your door at my dealer cost. Just tell me what you need, provide a zip code, and I'll e-mail you an estimate.

Sweet. Can't get much better deal than that.

 

[BRPjunkie]

i live in vegas so i probably don't need to worry about 5W part but how cold is too cold for 10w?
we are at about 50 degrees at the coldest part of WINTER with very few colder days.

I think the 5W part was the BRP bias towards their Canadian climate. For those in the Northern states who ride in the winter it may help to use 5W, but in Nevada 10W will be fine. My dealer said that even though the syn blend oils do not have viscosity labels, the winter blend was 5W and the summer was 10W. They are using the summer blend even in Michigan. I bought his remaining stock of the old BRP full syn 5W-40 so I'm good for a couple more oil changes. Oil discussions are like mixing oil and water; you just can't ever get them together.

 

[Pilo]

In the Tropics...

I think the 5W part was the BRP bias towards their Canadian climate. For those in the Northern states who ride in the winter it may help to use 5W, but in Nevada 10W will be fine. My dealer said that even though the syn blend oils do not have viscosity labels, the winter blend was 5W and the summer was 10W. They are using the summer blend even in Michigan. I bought his remaining stock of the old BRP full syn 5W-40 so I'm good for a couple more oil changes. Oil discussions are like mixing oil and water; you just can't ever get them together.

Temperatures here in Venezuela average 95-100°F year-round.
I have asked local people who supposedly know about oils, on changing from 5 to 10 or even 15W-40.
Their argument is that the time of most wear on an engine is when it gets started cold, and that the thinner oil takes less time to get pumped up and lubricate upper engine parts...

I still don't buy it... I would feel more comfortable using a thicker oil...

I am still using Shell Rotella Full-Sintetic 5W-40, as per BRP recommendations... :dontknow:

Saludos, Pilo

 

[aka1004]

i just read or skim thru white paper report by amsoil and i am intrigued.
i shall try amsoil on next oil change.

 

[BajaRon]

Temperatures here in Venezuela average 95-100°F year-round.
I have asked local people who supposedly know about oils, on changing from 5 to 10 or even 15W-40.
Their argument is that the time of most wear on an engine is when it gets started cold, and that the thinner oil takes less time to get pumped up and lubricate upper engine parts...

I still don't buy it... I would feel more comfortable using a thicker oil...

I am still using Shell Rotella Full-Sintetic 5W-40, as per BRP recommendations... :dontknow:

Saludos, Pilo

Lower viscosity oil does pump to extremities quicker but that is not the whole story. Higher viscosity will leave a thicker film on parts between starts giving you better zero oil pressure protection.

A full synthetic oil will leave a better lubricating film on all parts than standard oil.

At start-up and idle there is very little pressure on components (as long as you don't rev it up) so it doesn't take a lot of lubricant to keep from getting metal to metal contact.

Because a motorcycle engine is very compact the oil pump has much less distance to pump oil than say a V6, V8 or even an inline 4 automotive engine.

The biggest problem is at oil changes. This is the longest your engine will run without oil pressure regardless of what viscosity you use.

Another issue is the transmission. In automotive applications the engine oil is not asked to also lubricate transmission gears. Transmision gears crush oil in ways that other moving parts in an engine never do. A higher viscosity and a full synthetic oil will not only protect against metal to metal gear contact but also resist the negative effects of this crushing action.

I do not think it is a bad idea to go with a bit heavier viscosity in a motorcycle, especially where temps are consistantly above 70 degrees. 15w 40 is certainly a good way to go.

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

Oil

Lower viscosity oil does pump to extremities quicker but that is not the whole story. Higher viscosity will leave a thicker film on parts between starts giving you better zero oil pressure protection.

A full synthetic oil will leave a better lubricating film on all parts than standard oil.

At start-up and idle there is very little pressure on components (as long as you don't rev it up) so it doesn't take a lot of lubricant to keep from getting metal to metal contact.

Because a motorcycle engine is very compact the oil pump has much less distance to pump oil than say a V6, V8 or even an inline 4 automotive engine.

The biggest problem is at oil changes. This is the longest your engine will run without oil pressure regardless of what viscosity you use.

Another issue is the transmission. In automotive applications the engine oil is not asked to also lubricate transmission gears. Transmision gears crush oil in ways that other moving parts in an engine never do. A higher viscosity and a full synthetic oil will not only protect against metal to metal gear contact but also resist the negative effects of this crushing action.

I do not think it is a bad idea to go with a bit heavier viscosity in a motorcycle, especially where temps are consistantly above 70 degrees. 15w 40 is certainly a good way to go.

Not only is it not a bad idea, but a GOOD idea.:thumbup:

 

[BajaRon]

Not only is it not a bad idea, but a GOOD idea.:thumbup:

I was trying to be Politically Correct! Guess I need to work on that.... :dontknow:

 

[horse171]

diy to save $

I use brp oi/filters/washers etc. My dealer sels me the oil "bulk" ( a small saving). My biggest saving is actually performing the maintenance myself. Peace of mind regarding choice of oil/warrenty issues etc makes the higher cost of brp oil a little more acceptable.

 

[Dudley]

I started using Royal Purple 10W40 Synthetic Motorcycle oil at 5000 miles. When we took out trip last summer, we drove over 14,000 miles before another oil change...added a total of 2 quarts. RP Motorcycle oil being hard to find on a shelf, I call RP and talked to a tech who said it would do no harm to add 10W40 automotive oil because RP does not use anything in their oils that would hurt a wet clutch. He asked me if I had a liquid or air cooled engine. When I said liquid he asked me why I was using the motorcycle oil unless I just liked to spend money. He told me the motorcycle oil has the extra additives for "air cooled" engines that are not needed for liquid cool. So, at 26,000 miles I changed to RP Automotive 10W40 and at 43,000 miles it is still running great...no transmission problems. At 50,000 miles I plan on changing to 20W50.

 

[Full.Of.Fun]

we are suppose to use the brp blend oil you showed above in the warmer weather - then in the winter switch to the yellow bottle of BRP full synthetic in winter. Also isn't there a difference between fully synthetic, pure synthetic and 100% synthetic oils?

 

[Dudley]

we are suppose to use the brp blend oil you showed above in the warmer weather - then in the winter switch to the yellow bottle of BRP full synthetic in winter. Also isn't there a difference between fully synthetic, pure synthetic and 100% synthetic oils?

You are correct. I have just never done it. The debate on oils is like debating the goods and bads in politics. Everyone says he or she is correct. In the end, it's your decision.

 

[NancysToy]

we are suppose to use the brp blend oil you showed above in the warmer weather - then in the winter switch to the yellow bottle of BRP full synthetic in winter. Also isn't there a difference between fully synthetic, pure synthetic and 100% synthetic oils?

The only BRP oil specified for the Spyder is the Synthetic Blend (Summer Weight). 5W-40 synthetic blend or full synthetic oils, meeting API service SL, SJ, SH, or SG ratings (but not SM or ILSAC GF-4 classifications) are also specified. Use of the winter weight oil does not meet BRP Spyder specs, it is too light, and is not adviseable, IMO

 

[clueless]

people wanting a higher (thicker) weight oil should be looking at the 2nd number NOT the first.

the first ie 5W is the initial weight when warmed up the 2nd number 40 is what it operates at from what I understand.

so you would want a 50 weight like 10W50 or 5W50 if you wanted more protections in hot temp areas.

I still am in the camp of using 5 W 40 to keep the startup low viscosity like mentioned earlier during startup. better then 10W40 and after operating temp they should be the same weight so 5 W 40 is a win win compared to 10W40.

I am going to use the MOTUL full synth 5W40. good Stuff :2thumbs:

i would use Mobile 1 if they had 5W40 oil. I use Mobile 1 Vtwin for the Harley and heavy gear oil for the transmission but there I can use two different oils on that bike.

 

[Campverdefela]

people wanting a higher (thicker) weight oil should be looking at the 2nd number NOT the first.

the first ie 5W is the initial weight when warmed up the 2nd number 40 is what it operates at from what I understand.

so you would want a 50 weight like 10W50 or 5W50 if you wanted more protections in hot temp areas.

I still am in the camp of using 5 W 40 to keep the startup low viscosity like mentioned earlier during startup. better then 10W40 and after operating temp they should be the same weight so 5 W 40 is a win win compared to 10W40.

I am going to use the MOTUL full synth 5W40. good Stuff :2thumbs:

i would use Mobile 1 if they had 5W40 oil. I use Mobile 1 Vtwin for the Harley and heavy gear oil for the transmission but there I can use two different oils on that bike.

I too am using Motul starting with the next change. I figure that if as some on this thread use pretty much a good oil with great results but they are putting on a lot of highway miles and I know that is earier on the engine and oil so not too critical, however my miles are short trips and runs, a lot of stop and go so Motul is my oil as it is rated one of the best if not the best besides which I'm only doing about one change a year,5000mi at best. I can afford it!

 

[SpyderGirl]

The "W" actually stands for winter. 5W30 is a multi viscosity oil. It acts like both 30 weight in warm weather, and 5 weight oil in cold weather. :doorag:

It all depends on where you live and what the temperatures are like. Where I live in California I can run 5W40 SYN all year long.

 

[beanoil]

I agree with the comment about the 2 different oil tribes mentioned previously. And while I've used a boat load of Rotella in the past in many different wet clutch, shared sump bikes, bottom line, any oil with a wide viscosity spread (like a 5w40) will shear down faster than a more narrow viscosity spread (like a 15w40). Obviously BRP has tested a 5w40 oil in the equipment, and has found an acceptable performance level over their recommended interval of 3000 miles. I think any of the major brands you'll find (Castrol, Shell Rotella, in 5w40, or AmSoil, Mobil in the 10w40 flavor) will be provide acceptable performance in the Spyder. Don't overlook Elf 5w40, and Brad-Penn in the 10w40 ranges. Both are reasonably priced, and available mail order. The Brad-Penn is 100% USA made, and in my experience is very shear stable, holding a 40 weight grade for longer than Rotella. I have no personal experience with Elf, but think I'll give it a whirl in the RTS I just took delivery of. Only a used oil analysis will tell an accurate tale of any oils performance.

http://www.totaloil.com.au/Pages/content/NT0000C746.pdf
http://www.penngrade1.com/Products/Motor-Oils/SAE-10W40.aspx

 

[Pappy John]

Y'know.... it's kind of a tradition for new members to dredge up dead threads from the past. I've noticed it not only here, but on several different sites covering a vast area of different interests. I wonder why that is.

Anyway, I'm not really trying to bust chops here.... just noting something I find interesting.

Welcome aboard, beanoil. This is a great site, and I'm sure you'll be an asset to the community.

..and Amsoil, for the win!

 

[coz]

welcome mr beanoil

we were about due for another oil discussion.:roflblack: